Englander WHI-2052 furnace not staying hot

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raypa

Member
Jan 4, 2012
49
Western PA
New to the forum. I’ve been burning for 15 or so years on a baker wood stove with two front double doors and air adjustment knobs. It has a brink bottom with no grates or ash pan. I recently picked up an Englander WHI-2052 wood furnace that has the brick lined grates, lower ash pan, and blower. I installed this in my garage with 6†pipe up through the roof. When I fire it up, I’m leaving the bottom ash door open for a bit to get air to the fire. After about 20 minutes or so, the blower finally kicks on at 150deg. Once the blower kicks on, it cools the unit down, a lot of times below the shut off that is set at 90deg. I’ll leave the bottom door open another 15 min or so to get the fire going then I close the door. The ash door has one air vent, that I have all the way open. The fill door has two vents that I leave all the way open. If I leave it run like this, it never continues to burn hot enough to keep the blower from cycling. The wood is good as I burn it with no problem in the house. Last night I popped the top cap off my class A to help increase draw and that didn’t seem to help either. I just don’t know what I’m doing wrong using this burner. Why can’t I keep it hot enough for the blower to stay on. If I leave the bottom ash door open it will run at a steady ~120-130 deg and the blower goes. If I close it up which is how it is supposed to be for safety, my temperature drops. I can never get a real good coal bed when I leave the bottom ash door open and never get it hot when the ash door is closed. Coming out the back of the stove, I have a 6†black tee with a 1’ cleanout drop. The black goes 4’ vertical with a dampener around 2’. At 4 foot, I have a 45deg bend 2’ of black another 45 bed (jog in the stack) then 2.5’ of black going into my class A up through my rafters and roof. The Class A is approximately 5’ above where it punches through the roof and is 2’ above the roof at 10 feet away but not above the ridge. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what the deal is?
 
My turn on is 150. My high limit is 200. My turn off is 90. I don't know how to "check" my draft. the wood is 1 year seasoned. It burns hot as heck in my other burner. What can I do do increas draft?
 
I had the newer englander furnace. M y furnace also cycled quite a bit, but my understanding is that it should. With really well-seasoned wood, and after a full reload, I would often get 1.5 or so hours of constant running of the blower, and then it would begin to cycle after that. I would only leave the ash door open for about 10 minutes while getting it started, and then would leave the ash door air supply open about one turn. If you're getting thorough combustion of the wood, I wouldn't worry too much about the cycling, unless you think you're not getting enough heat out of the unit. I also don't think draft is much of a problem in your case.

My suggestions:
1. Maybe lower the lower limit a bit, to keep the blower running longer, but not much.
2. If the blower is cooling down the furnace too quickly, could you wire in a rheostat to slow the blower speed a bit (for longer, but slower running of the blower)?
3. Make sure your wood is really well-seasoned, to get hot combustion without needing to add a lot of extra air. If you're fighting to keep a hot fire going with wet wood, most of your heat is going to go up the chimney, and so there isn't as much for your furnace to use (hence the frequent cycling of the blower). Plus, the extra air you're adding to keep the burn going is pre-heated air from your living space, and it's getting wasted up the chimney, too (although that's only a minor concern).
 
Maybe I'm expecting too much. This in out in a 1200sqft uninsulated garage with a plastic 11.5' ceiling. I wish I had warm air from the room to send up the chimney. lol.

What are the typical settings of the limits for a unit like this. What temp does your limit contol indicate typically? The wood is not perfectly seasoned and there is some juice in a split ever now and then, but it burns like crazy in my house.

I like the rheostat idea alot. I will have to look into how to install one.
 
raypa said:
Maybe I'm expecting too much. This in out in a 1200sqft uninsulated garage with a plastic 11.5' ceiling. I wish I had warm air from the room to send up the chimney. lol.

What are the typical settings of the limits for a unit like this. What temp does your limit contol indicate typically? The wood is not perfectly seasoned and there is some juice in a split ever now and then, but it burns like crazy in my house.

