Englander EP 25 OverFeed Problem

Came here seeking advice.
I purchased a used EP-25 manufactured 9/2009. Installed it. I'm in a high altitude area, so I vented it through the wall with 4" pipe (just ove 5000 feet). Have the outside air kit. Have a 45 inside to 90 outside with a cleanout. I have cleaned the inside of the stove. (Beat the back wall with a sledge hammer as directed), Replaced the door and the ash pan (thought they might not be fitting tightly), Replaced the gasket on the combustion blower. Replaced the gasket on the hopper lid. Had tech support at Englander walk me through the reset on the board to factory setting. The fire is not what I would call lazy (I don't get soot all over the glass until shutdown), the flames are reaching the top of the firebox. This is a new installation, but I did recheck every stick of pipe in or out for some sort of blockage and found none.

The darn thing overfeeds in 30 minutes on feed rate 1. I have tried two different types of pellets. I'm at a loss as to what to do.
Anyone have a similar issue and get it resolved? If so How?

I saw a couple of ideas on here and thought I might see what others thought.
I saw somthing about using some steel wool to block some holes in the burn pot. Has this worked for anyone? Is there a danger here?
I read someone saying that they were going to add a rheostat to the feed rate to turn it down - but they didn't follow up so I dont' know how it turned out.

I really need to have it run longer and to kick out more heat. I'm in the dog house with the wife ( you can hear it right - you bought the ### thing, and can't make it work - I should have let my dad take care of it. You bought what for it now? Replace one more part and we could have had two new stoves that actally work. etc.)

So any assistance would be highly valuable.

Thanks

JW

[quote author="SmokeyTheBear" date="1325012451"]Can you post a picture of the burn pot so we can see if there is daylight between the liner and the rim along with any missing or unfiled welds that might cause the pot to rock in its receptacle. I'm looking for burn pot air bypasses.

Do the dollar bill test at two separated locations on each side of the door and report back the results.

The ash pan openings on the front of the unit also need to be tight.

Smokey - I put tape around the ash pan opening. The new pan still doesn't seem to fit just right. The burn pot definately rocks in the cradle. seems to be raised in the middle a bit. I'll take a look at that. Did the dollar bill unde the hooper lid and it was tight all around. I'll recheck the door - it is brand new so I thought that issue was taken care of.

Well - it pays to ask guys who know. I just bought a new door from Englander and put it in. Didn't think to check it. You can see daylight between the left side and the bottom. The ash pan isn't as tight as I'd like it. How tight does it have to be? Can you double the gaskets and get reasonable results? Attached is a picture of the light from a flashlight coming in in to the firebox on the left side of he door. I'll Work with Englander on that. The burn Pot does rock in the cradle so I'll see if I can file one or the other flat and get a good seal there.

Thanks for the assist Everyone. When I have the door taken care of I'll let you know the results.

JW

I have been thinking of ways to correct the seal around the ash pan and the door:

I though about finding some metal tape (if there is such a thing) and use that to under the ash pan and left side of the door. Should allow for a better seal.
I also though about having my father-in-law weld a bead around both areas to get a better seal.
Lastly, I though about a secondary gasket, but I don't know if a gasket to gasket will seal. I have some extra gasket material from the hopper lid that I could use around the door and I coudl probably use the gasket off the old ash pan - if the gasket to gasket seal would work.

Anyone have any thoughts on this one?

Thanks,

JW