Freezer efficiency/ fixing door gasket

If it is just a matter of getting it to fit snug, I have seen folks use various things to hold the door shut more securely. My BIL has screwed a couple eye hooks into his and secures the door with a bungie cord, that provides good tension to hold it shut quite well insuring a good seal. Not really pretty, but functional. I'm sure there are more attractive solutions as well...

E.

We have a 15 year old Sears fridge. Not a freezer but bear with me.

I noticed what sounds like the same thing about 5 years ago. Hinge on right, handle to open door on left, at the top. There was a noticable gap at the top left. Upon lots of closer inspection & much exacting measurement (eye balling), I determined that the door was warped. So, I rounded up some (3) pipe clamps from my woodworking area, and set out to unwarp it. I clamped one pair of clamps front to back on the hinge side, top & bottom, to maintain its position. I opened the door just a touch, just enough to put a wood block (think I used a piece of 2x4) at bottom left, and put the third clamp front to back at top left. I tightened that one until the door straightened out. After a few careful clamp adjustments & procedures, the door closed perfect all the way around, and it has stayed that way. Cost = 0.

I don't think it was that way when we got it - but didn't pay it much attention, being a new fridge & all. Only thing I can think that caused it was years of being yanked open at the top left corner.

Hope that helped.

Before you think about a new freezer at any time, put a Kill-o-Watt or similar on your existing freezer and see what the electrical use actually is. I had a 1950's vintage refrig, bad gaskets, that I thought I should replace, both for size/looks and energy savings. After checking on its actual use of electricity, it beat the new Energy Star numbers.

If it is a freezer on top, check the top hinge. The have some play in them if they get loose. Sometimes a slight adjustment and re-tightening of the screws can make a difference. Try the dollar bill test around the perimeter, just like a stove door.

I also think the door is warped. It's just sheet metal. When mine did that, I just grabbed the two corners opposite the hinges, and twisted the door, not too hard. A couple of times of that, and the door sealed just fine.

jebatty said:

I had a 1950's vintage refrig, bad gaskets, that I thought I should replace, both for size/looks and energy savings. After checking on its actual use of electricity, it beat the new Energy Star numbers.

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Oh the joys of R-12. I miss it...

To the OP, honestly keep your freezer if you can get it to stop leaking air. I have used hasps in the past to seal up leaky freezer doors and it works quite well. I have a large older upright that used to be R-12 that I converted over to 406a due to a leak. Ill run that ole girl till she flat out quits. It uses next to nothing for electricity and never gives me any problems. The seal is a little leaky, but not enough for me to fuss over. Keep your freezer, the new ones arent built like yours, I promise.