Buy chimney now?

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cricketfarmer

New Member
Jan 12, 2012
32
central illinois
I don't have a stove yet, but I'm planning on getting one this coming summer. I see that Menards has Supervent class A stainless steel 6" x 36" chimney sections on sale for $54.95. Is this a good price, or can I do better elsewhere? Is Supervent a good product, or should I stay away from it? I have a big, old, two story farmhouse and I plan on running the chimney up through the middle of the house. There used to be a chimney which I removed years ago, so running a new chimney would only require removing the patches I put in on floors and ceilings. I will need approximately 30-35 feet of chimney. The chimney will need to jog about 3 feet in the attic in order to exit at the peak where the old chimney was. What else will I need and where can I get expert advise on installing it correctly? I do all my own work and I always want to do the best job I can which is why I'm asking about the quality of Supervent. Also, since I've never installed a chimney, I don't know how much I don't know so I could use all the help I can get. Thanks!
Tom
 
I have not seen any prices that low. I paid $85 a few months ago from lowes and that was about as low of a price as I had seen anywhere. My supervent is doing what it is supposed to do so I am happy with it.
 
If you can, buy what ever is on sale. If you don't need it you can always bring it back. Just hold on to your receipt. Frank
 
I have used supervent for years, never had a problem.Most people speak highly of it, by my research.I don't know if you will have to pay shipping from menards but lowes will match any sale price.
 
Whatever you end up installing, you'll use single-wall or double-wall stovepipe (connector pipe) from the appliance up to the first penetration of the structure. At that point, you'll need an appropriate support box/adapter and you'll transition to Class A chimney pipe from there to daylight. When planning for the "jog" in the attic space, keep in mind that Class A chimney elbows are only available in 15° and 30° flavors...no 45°'s. Both manufacturers and retailers have all sorts of configuration/installation information available online so you can get real smart about it before you dive in. We're always here to help, as well, of course. Rick

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/installing_a_woodstove
 
Maybe you can down load their manual online, that's what I did and it helped a lot with some of the pieces.
 
Thanks for all your input. I guess I'll start accumulating all the parts I need now for the installation later this summer. Is late winter/early spring the time to get the best prices on stoves, or should I wait until summer?
 
I have the same plan as you doing all the research now and install before next winter. I am amazed at this price and to be honest in disbelief, so I checked it out myself and your right and it has the exact product code as the stuff lowes sells for $86, thats a serious big difference. Plus that means if they don't have all the right adapters or if you need an extra stick or anything, lowes products will match right up. For 7 links of it shipping from there will cost me $64 which is still a $150 difference. Just my opinion here....buy it quick the sale is over in a couple days and thanks for the info.
 
I bought my pipe from Menards the supervent and have no problems yet. This is my second year with it and you can not beat the price. My local Lowes would not match the price from Menards since Menards is about 30 miles away so they said they would not match the price. Lowes wanted like 85 dollars a piece versus the 54 at Menards. I stopped going to Lowes.
 
Thanks again for your feedback. I guess I'll be taking the first step toward my wood burning goal today by purchasing my chimney parts. Well, this would actually be my second step, since I'm already collecting firewood. :)
 
I have a few more questions. I've read on this forum of others installing a damper on really tall chimneys, like the one I'm planning, because of really strong draft. Should I be getting a damper now, or wait until everything is working and see at that point if I need one? Is a damper hard to install after everything is up and running? Also, as to cleaning the chimney, can this be done from inside the house or do I need to do it from the top? I really hope I won't need to go up on the roof again after the installation is done. It's very steep with slate shingles and located right at the peak where all four sides of the roof meet, so there's no good place to stand. If it can be cleaned from inside the house, are there special parts I need to install to allow access for cleaning?
 
I have a damper on my pipe about 3 ft above my stove and I do use it. I have read on the forum some people use and believe in and some people do not believe in. It is pretty simple to put in stove pipe. I used my first pipe the one with the damper from the person I got the used stove from so I did not put in myself all the rest of chimney is new. But, I have heard on the forum it is easy to install. I do use the damper and it helps give me more heat from the load in the stove. I only damper the pipe just a quarter turn no more and only after I have a good burn going and I lower my air on stove. I have a tall chimney also.

