Castille Making High Pitched Whiring Noise

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Augmister

Minister of Fire
Jun 16, 2008
502
Socialist Republic of RI
The stove started making a high pitched, squealing noise coming from the back of the stove, this afternoon. Shut it down and did a good cleaning. Was sure to clean the fan behind the wall on the right, inside stove and got her squeaky clean. As I fired here back up, the noise went on for five minutes, regardless of the fan speed and then tapered off. Comes back on and off, intermittently but seems like something is "going". Any ideas? Pellets are dropping the stove is running and heat is emanating but something isn't right....
 
I read and re-read my owner's manual. On a Castille, do you take the back off the stove (black panel with the seven screws) and is there anything to clean on the back of the exhaust blower? Seems that is where the sound was coming from. I cleaned the convection blowers and no issues there.
 
Augustine,

Maybe the bearings in the motor ? Does the manual say to lube them ?
Could try some 3in1 household oil in bearings , j-takeman has some very good
posts on this site for it.
Good luck
 
Uncle Anthony ... Manual says the bearings are sealed and no lubrication required... after I let it ran, the noise stopped and has not come back for four hours... so far so good. But something isn't right. Stove is exactly 7 years old and if I limp into the end of the season, I will get a new exhaust blower. If it craps out before, I can pull the one off my other stove, if need be. How are the Green Team pellets this year? Could not get any cheap but have used them, happily for five or so seasons.

Any other ideas among the bright bulbs on this site? Comments ALWAYS appreciated!
 
Augustine said:
Uncle Anthony ... Manual says the bearings are sealed and no lubrication required... after I let it ran, the noise stopped and has not come back for four hours... so far so good. But something isn't right. Stove is exactly 7 years old and if I limp into the end of the season, I will get a new exhaust blower. If it craps out before, I can pull the one off my other stove, if need be. How are the Green Team pellets this year? Could not get any cheap but have used them, happily for five or so seasons.

Any other ideas among the bright bulbs on this site? Comments ALWAYS appreciated!

Even though it may have sealed ball bearings, it is possible to put some oil on the ends of the exposed bearing and hope some will work it's way in.....might help out for awhile.

This is what mine looks like on the end, and I put oil on the parts that turn:
 

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UncleAnthony said:
Augustine,

Maybe the bearings in the motor ? Does the manual say to lube them ?
Could try some 3in1 household oil in bearings , j-takeman has some very good
posts on this site for it.
Good luck

Pretty sure they are sealed ball bearings.
 
imacman said:
Augustine said:
Uncle Anthony ... Manual says the bearings are sealed and no lubrication required... after I let it ran, the noise stopped and has not come back for four hours... so far so good. But something isn't right. Stove is exactly 7 years old and if I limp into the end of the season, I will get a new exhaust blower. If it craps out before, I can pull the one off my other stove, if need be. How are the Green Team pellets this year? Could not get any cheap but have used them, happily for five or so seasons.

Any other ideas among the bright bulbs on this site? Comments ALWAYS appreciated!

Even though it may have sealed ball bearings, it is possible to put some oil on the ends of the exposed bearing and hope some will work it's way in.....might help out for awhile.

This is what mine looks like on the end, and I put oil on the parts that turn:

that would work if they are shielded, which it looks like they might be, but not if they are sealed. Of course, if they are really gone and wobbling, then that would make room for oil to get in past the seals. Sure wish they still made STP! That and a hypodermic needle does wonders.
 
Why not pull the plate in front of the blower and spin by hand. See if blower is free or binding and if you can hear the noise. Unplug the stove first. I think your going to need another blower motor.
 
I will pull the back off and try to find something to lube on the back end of the exhaust blower.

Thanks to all for posting here and I agree, after seven years of service, time for a new motor.... just hope I can limp into spring!
 
AZ Pellet Guy said:
Why not pull the plate in front of the blower and spin by hand. See if blower is free or binding and if you can hear the noise. Unplug the stove first. I think your going to need another blower motor.

Good advice. Or, if you can get to the external fan, spin it there. Mine looks like it has sealed bearings with the red plastic seals. Get a new blower and then replace the seals on the old one. Then you have a spare. You might as well bite the bullet now rather than when it seizes up and leaves you cold and helpless.
 
You are right. Will get one now. Any idea what they cost?
 
