AHHHHH!!!!!! What do I DO???

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Oklaguy77

New Member
Nov 18, 2011
26
Tornado Alley
So I cut a hole in my roof and there is no framing in sight! I have a cathedral type ceiling/roof and assumed there would be truss's to attach my framing to install my roof support, but I found styrofoam insulation. I cut a 12.5" x 12.5" hole in my roof and I can stick a hanger 15" in any direction into the styrofoam and hit NOTHING. Any suggestions?
 
Bummer. What brand cathedral support box are you installing? DuraVent's attaches to the roof deck on the sides. Do you have a decent thickness decking up there?

I'm wondering if you could build a 2x4 collar for the support box, then glue and screw that to the underside (interior side) of the decking? Put a spot of silicone on the screwheads, then install the support box using screws on the top and bottom to attach to the collar?
 

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BeGreen said:
Bummer. What brand cathedral support box are you installing? DuraVent's attaches to the roof deck on the sides. Do you have a decent thickness decking up there?

I'm wondering if you could build a 2x4 collar for the support box, then glue and screw that to the underside (interior side) of the decking? Put a spot of silicone on the screwheads, then install the support box using screws on the top and bottom to attach to the collar?

Its Metal-Fab and the directions that come with it show it nailing to a 2x4 frame. But I agree with you that its going to have to be like the picture you posted. I will do as you suggest and frame in on the underside and screw it through the roof, then lay over the support box and also anchor that as shown. THANKS!!!! You've helped a ton!
 
Make sure you have your clearances to that foam. I myself would go about 6" away just to be safe.
 
Hogwildz said:
Make sure you have your clearances to that foam. I myself would go about 6" away just to be safe.

The necessary clearance is built into the support box.
No need for an additional amount.
 
DAKSY said:
Hogwildz said:
Make sure you have your clearances to that foam. I myself would go about 6" away just to be safe.

The necessary clearance is built into the support box.
No need for an additional amount.

With that foam there... I am all about overkill when I do something. 2" ain't gonna make me sleep better.
 
DAKSY said:
Hogwildz said:
Make sure you have your clearances to that foam. I myself would go about 6" away just to be safe.

The necessary clearance is built into the support box.
No need for an additional amount.

Bob, do you agree with my suggestion? Have you solved any similar installations with a different method? I'm also thinking I would add a roof brace even if the exterior pipe was less than 5ft. above the roof penetration. The intent to reduce torque on the collar during high winds (tornado alley location). Your thoughts?
 
BeGreen said:
DAKSY said:
Hogwildz said:
Make sure you have your clearances to that foam. I myself would go about 6" away just to be safe.

The necessary clearance is built into the support box.
No need for an additional amount.

Bob, do you agree with my suggestion? Have you solved any similar installations with a different method? I'm also thinking I would add a roof brace even if the exterior pipe was less than 5ft. above the roof penetration. The intent to reduce torque on the collar during high winds (tornado alley location). Your thoughts?

I decided to frame in a box on the interior so my support box will also nail to those, the insulation will not be in direct contact with the support box. I already have a roof brace to install because of the height, I'm going to cut the corners on the support box and lay it all on the roof (except on the high side), cutting it short of the flashing.
I really appreciate all the help and supportfull ideas!
 
BeGreen said:
DAKSY said:
Hogwildz said:
Make sure you have your clearances to that foam. I myself would go about 6" away just to be safe.

The necessary clearance is built into the support box.
No need for an additional amount.

Bob, do you agree with my suggestion? Have you solved any similar installations with a different method? I'm also thinking I would add a roof brace even if the exterior pipe was less than 5ft. above the roof penetration. The intent to reduce torque on the collar during high winds (tornado alley location). Your thoughts?

I agree BG, but I'd go with a minimum of 2x6 just cuz. The roof pitch will
have to be duplicated on the top surface of the upper & lower cleats, & on each end of the sides
so they run dead plum when they're attached to the underside of the roof sheathing.
BIG deck screws with washers to keep the from pulling thru the sheathing would be advisable as well.
Then bending the correct angle on the CSB can be done after it's attached to the cleats...
The roof support kit will act as an additional stiffener.
 