I do not know all the ins and outs about the being able to clean the chimney from the inside or outside. I am sure other more experienced people on the forum can tell you more. I clean mine from the inside.

Hope I have helped you and the real experienced forum members will chime in with more help. This is my second season of burning and I have learned so much from the experienced members on this forum it is unbelieveable.

The main thing I have learned is and the most important thing is seasoned wood. Having it seasoned good is the key to operation. Good Luck.
 
I also purchased Selkirk SuperVent class A chimney pipe from Menards. This price is very good. As others have said, get it now on sale. Buy enough. You can always take it back.

Installation is easy if you have some basic skills. Since you're going straight up, be sure you properly frame the ceiling opening to provide good support for your Ceiling Decorator Support. It's not difficult but this is what supports the weight of your class A chimney.

Search for my posts. You'll see my step by step posting for how I installed my class A SuperVent chimney. It's the same general install as yours. The big differences are that you will have a greater number of chimney sections and will have transitions through multiple floors. Each time the class A pipe passes through a floor/ceiling a special floor stop/ fire stop is required.
 
Well, I went and bought my chimney pipe today. I haven't purchased all the other elbows and parts that I will need yet because they weren't on sale and I won't be doing the installation until summer. Now to start thinking seriously about which stove to purchase. For that purchase I will need my wife's blessing, so I'm in the discussion phase with her, only now the discussion takes an unexpected turn. She tells me that while I'm working in the living room, could I remove that door we never use? Can that short wing wall be removed because it will interfere with the new traffic pattern? Can you remove all the wallpaper, patch the walls, and paint the room? She says "you know we'll need new carpeting if you build that hearth pad and remove that wall". It looks like I'll be busy this summer. And yes, I'll try to remember to take before and after pictures for those of you that are interested. Wish me luck!
 
cricketfarmer said:
Well, I went and bought my chimney pipe today. I haven't purchased all the other elbows and parts that I will need yet because they weren't on sale and I won't be doing the installation until summer. Now to start thinking seriously about which stove to purchase. For that purchase I will need my wife's blessing, so I'm in the discussion phase with her, only now the discussion takes an unexpected turn. She tells me that while I'm working in the living room, could I remove that door we never use? Can that short wing wall be removed because it will interfere with the new traffic pattern? Can you remove all the wallpaper, patch the walls, and paint the room? She says "you know we'll need new carpeting if you build that hearth pad and remove that wall". It looks like I'll be busy this summer. And yes, I'll try to remember to take before and after pictures for those of you that are interested. Wish me luck!

I hear ya . . . I ended up taking down a wall and moving it back two feet since my wife thought it would be better that way . . . and we painted, did the ceiling and did the flooring . . . although that came a year or so afterwards.

Cricket farming? Gotta ask . . . you actually raise crickets . . . assuming this must be for the petfood industry (snakes, lizards, etc.) and that you're not milking them or anything like that . . . because if you are I'd love to see a video of you milking these crickets by hand . . . or with a machine. ;)
 
"And yes, I’ll try to remember to take before and after pictures for those of you that are interested. Wish me luck! "
First, I'll welcome you to the Hearth. Now, I'll wish you luck! :coolsmile:
Lastly, the part about those of us interested in pics is funny, because I think the percentage is somewhere around 99%.
Just remember, if we don't see pics, it never happened. :cheese:
I missed the sale on the pipe, but even at their regular price, it's still 20-some bucks cheaper than Lowe's.
 
Yeah, I raise crickets, meal worms and super worms for pet shops and bait shops. I think I'll try wax worms next. They're good for ice fishing. You're right about not milking them, my hand are too big :lol: I do have people ask me how I breed them. My reply is that it's not very difficult. You know, turn the lights down low and play some Barry White on the stereo to get them in the mood. The only hard part is helping them light their little cigarettes afterward! :lol:
 
cricketfarmer you are to funny.
 
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