Wood Heat vs. single-digit temps, are you winning?

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firebroad said:
vixster said:
FGZ said:
vixster said:
This house has NO insulation between the stucco and plaster walls. The plaster has a nice warm heating effect so I don't want to rip the walls open and replace with sheetrock. Plaster just gives off a lovely warmth it retains.
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Have you considered spray foam from the outside to fill the walls? I don't think the holes are too intrusive and it seems like they would be able to patch them back up easily with stucco. I can't imagine no insulation in the exterior walls, I'm surprised your response wasn't "OMG WE'RE BEING PUMMELED!" lol

@FGZ
FGZ, yes, I have looked into this. Because of the structure, the holes would be every 12 inch top and bottom, because of the horizontal posts. I also have been told that the holes look obvious. Do you know anyone who has done so with plaster / stucco walls? Home was built 1917.. I would be interested in do it if it looks good.
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I had this done in 2007. If done by a reputable company, the patches are invisible. They have kits where they can match up any concrete. I am sure you do not have plaster on your exterior, but if your stucco was painted, I am sure they might be able to match that, too. Best thing is to talk to the company who will be doing the job. This is not a do it yourself project.
Click to expand...

I will look into this again (told by friends holes show no matter what), yes, plaster inside walls, stucco exterior (white) thanks
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vixster said:
firebroad said:
vixster said:
FGZ said:
vixster said:
This house has NO insulation between the stucco and plaster walls. The plaster has a nice warm heating effect so I don't want to rip the walls open and replace with sheetrock. Plaster just gives off a lovely warmth it retains.
Click to expand...

Have you considered spray foam from the outside to fill the walls? I don't think the holes are too intrusive and it seems like they would be able to patch them back up easily with stucco. I can't imagine no insulation in the exterior walls, I'm surprised your response wasn't "OMG WE'RE BEING PUMMELED!" lol

@FGZ
FGZ, yes, I have looked into this. Because of the structure, the holes would be every 12 inch top and bottom, because of the horizontal posts. I also have been told that the holes look obvious. Do you know anyone who has done so with plaster / stucco walls? Home was built 1917.. I would be interested in do it if it looks good.
Click to expand...

I had this done in 2007. If done by a reputable company, the patches are invisible. They have kits where they can match up any concrete. I am sure you do not have plaster on your exterior, but if your stucco was painted, I am sure they might be able to match that, too. Best thing is to talk to the company who will be doing the job. This is not a do it yourself project.
Click to expand...

I will look into this again (told by friends holes show no matter what), yes, plaster inside walls, stucco exterior (white) thanks
Click to expand...

Sorry, misunderstood about the plaster! Yes, I have plaster walls inside, as well. If you are concerned about the insulation blowing them out, don't. Again, these guys know what they are doing. I cannot really speak for stucco, but I have what is called a slip-stone exterior, which is a cinder-block frame that is veneered with mortar and flagstone. Although if I really look for the injection sites, I can find most of them, but I really have to look. Though not completely invisible, they are by no means obvious.
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Thanks Jim,sounds like we have a handle on it,though a 600 with the Rangeley sounds a little much i see why you would want another stove worthy of an overnight burn.I wouldn't mind having a little bigger f-box myself.Thinking of leaving the boiler in for backup and we use it for water but maybe putting in a hot water heater with shutoffs so we can use either 1 whenever.I bet it would be cheaper.
 
Winning here. It really helps that I have over 20 feet of single wall going up to the chimney connector. Over 70 at all times if I am here to feed the old stove. I was still able to hold 70 or better, even with single digits and high winds. Since this is a new installation, I really didn't know if I would have to use NG to supplement. As it turns out, things are taking care of themselves here without even any ceiling fans. It costs me exactly two dollars in gas per month to run the standing pilot in my direct vent wall heater. It is set to keep things from freezing in the event of no wood heating, but has yet to even come on.

Long story short, I am tickled pink about how well this experiment has turned out for me. I rarely get this lucky!

Need to charge my digi cam and post up some pics, as this install is somewhat unusual in some ways.

Happy burning to you all.
 
arborealbuffoon said:
Winning here. It really helps that I have over 20 feet of single wall going up to the chimney connector. Over 70 at all times if I am here to feed the old stove. I was still able to hold 70 or better, even with single digits and high winds. Since this is a new installation, I really didn't know if I would have to use NG to supplement. As it turns out, things are taking care of themselves here without even any ceiling fans. It costs me exactly two dollars in gas per month to run the standing pilot in my direct vent wall heater. It is set to keep things from freezing in the event of no wood heating, but has yet to even come on.

Long story short, I am tickled pink about how well this experiment has turned out for me. I rarely get this lucky!

Need to charge my digi cam and post up some pics, as this install is somewhat unusual in some ways.

Happy burning to you all.
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Congratulations!
 
In 2003, we got a VC Madison (maximum 39k btu output) stove. I used to lose the battle in the low teens.

In 2010, we added a Jotul Rockland 550 (maximum 65k btu output) insert. Total is 104k btu/hr rated and situated in living space. :-D

For reference, the gas furnace (87k btu output into uninsulated ducts through uninsulated basement and uninsulated wall cavities) can keep the house 65 degrees when its -10 and very windy outside. If I ever need more wood heat, it will be because I ran out of dry wood.
 
Its 20 degrees and blowing hard here today. The Elm in the basement is 850 stove top and the 1st floor is 63 degrees. I'm ordering up another stove and getting foam for the basement walls soon.
 
To quote Charlie Sheen: "WINNING!"

-25 °F last weekend, no problemo! And not 1 minute of running the furnace!

Single digits above zero? The stove and I laugh heartily as we spend time together in the living room. A symbiotic relationship to be sure, I give it wood and it gives me heat.
 
Winning+ here in the Jersey Alps. With my old Vigilant in this 1000 sf space this is the first time I've been able to keep the 16x22 16' cath ceiling room and adjacent kitchen at no hotter than 76 or a bit lower. No one should have to look at a sweaty fat old guy mostly naked all day, including me.

OTOH the mild winter so far had me fooled into thinking that my combo of old wood, 8 mo downed Ash and a trunk-load of Eco Bricks would get us through 'til March. Unless the winter continues mild I'll be trading crack for something to burn.

Unfortunately both my burning neighbors switched to pellets this year so no black pajama 2 a.m. raids with my rubber wheeled wagon, damned inconsiderate neighbors. Plus they taunt me "how's your arthritis and bad left leg," referring to watching me splitting and stacking wood, However, sitting in their respective houses with a beer in front of their stoves and watching the magnificent "display" put out by pellets I have the urge to shout out "this is just goofy, might as well be sitting in in front of a plastic fireplace fueled by a GD orange bulb!"

Littlalex
 
A week ago it hit -28*C and the T-stat was reading 22*C. The heat pump is set to come on at 17*C. I can live with a 50 degree spread. :). The MBR is always the coldest room in the hours and it was 18 or 19. House is a bungalow with finished basement. Main floor is about 1800 sqft. Basement doubles that.
 
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