Quality of your Kindling

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Huntindog1

Minister of Fire
Dec 6, 2011
1,879
South Central Indiana
Wanted to post this as a topic on its own as I mentioned it in another post.

This morning once again as I took a piece of my good dried white oak that looked like it would split into kindling easy and made some 1" approx square kindling.

As I have posted many times but I will repeat for any newbies that happen across this posting, that I raked my coals forward opening up the back of the stove all the way to the bottom of the stove so I could stack a big split on the bottom of my stove so as its not on any hot coals. This is my long burn time log. But since I am now able to start at the bottom of the stove I can usually with picking out sizes I need , I can get 3 splits stack on top of each other on that back row up to the secondary burn tubes.

Then I start the next 2nd row of splits and I usually can get the coals raked far enough forward so that second row is on hot coals. I usually get 2 pre-selected splits stack on top of each other on that 2nd row.

My stove is only 14.5" deep so I only have room for one more 3rd row but I leave it open as that row I am going to stack my kindling. As I like to get my stove heated up fast so I can get off to work in the mornings. Plus some of us our setups dont heat up quickly on restarts, so this info is for those hard to get the heat up stoves.

So I mention quality of kindling as we are always talking quality of the big stuff on Hearth.com. I have been using some poplar that seem to split up nicely into small kindling size sticks. Poplar isnt a high BTU wood. It will burn especially if split small so it acts like a good kindling, kind of fooled me. See all those flames but not always getting the stove heated up quickly like I wanted. I am a believer that getting things heated up quickly means burning less of your big stuff in the stove thats needed for your long burn times. Plus if you load up in the back on no coals all the way to the bottom your not going to be getting heat back there for your startup. So you want and need the front of the stove to heat up quickly so that only the front of the stove is burning hot letting the fire once you get things cooking , "burn front to back".

What has amazed me after I decide to sacrifice my good dry white oak for kindling is if I lay those 1" splits , 4 or 5 of them on that empty front 3rd row right on the hot coals that my stove takes off like a rocket. Up to heat and ready to shut down the air in like 10 or 12 minutes. Which I know many of you get that type performance with bigger splits but my setup with a little bit too big of a flue isnt so easily heated up that quick.

So I hope this helps someone that if you have hard a time getting things going on reloads that try some higher quality kindling as the BTU's are definitely higher making things take off quicker.
 
I always keep excellent kindling on hand. It makes for easy starts and keeps my wife happy. My favorites are cabinetry and moulding scraps. Unfinished flooring and carpentry scraps are pretty nice too.
 
We got some scotch pine over the summer that was standing dead for a few years. We split it and stacked it in..July maybe? We split that into much smaller pieces last month sometime, it takes off like crazy. It actually works as kindling and a fire starter. We got some more pine (not sure of which type) in November that is still in rounds at the old house that we'll be splitting and seasoning for kindling next year.
 
Huntindog1 said:
Wanted to post this as a topic on its own as I mentioned it in another post.

This morning once again as I took a piece of my good dried white oak that looked like it would split into kindling easy and made some 1" approx square kindling.

As I have posted many times but I will repeat for any newbies that happen across this posting, that I raked my coals forward opening up the back of the stove all the way to the bottom of the stove so I could stack a big split on the bottom of my stove so as its not on any hot coals. This is my long burn time log. But since I am now able to start at the bottom of the stove I can usually with picking out sizes I need , I can get 3 splits stack on top of each other on that back row up to the secondary burn tubes.

Then I start the next 2nd row of splits and I usually can get the coals raked far enough forward so that second row is on hot coals. I usually get 2 pre-selected splits stack on top of each other on that 2nd row.

My stove is only 14.5" deep so I only have room for one more 3rd row but I leave it open as that row I am going to stack my kindling. As I like to get my stove heated up fast so I can get off to work in the mornings. Plus some of us our setups dont heat up quickly on restarts, so this info is for those hard to get the heat up stoves.

So I mention quality of kindling as we are always talking quality of the big stuff on Hearth.com. I have been using some poplar that seem to split up nicely into small kindling size sticks. Poplar isnt a high BTU wood. It will burn especially if split small so it acts like a good kindling, kind of fooled me. See all those flames but not always getting the stove heated up quickly like I wanted. I am a believer that getting things heated up quickly means burning less of your big stuff in the stove thats needed for your long burn times. Plus if you load up in the back on no coals all the way to the bottom your not going to be getting heat back there for your startup. So you want and need the front of the stove to heat up quickly so that only the front of the stove is burning hot letting the fire once you get things cooking , "burn front to back".

What has amazed me after I decide to sacrifice my good dry white oak for kindling is if I lay those 1" splits , 4 or 5 of them on that empty front 3rd row right on the hot coals that my stove takes off like a rocket. Up to heat and ready to shut down the air in like 10 or 12 minutes. Which I know many of you get that type performance with bigger splits but my setup with a little bit too big of a flue isnt so easily heated up that quick.

So I hope this helps someone that if you have hard a time getting things going on reloads that try some higher quality kindling as the BTU's are definitely higher making things take off quicker.

So in the morning your saying if i have coals in the stove i should rack them forward and load wood in the back two rows on the bottom and it will help it last longer? I have just been spreading the coals out and reloading right on top of that. New to this so not sure what is the best to get the longest burn time. I have a hearthstone
 
I'm with BeGreen -

Good kindling aplenty keeps my kids happy with easy fire lighting. The trigger style propane torch is also pretty darnpopular ; )

I have a small metal tray say 18" X 8" that I keep well stocked. If I get low, I will split some nice straight grained DRY ash or the like into shingles with the splitter, then across so they are about an inch square. Any smallish limbs from the yard may end up here in dry weather also.

