Chimney liner only installed in flue?
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mellow
Resident Stove Connoisseur
Plenty of people run EPA stoves at 15' and they run fine, it is when you get below that you will for sure see draft issues.
Now a Pre-EPA stove that is designed for an 8" flue, that is the question, will it run on a 15' 6" liner? I would insulate the 6" liner to help with draft, but it might just be time to get a new insert. Sell that buck on CL for $300 and recoup some of your costs.
Now a Pre-EPA stove that is designed for an 8" flue, that is the question, will it run on a 15' 6" liner? I would insulate the 6" liner to help with draft, but it might just be time to get a new insert. Sell that buck on CL for $300 and recoup some of your costs.
mellow said:
I think that is the route i'm forced to take, if this "pro" will work with me now that I have a 10 in flue rather than 8in.
I pulled insert out yesterday (weather is quite warm), there is creosote all over the new liner (surprise surprise). Creosote everywhere above fireplace damper.
I'm going to ask him to line and insulate this with 6in and rework the bottom ring connection and top cap for backdraft (no more pour insulation). I measured the fireplace damper, it is right at 6 in, so should get through with a little massaging....
I can work the connection to a stove and insulate the smoke chamber. Still shaking my head.
I'll pay the original quote if he can come up with this (and given i'm sure he gets parts wholesale, should be coming out a little ahead, but not much). I'll even pay for him to sweep the chimney, but I want a thorough cleaning.
If he cannot work with finding some insulation and 6 in liner laying around, then, unfortunately, I will have no option than refuse payment. I will not pay for what I have as it is simply too dangerous to operate, and I would love to hear the excuse for not connecting once modifying the original flue, particularly when the insert has been installed the entire time. This gentlemen obviously does not work by the guidelines established by NFPA.
I'll know more Wednesday.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
I guarantee the fist words out of his mouth when you show him the creosote is your wood is not dry enough. Or, he will say he has seen much worse then that.
Hope you get some resolution to the issue. Fingers crossed.
Hope you get some resolution to the issue. Fingers crossed.
ddddddden
Minister of Fire
Sounds like a reasonable position to me. Maybe you could've communicated more effectively, but a professional should not depend on the customer's comm skills. He should have asked some questions like,"Are you going to be using this insert in the chimney that you want relined?" He should have measured the flue collar on the insert, and used a pipe with a similar cross-sectional area. I think the largest Bucks had a 5x15" flue, for which a 10" pipe would be about right. If he thougt about the stove at all, maybe he assumed it was 5x15". Whatever you end up doing, heed the advice about getting 15' of height with your new chimney, starting from the collar on the stove. Some stoves are tested to run 14', a few maybe 12', but if you don't have the minimum height for a particular stove, the draft may be insufficcent for good performance. If you don't already have a stove picked out, 15' Is a good minimum to shoot for. Good luck. 
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
X2webby3650 said:
I bought a small section of aluminum flex at Home Depot to use as a mock up of the liner to gauge how much of the damper I needed to cut out, and went few couple inches larger. Was cheap and very handy.
Hillbilly
Member
Hillbilly said:
That is interesting.
Looks like an oval though. Did you use the ovalized flex?
Thanks,
Can you verify that is an ovalized adapter, not straight 6 inch round, or some type of photo parallax?
But that certainly seems like a better option than what I have.
I have a few options on some used stoves I've found, or can even get a Magnolia new from up near my in-laws for around 800. But if these fall through, this would be ideal until I can save enough for a proper 6inch insert.
BTW, my stove is a 27000 Buck, so it is a 3.5 x 14 inch damper. Verified yesterday when I pulled her out to observe the fireplace.
Is this for a 27000?
But that certainly seems like a better option than what I have.
I have a few options on some used stoves I've found, or can even get a Magnolia new from up near my in-laws for around 800. But if these fall through, this would be ideal until I can save enough for a proper 6inch insert.
