1st post, 1st wood stove, DIY install...yikes

Hi All


Great site wish I found it a few years ago, forum sites like this are priceless for knowledge and information.
I'm a DIY so I'm going to try and doc. the whole process for your entertainment(pic's) and for you help answer all my dumba$$ ?'s and not screw up too bad.


Alitte history/backround
I have an small older home(40's), was pretty much a time machine when I bought it. 3rd owner, 2nd owner didn't do much except replace the electrical panel & cover it with vinyl.
I've added insulation, replaced all 21 windows, gut'd down to the stud's the 1 bathroom and tiled it back up. (Took 14 days straight, link drop http://www.johnbridge.com/ is another great site for tile advise.) And a number of other projects completed.

So for this one

Material collected - I updated as I go, I'm sure I'll be going to various B/B and Hardware stores to complete this one.

Jotul Nordic QT
SuperVent Ceiling Support Kit Model #: JSC6DCSP
SuperVent DSP6-6 Vertical Installation Kit Model #: DSP6VIK
SuperVent 6" x 36" Stainless Steel Chimney Pipe Model #: JSC6SA3
SuperPro JSC6RRS 6" Superpro Rafter Shield
Metalbest 6TAF-12 Sure-Temp 6" Class A Chimney Pipe Adjustable Roof Flashing for 6/12 to 12/12 Roof Pitch
Locking bands
Hight Temp Spray paint
and misc. stuff

Stove will be installed in my living room. Everything is going straight up, 1st through the ceiling then 5-6ft of attic space, and then the roof, should be justoff the peak.



Concern's so far are.
After dry fitting the vent conn. in the barn. I'm not that impressed with quality of these connections so RTV and/or Purpose specific GOO will be applied were needed.

?????
What's the best method for this?

RTV
Stove Gasket Cement
Other?


Thanks

So far so good.

Made circle jig for the dremel out of scrap plywood, forstner bit a recess for the dremel with a spiral bit.
Had to disco and move an electrical line to installing the framing on west side of the ceiling support, and I had to notch bottom the 2x6 framing on the east side. There was add. wood inplace for a drywall seam.

Used Simpson strong tie's and 1/4 bit Simpson screw on everything I could.
Stove pipe to chimney adaptor had decent gap on the inside so I filled it rutland furnace cement. Plus 3 selftaping SS 3/4 screw around the outside (no room for locking band once is it seated in the ceiling support)

Jotul dbl wall Stove pipe adaptor only has 2 bolt(one the sides) to secure the vent pipe adaptor so I cemented the in the bottom of that also.



Well with no light and alot of rain I didnt climb up on the roof to cut a the next hole.

???????????????

I read in another post, do you need a storm collar inside the attic, on top of the Insulation shield?


Also any suggestion sealant for the roof flashing-tothe-roof. PL or other product?

Here are some pics

Furnace cement in gap

Close up

ceiling support



Drilled out holes

wasnt crazy about this connection

Additional cement was place here,



It got an extra Inch. at least of clearance all round.



Next stop the roof.

More photos

Attic Shield



Marking for hole

other side.


Used screws to locate where to start on the outside



All the roof flashing, cap and clamps are done. Building/Fire Inspections is scheduled tomorrow.

jjs777_fzr said:

SushiStalker said:

So far so good.


???????????????

I read in another post, do you need a storm collar inside the attic, on top of the Insulation shield?


Also any suggestion sealant for the roof flashing-tothe-roof. PL or other product?

Click to expand...

I never heard of anyone using a collar inside the attic on top the insulation shield - but for the projects I do...if it makes sense and you think it adds value then it can't hurt.

When you flash the roof - don't make the same mistake some folks have made - do not caulk or seal the bottom of the flashing.
'bottom' means the downward slope side of the flashing
you still need to run a bead of flashing cement (or silicone) on the underside of the flashing where it touches the asphalt roof shingles (again not on the downward slope side)

Also dont forget to use high temp silicone around the outside collar - against the class A and along the seam of the collar where it comes together.

Nice project -

Click to expand...

Thanks

I never did install the extra storm collar on the AIS., I thought I saw that on another post.

Another silly ? why would you not caulk or seal the bottom of the roof flashing?

I can understand water/moisture getting trapped and causing rot, and by not caulking it would provide an exit/drainage.
Is there another reason for not caulking the bottom edge?

If water is getting in, I would assume you have a bigger problem and the damage most likely has already happened.

Well its is been a month

And I have few issues.
It all started when the weather got alttile colder, I noticed some smoke leakage at top of the stove pipe @ the Stove Pipe Adapter.
It. would get worse if opened the door.

So I decided todo a sweep of the chimney to see what a month of burning would produce and take care of the leak.

I took the stove pipe outside and and got maybe a 1/2 a cup of soot and stuff.
Chimney produced about the same or less, mostly likely less.


After putting everything back together the leak was worse. I used some gasket roping stuffed up inside but that did work.
Before I could open the door a few inchs and no smoke but now open it a crack and some comes out the door and out the seams.

I went out and got the Rutland RTV Clear and applied it to the TOP adapter.
TOP got better, but now the bottom & even telescopic was leaking.

This leaking issue is really starting to get mad. Everything was working great for a month and now the stove pipe is leaking like a sieve.
I assume its combination of poor draft and poor wood. Since this is my first winter with stove I dont have stack of wood thats been seasoned for sure. Everything I'm burning is from a family member who is in the tree business.


Who makes the nice tight fitting stove pipe?

I have 3 - 36" sections of chimney
and 5' of Supervent stove pipe.

That 14ft total.

So do I put another 36" or 24".

Now this means I have to put a roof support also.


Just to give you a play by play is 54deg outside with SSE winds at 31mph gusting to 50mph & Pressure: 29.41.
Right now I have smelly smoldering fire that wont light, and masking tape around every joint, and if I open the door more then a 1/2 inch I get smoke in the house.

whopee!

oldspark said:

SushiStalker said:

I have 3 - 36" sections of chimney
and 5' of Supervent stove pipe.

That 14ft total.

Click to expand...

Any 90's at all, that will make it worse.

Click to expand...

No 90's
Photos of the install are above.

oldspark said:

Stick a 4 foot chunk on there, no reason to hold back at only 14 feet, you have to have a support any way and you get more bang for your buck.

Click to expand...

Big Box stores around here only stock 36" & 24". I havent seen 4' sections on shelves around here.

pgmr said:

Do you have a chimney cap? Did it get cleaned when you swept chimney and stove pipe? Did you check all connector joints after sweeping?

Click to expand...

Yes there us a cap.

No I did not clean it, I did not think it was ness. with only 1 month of burning.
This is model cap I have.



No I did not check the connections. When I did the install, I used screws and bands on each connections.

I'll check the connections when I install another section and support bracket.