englander 25-PAH/55SHPAH/55-TRPAH bought from Lowes......

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mjbrown

mjbrown

Feeling the Heat
Jan 15, 2008
397
Hartland,Me.
the stove has been installed in an uninsulated basement, which will soon be done.

i had been told the stove was pushing cold air and not heating at all. i went to her home, started the stove,and the heat was ok at 5 feed 5 blower speed.bumped it up to 8-8 and didnt feel much change,after checking it several times over a couple hr span.

i checked the bottom 3 buttons and got 1=4=1 for settings. i tried to change them a bit, but when i pushed the first button and got the 1 reading and then the up arrow the number didnt change...same for the other 2.

the stove is in maine, so i am assuming the factory presets are goining to be a bit different than a preset for virginia. is the board defective if i cant change the settings, or am i doing something wrong?

any help would be appreciated, until i get a chance to call tech support or talk to mike holton.


thanx,
mike btw, the oak is hooked up.
 
mjbrown65 said:
....i checked the bottom 3 buttons and got 1=4=1 for sentings. I tried to change them a bit, but when i pushed the first button and got the 1 reading and then the up arrow the number didnt chage...same for the other 2......
Click to expand...

You have to press BOTH up or down arrow buttons to make it change. Try bumping the LFF to 3, and the LBA to 5.

BTW, seeing that you're in Maine in an UNINSULATED basement, even that stove is going to have a hard time heating anything. If the owner is trying to heat her upstairs, I'd HIGHLY recommend to her to move the stove up there.

Also, how old is the stove, and what kind of REAL cleaning is the stove getting?? What is the exhaust set-up?
 
imac,

thanx for the response...i will try that. didnt realize you had to press BOTH the up or down buttons.

owner is in the process of buying styrofoam insulation for the basement,as she wants to keep the stove in the location it is right now. tried to sway her differently,explained that the concrete was going to suck up the heat,but she has her mind set.

as far as the hookup, it is 3-4" simpson pipe coming out of the stove, rising 3-4 ft, going into wall thimble and out to i believe is 8" metalbestos chiminey. i have installed several stoves for friends, and although i didnt do this one, it looked good. the outside chiminey has a rise of approx 12-14 ft.

the stove is about six months old , and has not been run much, as she thought it was defective. she asked me to come take a look at it, i started it, and right away saw a setting of 2 for fuel feed and 9 for blower speed. i set both at 5-5 and it was putting out heat.

thank you for the heads up with the lff/lba, i will try to rest those this week sometime.
mike
 
Does anyone hear a future post due to we bought the simpsons vent kit (we smell smoke every time the stove lights up).
 
I think just about everyone that bought the simpsons vent kit applied a lot of tape and silicone.
 
TLHinCanada said:
Does anyone hear a future post due to we bought the simpsons vent kit (we smell smoke every time the stove lights up).
Click to expand...

ummmm...NO! i am not a newby here.i have belonged to this forum since i started burning pellets...maybe 3-4 yrs now. my low post count means nothing. i come here and read ALOT of info. i have worked on many englander stoves in my area, and mike holten can attest to that. i have installed every stove in my general area. this particular stove was not installed by me, but i was asked to take a look at it for a friend.also, this is the first time i have worked with a stove of this model number.


if all you can do is make stupid comments, please keep them to yourself. not everyone can afford top of the line materials, we all do the best we can.
 
I'm sorry you feel that way, but, every joint on my simpsons multi-fuel has leaked. To the point where I asked CSA to review the certification. I'm sure if you review past posts you will see that it is not an isolated problem.
 
I have an Englander and Simpson Duravent and currently have no problem with either .I originally burned pellets called "Sure Fire" and they hardly made any heat either and jammed up my stove. Now I have been burning " Okanagan " pellets and its like night and day for heat.I can actually heat my whole house with the stove set to 5 - 5. And No ,I don't work for either company.
Pete..
 
TLHinCanada said:
I'm sorry you feel that way, but, every joint on my simpsons multi-fuel has leaked. To the point where I asked CSA to review the certification. I'm sure if you review past posts you will see that it is not an isolated problem.
Click to expand...

I also have and Englander 25-EP with a Simpson Dura-Vent and have had NO problems. (except a bad fan). If the vent seams leak, tape them or seal them with RTV as recomended by Simpson. If all else fails, read the installation instructions.
 
I have no problems with the stove. I find it hard to believe that a vent pipe designed to carry carbon monoxide inside a residence has to have the joints taped or use silicone to seal them together so it doesn't leak lethal gases. As I stated this venting is multi-fuel which is a different product than dura-vent (I think). I am going to change my vent in the spring to selkirk, which I hope works better. Again this is only a personal opinion drawn from observations I have made. My opinion may have been colored by the fact that we are only allowed to use multi-fuel pipe up here and other than the kit you can't buy any extra pieces. I will admit it was my fault for not finding out about the different manufacturers and availability before I bought it, but it was on sale and the salesman assured me that extra venting pieces were easy to get. It maybe that the selkirk leaks just as much, in which case I'll just shake my head and silicone and tape the joints together.
 
Meanwhile, back on the original topic...
 
biggest thing is the lack of insulation which was touched on early on, heating with convection in an uninsulated space is extremely demanding on the unit due to the heat absorbtion of the concrete. adding insulation will help trap the heat and once we can trap it the stove should do a lot better.

this is a common issue i deal with and im sure my counterparts in the industry run into similar calls. heating with pellets you are heating air and transporting energy into the space to be heated. unlike a woodstove which "radiates" heat into the solids and everything heats up from that.
 
TLHinCanada said:
I have no problems with the stove. I find it hard to believe that a vent pipe designed to carry carbon monoxide inside a residence has to have the joints taped or use silicone to seal them together so it doesn't leak lethal gases. As I stated this venting is multi-fuel which is a different product than dura-vent (I think). I am going to change my vent in the spring to selkirk, which I hope works better. Again this is only a personal opinion drawn from observations I have made. My opinion may have been colored by the fact that we are only allowed to use multi-fuel pipe up here and other than the kit you can't buy any extra pieces. I will admit it was my fault for not finding out about the different manufacturers and availability before I bought it, but it was on sale and the salesman assured me that extra venting pieces were easy to get. It maybe that the selkirk leaks just as much, in which case I'll just shake my head and silicone and tape the joints together.
Click to expand...

If you expect a twist and lock vent system to be leak free you are in for a rude awakening. Even threaded gas pipe needs a sealant to be leak free. Vent pipes are made out of flexible sheet metal and not ridgid steel.
 
Don't some brands have gaskets at the joints? Seems like they shouldn't leak, especially at the prices they charge.
 
heat seeker said:
Don't some brands have gaskets at the joints? Seems like they shouldn't leak, especially at the prices they charge.
Click to expand...

Yes, some venting has gaskets at the joints and if installed correctly do not leak. ICC is one such brand. However improper installation can render any venting full of leaks.
 
Waterbug said:
If you expect a twist and lock vent system to be leak free you are in for a rude awakening.
Click to expand...

You're in for a rude awakening because the twist lock joints work just fine. Every single factory seam and joint on the other hand was choochin' smoke all over the place.

count me in the "DuraVent is complete crap" camp. It seems to be OK for some folks but Simpson has some serious quality control issues if there are this many people having problems with it.

Anyways, that's way off topic for this thread.
 
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