NC-30-Third burn, still same starting problems.

10-cc said:

I have the same setup, frighted it for years. I do not use my stove 24/7, weekends only so frequent start ups so stove temp=outside temp. Tried it all Hair Dryer, torch 1500W electrical heater in the stove for 20 minutes..Nada.

The ONLY solution is this (@your Owen risk $ insurance) But it WORKS:


http://www.tjernlund.com/retail/auto-draft.htm

Also this product is available, I did not tested it, Has anyone?


http://www.hvacsolutionsdirect.com/...-Wood-Stove-Chimney-Draft-Inducer-SKU752.html

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pen said:

KatWill said:

Pen,
Do you stuff the hair dryer before or after you light the stove? does it matter when its done?

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I see no reason it couldn't go there for a few minutes on high w/ the door closed to get things going in the right direction before putting a match to anything.

In all honesty, I've only ever done it after the fact (once smoke starts filling the house). I've had to do it enough times now that I can usually tell it's going to happen and stick the hair dryer back there before much smoke comes in from the pipe joints and the air intake itself.

Regardless, the key is doing it w/ the door closed if you are going to put the hair dryer into the intake. Then the pressurized and warm air you are adding has only one way to go, up.

pen

Please pay no attention to the dirt :red: It is a basement install after all.

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BrotherBart said:

If ya have to do it during a power failure where the hair dryer isn't an option just shift one of the baffle boards over the top of the other one and put a Super Cedar or other fire starter in the back under the flue outlet.

Then move it back in place and start'er up after it starts drawing. Wear the gloves.

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stoveguy2esw said:

one more thing , being as the stove is in the basement (sorry missed that part) you have one more obstacle to deal with , you are below the "zero pressure line' in the house.



you need a 5 gallon bucket and some 3 inch PVC pipe.
drill a 3 inch hole in the sill plate to insert the PVC through, then a 90 elbow down the wall stopping 3 inches off the floor inside of the bucket.

what this will do is let cold air in from outside but trap it in the bucket 9our cold air well. since the air in the basement is warmer than the air coming down the pipe it wil not spill out of the bucket unless teh house "draws" it off the top of the bucket, this air will allow the constant equalization of pressure in the basement with control you would not have if a window were cracked. you only get the air you need for the flu to pull.

its cheap, easy to do and it honestly works.

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