I went with the 2x4s and honestly I'm not sure they added much more strength, but were really necessary in getting everything level and square. I don't like the flashing, but couldn't leave a hole in the roof so I installed the one I had. It was for 6/12-10/12 pitch and my roof is 7/12, making for a slightly odd look but it does work. If I can find some flashing made for 7/12 I may redo it, but we'll see. THANKS again for everyones help and opinions!!!
 
Oklaguy77 said:
I went with the 2x4s and honestly I'm not sure they added much more strength, but were really necessary in getting everything level and square. I don't like the flashing, but couldn't leave a hole in the roof so I installed the one I had. It was for 6/12-10/12 pitch and my roof is 7/12, making for a slightly odd look but it does work. If I can find some flashing made for 7/12 I may redo it, but we'll see. THANKS again for everyones help and opinions!!!

6/12 to 10/12 should be the right one for a 7/12 pitch roof. Are you sure you had it set the right way? Did you try spinning it?
 
Oklaguy77 said:
I went with the 2x4s and honestly I'm not sure they added much more strength, but were really necessary in getting everything level and square. I don't like the flashing, but couldn't leave a hole in the roof so I installed the one I had. It was for 6/12-10/12 pitch and my roof is 7/12, making for a slightly odd look but it does work. If I can find some flashing made for 7/12 I may redo it, but we'll see. THANKS again for everyones help and opinions!!!

You have the right flashing. Once you have the Class A in
& the storm collar on it'll look right.
 
Oklaguy77 said:
I went with the 2x4s and honestly I'm not sure they added much more strength, but were really necessary in getting everything level and square. I don't like the flashing, but couldn't leave a hole in the roof so I installed the one I had. It was for 6/12-10/12 pitch and my roof is 7/12, making for a slightly odd look but it does work. If I can find some flashing made for 7/12 I may redo it, but we'll see. THANKS again for everyones help and opinions!!!

Take a picture and post it so we can see what you are seeing.
 
Well thanks to all you guys help, I think its going to be ok, lol and you were right, It was the right flashing, and once installed it looks ok.
So I'm the amatuer asking the pro's, but what do you think?

chimney001.jpg

chimney009.jpg
 
Oklaguy77 said:
Well thanks to all you guys help, I think its going to be ok, lol and you were right, It was the right flashing, and once installed it looks ok.
So I'm the amatuer asking the pro's, but what do you think?

chimney001.jpg

chimney009.jpg

Looks good. You could have shingled the shingles along the sides on top of the roof flange to the sides of the base to the base. But leave the last row under the base roof flange as it is.
When I run shingles to the sides I usually leave about 1/2" away to let debris run down and off.
 
Maybe I'm wrong..but I think he just cut the hole right through the shingles..never removed any shingles.
I guess you could?
 
Actually to do it properly, yes you cut the shingles out using the inside of the opening as a template, Then cut about 3/8" to a 1/2" more off around that cut edge, as this will give you the snall run off area around the base. But you still have to removed the shingles along the sides and top to set the base flange onto the decking over top the tar paper, accept at top I slide it under the tar paper at the top, the bottom flange rests over top that last course of shingles, then reinstall the shingles working up and laying them over the base flange, the top also set over the base flange as he has it. This is done so as to not buck water. It will most likely be fine the way he has it, but a roofer that would have known what he is doing would have done it as I have described. Done many over the course of 13 years as a roofing mechanic.
Properly done, there is no need for muck. As no mail heads would be exposed. I know a few guys that muck the base flange down to the deck all the way around and on top of the last course of shingles as a fail safe. But if you ever have to pull that flashing back off, it ain't fun if mucked down.
 
Yep..I have installed numerous skylights.
 
Skylights are slightly different but same situation. And step flashings along the sides and a base on the top.
 