BTW, my stove is a 27000 Buck, so it is a 3.5 x 14 inch damper. Verified yesterday when I pulled her out to observe the fireplace.
Is this for a 27000?
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
Lite, he has an oval to round section of pipe so the 6" round liner can mate to the oval stove connector.
Hillbilly
Member
This is an ovalized adapter that transition's to a 6" round. The ovalized part will fit through most fireplace dampers.
More pics. Sorry for the quality of the pics, all I have is a cell phone camera. The oval to round is 30" in length. The castiron boot is 8" X 16" inside. You would need a short piece of 6" round to go from the 6' round end of adapter into the 10". Stuff some insulation around the 6" were it goes into the 10" to seal it off. Note: I would only commend this type of seal for a temporary setup.
More pics. Sorry for the quality of the pics, all I have is a cell phone camera. The oval to round is 30" in length. The castiron boot is 8" X 16" inside. You would need a short piece of 6" round to go from the 6' round end of adapter into the 10". Stuff some insulation around the 6" were it goes into the 10" to seal it off. Note: I would only commend this type of seal for a temporary setup.
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woodmiser
Feeling the Heat
mellow
Resident Stove Connoisseur
Old inserts had rectangles because everyone just ran them as slammers, the few that did direct connects had to buy this additional kit.
woodmiser
Feeling the Heat
Man it sounds crazy to just let the smoke billow out into the fireplace... but then I guess it's not much different than just an open fireplace?
mellow
Resident Stove Connoisseur
clemsonfor
Minister of Fire
woodmiser said:
May sound crazy but every one does it. There is a trim kit that seperates the home from the fireplace. The heat carries the smoke up the chimney like you said , just like a fire. Once its hot the smoke will rise.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
Hogwildz said:
Hey,
Sorry for delay. Work is at a crazy pace right now, plus just had arthroscopic knee surgery.
Anyhow, met with chimney "pro", showed him the unsat situation. He is claiming open fireplace (it was there the whole time), or what if I wanted to sell? Let me worry about that.
Asked him how he would make this right, stated the six inch insulated would be $1300 more. Told him that was his cost to bear, not mine.
That, or negotiate on work inapplicable to my current situation.
He left fairly perturbed.
So, I'm likely going to install the six myself to a magnolia I recently picked up.
The drama continues.....
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
$1,300.00 to fix his f'up? Of which the 6" liner costs about $450.00. What a POS! Almost like he had this planned from the beginning.
Did you check and see if he has a BBB rating?
If you wanted to just use the fireplace, the stove would not have been sitting in there.
Stick to your guns man! This is a big pile of BS.
Did you check and see if he has a BBB rating?
If you wanted to just use the fireplace, the stove would not have been sitting in there.
Stick to your guns man! This is a big pile of BS.
The way this sounds like it is going, you may be in small claims court. In order to prove you aren't trying to scam the installer, find out ahead of time if you need to put money in escrow with the county clerk or somebody. It will prove the money is there pending resolution of the matter.
Matt
Matt
ddddddden
Minister of Fire
+1. I hate having to be a hardass, but he may as well have climbed up on the roof and taken a dump down your chimney. The work he did *might* save you the trouble of insulating your new liner, so it might be worth ~ $300. If I were feeling generous, I'd pay him something like that as a gesture, thank him for trying, and DIY the liner.
Hogwildz said:
Exactly, and I was a bit offended. I told him I could do it for $500, that $1300 would include labor, that i'm not going to eat to make it right.
After our lengthy discussion, as others suggest, 19 yrs in business or not, he is old-way thinking.
EatenByLimestone said:
Good point. I have the funds, certainly not a scammer, but I fear the outcome you suggest is where we are headed.
nola mike
Minister of Fire
Also might not be a bad idea to get someone else out there stating that his work doesn't meet code, etc, and a quote for what it would take to do it right. Actually, 2 quotes--one showing what it would have cost had he not touched your chimney, and one showing what the cost is now.
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