I like the rheostat idea alot. I will have to look into how to install one.

If your wood is juicy at all, it's not near dry/seasoned enough. It may burn well in your house, but thats more luck than anything is my bet.
 
With the 45's and the shorter chimney im betting low draft. You don't need a damper in the flue, it will do more harm than good with your draft. Your limit/control settings don't sound like they are the problem. Unless it's something like oak, most woods cut, split and stacked a year will be okay, your not running a EPA unit. How is the weather there, warmer weather will produce weaker draft. Also try smaller splits to start out. I missed the juicy comment, wet wood will produce poor fires and creosote. That could be the main culprit.
 
rewind... I used to have an oil furnace in my garage. I used the stack (CLASS A) for the burner. Today I added 3' of pipe on the roof, upped my limit to start at 170 shut off at 130 and now it is ripping! I should have read more before I posted this thread. I found my info in the sticky.

Thanks guys! Yes, my wood is a year old and still needs seasoning, but I don't have a choice right now. I'm stocking wood for next winter.


IMG_4502.jpg
 
raypa said:
rewind... I used to have an oil furnace in my garage. I used the stack (CLASS A) for the burner. Today I added 3' of pipe on the roof, upped my limit to start at 170 shut off at 130 and now it is ripping! I should have read more before I posted this thread. I found my info in the sticky.

Thanks guys! Yes, my wood is a year old and still needs seasoning, but I don't have a choice right now. I'm stocking wood for next winter.

Looks like a great way to heat the garage. If I ever get around to building a garage I might do something similar.
 
You know. I like to purchase locally just to keep my local guys in business. I purchased a 36" piece of Class A metalbestos pip from a local guy and was charged $181. I gulped at the price, but never looked it up before I left home. I gave them the benefit of the doubt and purchased the pipe and installed it. Curiousity, I looked it up later in the day to find out that Amzon.com sells the same piece for $99.00. I do think it was my fault as the uneducated consumer, but to be charging double on something someone else is selling and already marking up is a bunch of crap. I know they need to make money to survive, hence the reason I try to buy local. But to have that much of a markup is rediculous. Not to mention this is a pretty reputable chimney/stove company.

All in all, the 3' of pipe did help my draft and I'm happy with it, just not the price I paid.
 
raypa said:
You know. I like to purchase locally just to keep my local guys in business. I purchased a 36" piece of Class A metalbestos pip from a local guy and was charged $181. I gulped at the price, but never looked it up before I left home. I gave them the benefit of the doubt and purchased the pipe and installed it. Curiousity, I looked it up later in the day to find out that Amzon.com sells the same piece for $99.00. I do think it was my fault as the uneducated consumer, but to be charging double on something someone else is selling and already marking up is a bunch of crap. I know they need to make money to survive, hence the reason I try to buy local. But to have that much of a markup is rediculous. Not to mention this is a pretty reputable chimney/stove company.

All in all, the 3' of pipe did help my draft and I'm happy with it, just not the price I paid.

$180 is the going rate for a 3' section of insulated chimney from a stove shop here. Lowes and Home Depot sell it for $100-150 depending on time of year etc. However, I got mine for $42/section in the spring due to Home Depot clearances :) 5 sections of it too!
 
I do realize some stores are selling it for that price. I had to stick with the brand to match my existing. I just don't like how they double an already marked up price. Oh well. I'm just venting.
 
raypa said:
I do realize some stores are selling it for that price. I had to stick with the brand to match my existing. I just don't like how they double an already marked up price. Oh well. I'm just venting.

My guess is that they aren't doubling an already marked up price. They are probably getting it for close to what you can get it for online and then have to mark up from there. If they don't sell a ton, they have to mark up quite a bit to make it worth them stocking it.

I hear you on the venting thing, I got quite frustrated with it till I lucked out on my HD deal.
 
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