Is this correct (pics)

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
W

WellSeasoned

Guest
I'm going to clean the chimney today.

I started by unscrewing the stove pipe at a connection 12" ABOVE the stove. As I took out the last screw, the part of pipe at the ceiling box came sliding down. I looked inside and noticed that the inner ring was bent from 2 of the screws, and that none of them went all the way through the pipe into the ceiling mount. Is this ok?

2011-12-31100251-1.gif


2011-12-31100225.gif
 
I think the screws are suppose to screw the two pipes together. So I would say no, thats not right. But what do i know. I hope Im understanding your question right
 
70 views and 1 response? Anyone? I think the screws should go all the way through, but would like to know for sure. And is that ring inside that has the screw bending, is this okay. Thx
 
Bend the inside pipe back into place and drill the inner pipe so that the screws penetrate both layers of pipe and the connector. If the screws aint through the connect, they aren't doing anything cept holding it in place by pressure, and that could fail at some point.
 
I have a different brand pipe, DuraVent, but had the same question. According to their installation literature, the support box transition adapter ring doesn't get screwed. But if you want it to be screwed together, I think you will need to remove the current screws. Straighten out the bent wall(s), then drill a clearance hole through the inner wall of the double-wall connector. Install pipe and when it's in place, drill a pilot hole into the adapter (thru the connector pipe) so that the screw taps into the adapter. It looks like you will need screws 1/2" longer to accomplish this. I would also make an index mark on both the pipe and ceiling support box so that the next time it is removed, it can be returned with the same screw hole alignment.
 
I would want the scews going all the way through for sure. x2 on pilot holes, longer screws and marking both the pipe and adapter with a light pencil line. Mine is not attached at the ceiling adapter with screws - it just sits in there and is screwed together at the telescoping point in the middle but I may put a couple screws at the top and they will go all the way through. Not sure what kind of pipe I have(literature is in the drawer) but it looks exactly like yours on the inside. With it only held up by pressure I would fear the expand/contract with heat would cause it to fail and boy would that be a doozy with a fire going!!
 
Looks like Hog and I simultaneously posted. FYI, if your support box adapter ring is as thin as ours is, it's going to take a careful touch and a sharp drill bit for the pilot hole.
 
I placed 3- 1" self tapping hex head screws in, so all should be well. Cleaning is done, will tel the story on another thread. Yippee
 
I was told yesterday code requires minimum 3 screws to hold the pipe sections together..not so much for daily support, stability, and sealing purposes but in case there is a fire in the chimney the pipes will start to warp and twist and if they are not screwed together they could fall down in the house, leaving an open conduit for the fire. This is from the 15+ yr experienced wood stove installer / repair guy / former fireman who inspected my stoves yesterday. So, yes, I would also want the screw thru both pipes completely.
 
The pipe sections yes, but I haven't found supporting documentation requiring it at the adapter. Could be wrong though. If so, I would expect the system to have predrilled holes and to be designed for this.
 
I ran 3- 1"self tapping screws through the outer pipe, connection insert, and inner pipe. Hope this is ok. Can't believe installers didn't think to put longer screws in!
 
My Duravent has the no screw ring also.The pressure is mainly on the stove flu and the slider is screwed to that and is screwed together where it joins the other sliding section.I didn't have to mark the pipe because it left a scratch to the screw holes. :shut:
 
No screws at my ceiling support box either, duravent. That's the way it is supposed to be. You "can" put screws there but it won't matter, the SS snap lok adapter is not going anywhere.

Old school single wall pipe is different. Three screws at each joint.

What do the installation instructions for your pipe say? This is a very typical installation detail that will apply to every situation. The manual will say whether or not screws are required for your pipe at that location.
 
Highbeam said:
No screws at my ceiling support box either, duravent. That's the way it is supposed to be. You "can" put screws there but it won't matter, the SS snap lok adapter is not going anywhere.

Old school single wall pipe is different. Three screws at each joint.

What do the installation instructions for your pipe say? This is a very typical installation detail that will apply to every situation. The manual will say whether or not screws are required for your pipe at that location.

I guess the installers should have brought me some. That ring your talking about surely wasn't locked. When I took the lower screws out close to the stove, the whole thing came sliding down. So after reading about a warping problem in the event of an lengthy over fire, and the pipe sliding down then as well, I didn't hesitate to put in a few screws for extra safety.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.