indoor boiler outdoors.

I was really surprised how little heat my EKO radiates....It is in an outside, poorly insulated shed right now, but you can work around it comfortably, lay your hands right on it and the stack most of the time.
The problem with mine is I am worried about it freezing where it is right now, so I will be heating the slab soon & insulating the room better so I don't have to run it as much to keep it from freezing up while the temps are so low.

Funny you should ask. I was showing my father just this morning how you can put your hand on my Tarm when it's running full bore and not really detect anything more than room temperature. So the answer is no, radiating heat from the boiler isn't part of the charm.

I have my boiler in a 12 x 14 shed 12' tall. The shed is well insulated and usually stayes above 80 F inside, probly mostly from the 8' of single wall pipe inside. The sigle wall pipe never gets much over 350 F on the outside and you can put your hand on it for a couple of seconds. the boiler skins dont get hot at all. It makes a niceplace to be to load, clean, dry snow off, warm up quick, etc. I can also store over a cord of wood in the shed and have 1000 gallonthermal storage in there. I didn't want the mess in the house either. I had a wood burner inside before and had fly ash all over and bark and stuff would fall on the floor. My insurance wouldn't let me put it in the shop.

I had my EKO40 in an uninsulated building. Triple wall pipe for a chimney. My experience with that is if I want the boiler room to be cozy when it's really cold I will have to put some sort of heating element in the same building . Whether it's storage or base board or what ever I think the greatest asset you can have in a detatched boiler shed is thick insulation. The blower on the EKO probably compromised most of the infrared radiant via air flow. A good boiler shed will have enough ventilation leaks or a dedicated ducting system to support the boiler working properly.

I leave the window cracked when it's runing shut it when it's not. I aim for no air leaks, but still have a couple.

Mine is in an unattached garage that is insulated, but not airtight by any means. My boiler is an insulated room in one corner of garage. Approx 8x12 with 10ft ceiling. I run with storage, my unit is shut down for a few hours every day. Room stays above freezing during shut down. The boiler itself is cool to the touch. But the stack and black iron pipe throws a good bunch of heat. During shut down that black iron pipe holds a lot of residual heat. My black pipe runs the length of room before it leaves the boiler room. In cold like this(-20) obviously i need more fires or longer burns. Room stays warm.

What I also did was run 2 inch conduit from house to boiler room. I can always pull a couple of small pex lines from my storage to boiler room and hook up a panel rad with a t-stat on the rad. This would tie into my radiant well. IMO, if you built a good insulated boiler room, you'd be alright. I would also build the room big enough for a flat panel TV and small frig. Just for those wild and wooly nights, might need to watch the fire for extended periods of time. Your buddies will see the satellite dish hanging off of the building and they will be impressed. When they see the outside light on, you'll have company.

I have mine in a separate room off of my garage. As posted above, I also had a wood boiler in my basement at one point. The mess, bugs, smell when re-loading got old, and I eventually pulled it out & burned oil ( when it was cheaper)

Consider local codes. Where I live an indoor boiler that is not in the building it is heating is considered an outdoor boiler for code purposes. In my case that lumps me in with the times of year burning is allowed, minimum chimney height etc. This all has to do with nuisance smoke from OWBs.

Finally, regarding the room/ shed. I would recommend good home construction techniques, and room for some wood storage inside. I also have a bathroom and slop sink in my boiler room, but no cable tv. My back up heat, an oil boiler is also there, which simplified my piping configuration. I have my storage in the basement of the house. If you have only your wood boiler in the shed/ outdoor room, and it's well insulated, some electric baseboard heat would prevent a freeze up if you weren't burning.

Just my $ .02

That's the same reason I insulated my shed well. If somthing broke or I needed to be away I could just plug in an electric heater
and be good to go.

A few feet of smoke pipe gives off a lot more heat than these boilers. I have about 8 feet of Class A chimney (at an angle) in my boiler room and it keeps it plenty toasty.

Why not go with an e-classic. It should plumb easily to your existing set up and is EPA compiant with a 25 year warranty. Love Mine.

The 2400 has some upgrades from the 2300, which I think are good. I'm sure in 6-10 years there will be more. I initally thought you were talking about 6-10 years before the state makes a move on the uncertified boilers. Seems they want to regulate us to death. Independant power in Greene is the dealer I used. He is a great guy to talk to. I'm not sure about the warranty being pro-rated. Luckily I have not had to use it yet.

I built a new house last year. It's a 3k sf cape with a 10x27 mud room and 40x36 garage, radiant floors throughout, over near Waterville. I went overboard on making sure everything is very tight and highly insulated. The bank wanted a primary heat source, so I put in a New York Thermals on demand propane boiler. This is 97% efficient and vents through four inch pvc. I added the CB e-classic this year. I am still learning how to best operate this. It's not hard, just learning the stove. I luckily ran into four cord of tree length that was left by a crew that cut a lot the year prior and the landowner wanted it removed. I had been cutting wood all summer, but it was not seasoned. I ended up with another 17 cord that is drying now. The stove does prefer seasoned wood. It has been described to me the if the wood is not seasoned then some of the heat is wasted drying the wood prior to it burning. This is mostly important to get the manufacturers efficiency rating, it will burn other, but not efficiently. You are therefore not getting all the heat that you could be getting. There is very little smoke and very little maintenance. I clean fly ash from the bottom reaction chamber every two or three weeks and really thats about it. If things around the blower ports look like they are building some creosote they can be cleaned. I have done this once. I started the stove 10-28-11 and have used about 3.5 cord so far. The house is usually about 72 and the garage/mud room is 55. I find that when the weather is cold (teens) all day the garage drags the system down. I am going to add some heat storeage to try to even this out. I could not be happier with the stove though. I get 12-14 hour burns when it's cold (0-teens) and 24 hour burns when it's moderate (above 20). My parents have an old Taylor OWB. They fill there two or three times to my once. Hope this helps.

Sorry, I left out that I also have a full daylight basement with a western view. I have radiant in the basement, but have it shut off. Leakage from the heat exchanger keeps it about 68 down there. I get all my domestic hot water with the boiler as well.