HotCoals said:
Maybe I'm wrong..but I think he just cut the hole right through the shingles..never removed any shingles.
I guess you could?

When I do this, I drill up from the bottom after locating where the
center of the plumb venting is going to be with a LONG 3/8 diameter
bit & leave the bit thru the roof. Then I get up there & plumb the drill
bit with a magnetic torpedo level. I locate the top of the flashing cone
to be centered on the plumbed drill bit. I use a yellow crayon type marker
to trace the ellipse on the shingles at the bottom of the cone, & I mark the
4 corners of the flashing plate for reference. With a sawzall, I then cut ONE
INCH outside of the crayon marking to give me a little "fudge" room, around
the top of the ellipse, from 9 O'Clock to 3 O'Clock. From 9 & from 3, DOWN,
I cut straight to a horizontal cut ONE INCH below the ellipse.
I use the corner markings to determine what roofing nails I have to remove, &
use a flat bar to remove them. Then I slide the flashing up under the shingles
leaving as little of the bottom plate out as I can...I use roofing nails across the
bottom (cuz I'm anal that way) & silicone all the way around the flashing & under
the shingles where the cut ends are...
Hope THAT makes sense...
 
Yeap, can be that way also. Just have to be careful in the colder months, as the shingles are brittle and can crack or break while lifting one to nail the one below.
The way he has it will work prolly work fine, just more tight and appealing when shingled in.
 
Hogwildz said:
Actually to do it properly, yes you cut the shingles out using the inside of the opening as a template, Then cut about 3/8" to a 1/2" more off around that cut edge, as this will give you the snall run off area around the base. But you still have to removed the shingles along the sides and top to set the base flange onto the decking over top the tar paper, accept at top I slide it under the tar paper at the top, the bottom flange rests over top that last course of shingles, then reinstall the shingles working up and laying them over the base flange, the top also set over the base flange as he has it. This is done so as to not buck water. It will most likely be fine the way he has it, but a roofer that would have known what he is doing would have done it as I have described. Done many over the course of 13 years as a roofing mechanic.
Properly done, there is no need for muck. As no mail heads would be exposed. I know a few guys that muck the base flange down to the deck all the way around and on top of the last course of shingles as a fail safe. But if you ever have to pull that flashing back off, it ain't fun if mucked down.
Excellent advice.Being a carpenter for residential and commerical buildings for the last 30 years I have seen some hack jobs by home owners and supposed roofing mechanic's.Like Hog said remove existing shingles and re-cut to the new boot or flashing.It's not that complicated,but experience and remembering to ask if you have questions is half the battle.To remove the existing shingles take a flat bar(Stanley wander bar is one)and gently slide under the shingle to loosen the seal on the shingle tabs.Always remember there are two rows of nails in each shingle.The nails holding the shingle you are working on and the nails from the shingle above it.
 
HotCoals said:
Maybe I'm wrong..but I think he just cut the hole right through the shingles..never removed any shingles.
I guess you could?

Yep, thats what I did. And under the flashing I "mucked" and "mucked" for a better seal. I felt good about it at the time, but after reading all you guys posts, now I wish I had asked first.
 
Oklaguy77 said:
HotCoals said:
Maybe I'm wrong..but I think he just cut the hole right through the shingles..never removed any shingles.
I guess you could?

Yep, thats what I did. And under the flashing I "mucked" and "mucked" for a better seal. I felt good about it at the time, but after reading all you guys posts, now I wish I had asked first.
It may be fine for now,just keep an eye on it to make sure it's sealed.
 
Oklaguy77 said:
HotCoals said:
Maybe I'm wrong..but I think he just cut the hole right through the shingles..never removed any shingles.
I guess you could?

Yep, thats what I did. And under the flashing I "mucked" and "mucked" for a better seal. I felt good about it at the time, but after reading all you guys posts, now I wish I had asked first.
You might be fine.

If you have just one layer and your zoning allows it you could put on a second layer of shingles and cover some of that flashing,like you normally would do when the shingles you have now starts showing wear from curling or whatever.
 
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