Last year my 6 year old Castille had the exact same problem. The dealer came out and looked at it, he did a good cleaning. Which I had already done, but he recleaned it anyway to eliminate the possibility of a dirty stove. The unit was not making any noise when the dealer was at my home. He said everything was fine. Well the squeal never did come back. It worked good all last year, and hasn't been a problem this year. I wouldn't order a new convection blower unless the noise is constant.
 
Augustine If you decide to take the combustion motor off your Castile (I do before the start of every season to clean out all the crud) get your self the replacement gasket as the old one usually rips apart.
Just make a note of the connectors you pull apart for later reference. The motor detaches very easily.

P.S. Here is a picture of what mine looked like from the side after removal, but before cleaning
There is a lot of buildup under the fan blades that you cannot see without removing
 

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smalltown said:
Augustine If you decide to take the combustion motor off your Castile (I do before the start of every season to clean out all the crud) get your self the replacement gasket as the old one usually rips apart.
Just make a note of the connectors you pull apart for later reference. The motor detaches very easily.

P.S. Here is a picture of what mine looked like from the side after removal, but before cleaning
There is a lot of buildup under the fan blades that you cannot see without removing


Whoa! Now I know where the "crap" is. As the whirring has stopped, my guess is that I got crud under the blades and either managed to dislodge some or sucked just enough with the vacuum I used inside the blade housing from the stove side. Looks like the ash under the blades is more like the consistency of clinkers? Is it powdery or more solid? ..... Yeah, I can see getting a couple of gaskets and pulling the motor. I can just image what is still under my blades after six seasons!

Excellent pics and thanks so much for your timely and informative post!
 
thz123 said:
Last year my 6 year old Castille had the exact same problem. The dealer came out and looked at it, he did a good cleaning. Which I had already done, but he recleaned it anyway to eliminate the possibility of a dirty stove. The unit was not making any noise when the dealer was at my home. He said everything was fine. Well the squeal never did come back. It worked good all last year, and hasn't been a problem this year. I wouldn't order a new convection blower unless the noise is constant.

Thank you for your post! Seems like I need to pull the motor to get under the blades for a proper cleaning.... six years seems to be a constant! I have not had any issues with my stove, replaced the glass gasket two years ago and do all the recommended cleaning after each ton. But never got under the blades... the missing link! :)
 
I don't think mine was caked on hard , but that was one season burning Maine Chiuce pellets.
I'll bet you haven't pulled the convection blower to clean it either. The good news is that you will also need to pull that unit as part of the process to get at the combustion blower.
Please Pm me with you E-mail I have something to send to you that should help.
 
I was able from behind the right hand wall to get my finger behind the fan to clean the ash that is seen in that picture. I just rotated the blade with my finger. I was thinking of trying a fairly thick bristle pipe cleaner to do the job.
 
Augustine said:
Uncle Anthony ... Manual says the bearings are sealed and no lubrication required... after I let it ran, the noise stopped and has not come back for four hours... so far so good. But something isn't right. Stove is exactly 7 years old and if I limp into the end of the season, I will get a new exhaust blower. If it craps out before, I can pull the one off my other stove, if need be. How are the Green Team pellets this year? Could not get any cheap but have used them, happily for five or so seasons.

Any other ideas among the bright bulbs on this site? Comments ALWAYS appreciated!

Augustine,
I think the Greene Teams are fantastic ! Just got thru two 0degree nights and the Green Team's kept
the house warm. I like them alot and try to get them every year. Good lucj on the motor .My Enviro
has sealed bearings, but I squirted some 3in1 oil on the shaft when it squealed, and the noise disappeared.
 
tjnamtiw said:
imacman said:
Augustine said:
Uncle Anthony ... Manual says the bearings are sealed and no lubrication required... after I let it ran, the noise stopped and has not come back for four hours... so far so good. But something isn't right. Stove is exactly 7 years old and if I limp into the end of the season, I will get a new exhaust blower. If it craps out before, I can pull the one off my other stove, if need be. How are the Green Team pellets this year? Could not get any cheap but have used them, happily for five or so seasons.

Any other ideas among the bright bulbs on this site? Comments ALWAYS appreciated!

Even though it may have sealed ball bearings, it is possible to put some oil on the ends of the exposed bearing and hope some will work it's way in.....might help out for awhile.

This is what mine looks like on the end, and I put oil on the parts that turn:

that would work if they are shielded, which it looks like they might be, but not if they are sealed. Of course, if they are really gone and wobbling, then that would make room for oil to get in past the seals. Sure wish they still made STP! That and a hypodermic needle does wonders.

Using a hypodermic needle is great idea to get into such a small space. I will try that next time.
 
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