Changing from fin tube to radiant baseboard

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lawandorder

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Mar 17, 2008
193
upstate new york
Anyone know what hi trim baseboard btu outputs are for using lower operating temps. I am trying to figure out how much buts are output through my baseboard when my temps are 150 degrees.
 
SlantFin, one of the top baseboard manufacturers, now show their outputs with low supply temperatures.

If you know the brand try searching their website. Or look for a SlantFin that fits your description.

Heating Edge is a brand with a high output, low temperature baseboard intended for GEO and Solar powered systems..

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Thanks for the reply have you or anyone else converted from fin tube to low temp baseboard. I am looking at the Runtal baseboard as well as the HE2 baseboard . Just looking for any users who have made the switch that have some ideas.
 
I can't help you on your question about conversion from high to low temp BB, but am curious if you are also considering panel rads in the mix? (Runtal has some in their line-up). I assume you're trying to stretch out your 500 gallons further by getting more out of the lower temp range. I believe most (all?) panel rads operate in the lower temp range. I know some of this stuff is bigger $$, and don't know how it compares in price to what you're looking at. But the variable output feature of these things would be a big deal to me, if I were considering such a change. It sounds like it could be used instead of conventional zoning, and from what I've read (some of which is feedback from the pros on this forum), it may even start to make a bit of a run at radiant sometime soon. Thinking about being able to adhoc modulate the temp of each room in the house makes me start to ........ no, I need to take my mind off that by going outside and cutting more wood :coolmad:
 
I bounce back an forth my concern is that panel rads won't keep the room as warm as the baseboard. The first zone that I want o do is our great room that is 24 x26 with a full wall of glass. The baseboard seems to do the trick bt only if I'm in the higher temp outputs
 
So far I love my panel rads. Haven't had any real cold weather yet but It stays whatever I set the thermostate at so far. It's a
nice warm heat part radiant and part convection.
 
I went to the Low Temp Slant fin last year and I am very happy with the results. I can use the Boiler Reset feature on my Tekmar controller which has stretched my storage capacity. The house temp is more comfortable all in all it was worth the expense and the effort. I didn't add any length when I converted because it would have made the job way more time consuming.

Good Luck
 
[quote author="chuck172" date="1325440539"]What brand panel rads do you have woodsmaster

I have Stelrad. Got a good deal on a discontinued model line that I picked up locally.
 
My concern with panel rads is heating a large room with a front wall of glass and a roof 26 ft high. I guess btus are buts but I fear that I'll have cold spots more than I have now
 
I also had that concern with a room In my house that has 2 - 2 x 4 outside walls, with probably a poor vapor barrior, an entry door, wall air conditioner, couple windows, and the attick isn't air sealed or insulated great above that room. It's an aprox
18 x 22 room with one rad aprox. 8500 btu @ 140 F water temp. the room stayes comfy all over.

Most baseboard is convection so a lot of your heat will go up the wall. With a rad it will radiate out more. As long as you have enough btu's for the room you will be fine.
 
Fun tube baseboards are considered convectors, as mentioned. Cool air enters the bottom warmed air rises out the top. They work nicely under large glass as the heat loss for that room IS the glass.

Fin tube is sometimes easier to install under windows, depending on how much wall space you have under the window.

I'll be considering these Smith brand for m y next heating project as they have great output numbers at low supply temperatures. Same output increase at the higher temperatures also, with 180F supply.

Jaga builds fin tube convectors that you can add a small row of fans onto. This turns it into a forced convection emitter and further increases the output. They have a clever reset control included that modulates the fan speed based on the temperature of the supply. If you want a lot of output in a small "package", and a little fan noise is not an issue, fan convectors will be your best choice. Of course the price increases as the output increases.

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Here is an output chart from a common panel rad. This is a slide from one of my solar training classes showing options for solar Combi systems. I believe this is the Dianorm brand panel radiator output sheet.

Use the multiplier with the supply temperature- the ambient air temperature. For example CF (correction factor) .001882 x (110- 68F)1.33 = .271. So a 72" rad with an output of 8477 BTU/hr X the CF would give you 2289 BTU/hr.

Usually their outputs are shown with a 180F average temperature and 20F ∆T. By reducing the supply to120F it requires about 4 times as much rad surface for the same BTU/ hr. output. This adds cost and requires more wall space.

If you chose to use any emitter at low supply temperatures a home run piping system to each panel or baseboard is a good way to go. It would be tough to get much output from the last of a series piping when starting with 120F on the first in a series row.

This is where forced convection, like the Jaga starts to make more sense. Smaller package and better output.

These are often used in conjuction with high mass floor radiant systems. In the shoulder season it is much quicker to bring up a radiator of baseboard compared to thousands of pounds of concrete. they are also common in high load rooms where radiant floor alone cannot meet the load.

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