Creosote issue

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sclarke

sclarke

Member
Oct 21, 2011
17
Cincinnati, OH
I just started using a woodstove and already there is alot of creosote buildup. before I installed the stove I bought a brush and cleaned the chimney. I thought the wood I was using was seasoned well enough, but that is alot of creosote in a short time. I need some help with this.
I have an old regular Buck insert with no liner. the flue is 12" square masonry. I dont know if the size of the chimney is what is causing it. also, I read somewhere that when you choke the fire down overnight this causes the creosote to build up. I choke the fire down at night but it has burned out by morning so I am not sure what else I could be doing wrong. I guess I am just not making hot enough fires. I would really appreciate any advice. I know I am to run reasonably hot and use seasoned wood but what are the other culprits? or do I just need to clean the chimney every week?
thanks
 
How much are you talking? Can you provide photos inside your chimney w before and after cleaning pics or at least give an educated guess as to how much creasote you are building in a week using a "cup" as the estimate of measure?

also, what is your set up? Chimney through the house or running outside? Is there a cleanout at the bottom of the chimney?

I am far from the expert and you will get better input I am sure but it is very likely the large tile chimney is part of the cause because it is tough to get it hot enough all the way up. This can be magnified many times if you have a cleanout that is not sealed well allowing cool air to be sucked in and subsequently cooling your exhaust. Sealing the cleanout will not only help with creasote but likely help you burn much more eficiently. Best option(translate: cost effective)from the little information provided and under the circumstances would be to have a stainless chimney liner installed, insulated if affordable. This will burn hotter, safer and draw better than the open tile chimney alone.

again, I am not the expert but these are some options I would look into to start.

Bob Urban
 
When the wood gases (smoke) leaves the stove its velocity is slowed down a lot by the wide chimney throat. That, plus the cold temperature of the chimney is allowing the smoke to condense as creosote. Burning unseasoned wood will greatly exacerbate this situation because a lot of heat is lost to boiling off the water in the wood.

This is a potentially very dangerous situation. It would be especially bad if the masonry chimney is not tile lined or if the tiles are not in excellent condition. This type of installation is called a slammer and is no longer allowed. If you want to keep the old Buck, the chimney should get a stainless liner installed that is directly connected to the stove. And if the chimney is raw-brick on the inside, the liner should be insulated. Doing this, plus burning only seasoned wood should dramatically reduce creosote production. Replacing the stove with a modern EPA stove + dry wood could eliminate creosote accumulation almost completely.
 
Thanks for the fast response
It is ceramic lined. I do not know what you mean by a "clean out." I would guess that this is where you dump the ashes.
the creosote is like someone took tar and poured it around the edge of the chimney.
it is what you would call a "slammer." I did ask a wood stove salesman about this and he felt it would be ok, though obviously a liner would be the best.
I did not want to purchase a liner because of the clearance on top of the stove. I am not sure how I would attach the adapter from a rectangle to a circle and still fit it in the fireplace and then connect it to the liner.
also, we have a heat pump and so the electric bills have not been that high. so I didnt want to invest lots of money right away because I am not sure if the savings will be that much.
it is a one story brick ranch (1300 sq ft). I dont know what it would cost to install the liner but probably about $500-$1000.
But if the consensus here is that this is not a good setup that is dangerous, then I may need to go that route and invest the money.
also, the fireplace has a damper and so I am not sure how I would get a liner through there. it would have to be flattened and bent somehow.
thanks
SC
 
"cleanout" is at the bottom of the masonry chimney either in the basement or outside depending on set up. This is a small door that you can open to, well, clean it out. Convenient for obvious reasons but a real source of cold air that is drawn up the chimney if not sealed well. If you have a good fire going you could probably tell if it is sucking air by just listening but using a lighter around the door will tell you if air is coming in if the flame bends of goes out. Seal it up with high temp silicone or other sealer and this should help. I am not sure the price on a liner and it will be by the foot so that depends on height of your chimney. I would venture to guess the obstacles you speak of(flu damper, etc..) are common and can be overcome rather simply with a proper install. You certainly do not want to bend, crimp or otherwise restrict air flow in the liner so have a pro give you an estimate. Estimates should be free and you could get more than one to compare price. Safety is paramount when lighting fires inside your home. I am sure there is a rather simple and not over the top solution regarding cost. I know my whole class A chimney and stove install was under 3G and all you are doing is installing a liner.

How handy are you? may be able to DIY it for the cost of the liner and your time. Keep asking questions here - these guys/gals are a great resource
 
Thanks.
I will try to locate the parts necessary to install a liner. does the diameter matter? I have seen 8 or 6 inch. since the chimney has a prefabricated ceramic/ clay liner should I definitely get a double walled stainless liner or could I use something else? also, do I need to run it up the entire chimney or only so many feet high? any recommendations for these types of supplies?
sincerely
SC
 
I'm guessing that for an old Buck you will need an 8" liner. I would carry it all the way up to the chimney top. The clay liner must be thoroughly cleaned first before installing. There should be no remaining creosote in the chimney. Make sure the damper smoke shelf is cleaned too.

I realize that this is an expense, so consider getting a modern stove to provide a better long term experience. It will allow you to drop down to a 6" liner and will burn less wood + less cleanings + cleaner glass = nicer fireview. All of these points have value even above the actual monetary ROI. It's a long term investment that will provide lots of pleasure for years to come. There are some decent values in inserts. How large a space are you trying to heat?

For liners I like to work with Sean at www.dynamitebuys.com. But there are other sources.

PS: We have a heat pump too and wood is not free often. Still, the stove offers greater comfort and a much needed alternative source of heat for long power outages.
 
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