Enjoy,
Mike P
 
Some do rake the coals forward....I spread them out into a bed....throw on whatever small splits I have...some medium splits...then a coulple of "shorties" (the short pieces left from cutting longer splits to size)....a piece of firestarter, and we off....oooops!...firestarter first. Never paid attention to what the small splits were, they just fit the need at the time
 
So in the morning your saying if i have coals in the stove i should rack them forward and load wood in the back two rows on the bottom and it will help it last longer? I have just been spreading the coals out and reloading right on top of that. New to this so not sure what is the best to get the longest burn time. I have a hearthstone

Yep just one way to do it, there are other ways also, has some advantages depends on your needs. It can increase burn time. It can help prevent over heat condition as not all the wood is catching at once.

I usually just get one back row opened up as my stove is only 14.5" deep. But if I burned my coals down farther I might get the back two rows clear of hot coals.

For Reference check out these pics:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/88397/
 
For years we have used soft maple for kindling because it works so well. Lights fast and easy and burns hot to get the rest of the wood going nicely. We're still using kindling that I made a couple years ago so it is really dry and starts super easy.
 
Definitely keep good kindling on hand. I have a friend w/a fencing & deck business who drops off bags and bags of fence board cut-offs and top rails---all clear cedar which makes for easy splitting into fine pieces. I also have a trailer load of old cedar shake roof shingles from my neighbor who re-roofed 2 summers ago. I've got to be careful with those as those things can just take off in the stove. :gulp:
 
I had a lot of chunks of dry red oak and white ash - all straight grained, but only 6-8" splits. Spent an hour or so a couple days ago splitting a whole bunch into small kindling splits (1-2" square). I've been using 3-4 of these splits on the raked coal bed just before each new load to get the flue hotter and draft going well. Makes a BIG different giving these little kindling splits 15 minutes or so in the stove, vs. just loading splits on the coal bed. The larger splits will always catch on the coal bed, but after the kindling, the splits catch so much faster and the whole process to cruising goes so much faster, I'm sold on kindling before each load. Cheers!
 
Unlike you frequent burners of 50+ splits per day, feeding your hungry metal stoves which
often have glowing coals between feeds, my fires are usually started on a colder bed of ashes.

With 2 - 3 fires a day maximum, I hardly never need small splits to start a fire.

USE DRY WOOD is the simple formula for easy fire starts.

Size of your wood does not matter (it's true, guyz).

Stacked with air spaces and lighting cardboard underneath does the trick.
This is the truth.
Believe it or not.
Either way, you are right.

Aye,
Marty
 
RORY12553 said:
So in the morning your saying if i have coals in the stove i should rack them forward and load wood in the back two rows on the bottom and it will help it last longer? I have just been spreading the coals out and reloading right on top of that. New to this so not sure what is the best to get the longest burn time. I have a hearthstone

If you put some big splits in the back NOT on top of coals they are likely to take a while to ignite and burn more slowly that they would if they were in front or on hot coals. That makes them last longer but since not all of the wood is burning at the same time you won't get as much heat quickly as you might otherwise get. I do this an as long as I get part of the wood burning nicely I can get a nice secondary burn and little or no smoke but a longer burn.
 
Marty S said:
Unlike you frequent burners of 50+ splits per day, feeding your hungry metal stoves which
often have glowing coals between feeds, my fires are usually started on a colder bed of ashes.

With 2 - 3 fires a day maximum, I hardly never need small splits to start a fire.

USE DRY WOOD is the simple formula for easy fire starts.

Size of your wood does not matter (it's true, guyz).

Stacked with air spaces and lighting cardboard underneath does the trick.
This is the truth.
Believe it or not.
Either way, you are right.

Aye,
Marty
So you just start your fires with big splits and carboard?
 
BeGreen said:
I always keep excellent kindling on hand. It makes for easy starts and keeps my wife happy. My favorites are cabinetry and moulding scraps. Unfinished flooring and carpentry scraps are pretty nice too.

Very dry wood + Super Cedars + an ECO BRICK or two per cold start have *completely* eliminated any need for any kindling.

Can't speak for what will/wont work for others or what is economical for others though.

Good post.


<edit>... I guess what I'm saying is that 2 ECO BRICKS + SC are my kindling
 
Kindling is only used for a cold stove. If theres any coals the stove will light up what ever size wood I put in there. It's the bark that lights so easily. Lots of heat or not just depends on how much wood I put in. If theres just a few coals as when I am keeping the house from overheating I will rake them to the front and put the large splits or rounds in knowing everything will be good.
Cold start kindling is really what many here would call small splits. Say 2" by 6". I just do a top down start maybe 3-6" rounds with 4 pieces of kindling. Never have to open the door to add to fire until its good and hot so little or no smoke in house.
For 40 years I started bottom up fires. I sure wish I had known about top down. I think that is the best trick I learned from this site.
 
SmokeyCity said:
BeGreen said:
I always keep excellent kindling on hand. It makes for easy starts and keeps my wife happy. My favorites are cabinetry and moulding scraps. Unfinished flooring and carpentry scraps are pretty nice too.

Very dry wood + Super Cedars + an ECO BRICK or two per cold start have *completely* eliminated any need for any kindling.

Can't speak for what will/wont work for others or what is economical for others though.

Good post.

<edit>... I guess what I'm saying is that 2 ECO BRICKS + SC are my kindling

With SuperCedars I don't need any kindling or compressed bricks. All I need is a couple dry doug fir splits laid N/S, 2 quarters of SC between, and a small fir split laid diagonally on top. Light and walk away. It will be burning well in about 15 minutes.
 
What is kindling?
 
BrotherBart said:
What is kindling?

It's that dead fall, splitter trash, milled cut offs that I collect all year in "almost dead" garbage cans w/lids & cracked side & bottoms.

I think.
 
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