I know it's a beast - but I've had in my head for a good while so if I didn't build it it would have bugged me forever that I hadn't brought it to life.
As Uncle Pen mentioned; Ray told me he was worried about those wood ricks being close by so I re-stacked them a ways a way now. I shot them a number of times with a thermal gun and the wood temps were always under 110º - but I wanted Ray to be able to sleep. <g>
That stainless steel chimney liner you can see was just installed this past week - in fact; it's not really all-done yet as the cap still isn't
installed on the top and the wall thimble portion isn't concreted in yet.
The front of the stove is bolted on with a rope gasket. That's what all those bolts and nuts are on the front wall plate. I wasn't sure how the inside arrangements of the stove would work out - so I wanted to have ready-access to change them or add to them or whatever.
If you look at those earlier posted pictures you can see how the inside is set up. It's still about the same except that this fall I cut the
second-pass / smoke-shelf plate about 8" shorter in the back.
In these pics here below you can see - down next to the air intake gate valve - where I burned another air hole in. I am going to weld another nipple there and put another gate valve on. Although now I may cap them both as I am really questioning the under-the-fire placement of the air inlets. Now I am thinking that a big air inlet in the middle of the loading door would be better as the air would be more-or-less Over the fire - rather than under it.
I still have to make a wood handle for that door latch arm - it gets too hot to touch being all metal.
Just using black smoke pipe and 90's would look neater I'm sure but I already had the corrugated stainless steel. Although I may change to regular smoke pipe as I have a new 6" chimney-type heat-a-lator thing sitting down there. What makes me hesitate to use it is the fact that just a single load of wood in this stove already overheats the house for most of the day. <g>
My design-thought with this triangle stove was that the sides of the stove body are the 3" by 5" tubes. They heat up and the air inside them rises up and out. Cold air enters from the floor level and is then heated before flowing up and out. All by convection so I don't have to pay to run a blower to move the hot air around. And then with the smoke flowing up at the rear of the firebox, forward inside - across the top of the smoke shelf plate - out through the front smoke pipe connection, and then through the external smoke pipe - the rising hot air from the sidewall tubes has to also flow up and around the hot external smoke pipe to be 'super-heated'. This is another good thing about using the corrugated stainless steel - it has much more surface area than would just a smooth-bore smoke pipe.
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BTW: in thinking about the vertical water heater stove - I thought of something else:
Suppose I built the proposed water heater stove upright and then added another part - like a chute - attached at one side and extending up about 4-5' at say: a 60º angle? Like a chute maybe 10-12" in diameter (or 10-12" square) with a tight lid on the upper end? The bottom edge of the bottom end of the chute would be just above a grate in the bottom of the actual firebox. Then once the fire was going the chute could be filled with wood put in lengthwise. And, as the fire burned off the wood at the bottom of the chute - more wood would keep gradually sliding down and feeding the fire.
What do you all think? How would that be?
PHM
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pen said:
Here are the pics that PHM sent.
He made mention that the wood has been removed since firing, he also shared a bunch of other info but I'll let him copy and paste that himself if he'd like.
It certainly looks like a beast PHM!
