Let me start by saying that I'm not having a problem -- my Oslo burns reliably at around 525 degrees according to a thermometer in the corner of the stovetop. I'm just curious since other Oslo owners have reported reaching temperatures of 600 or more. If you've seen 600 degrees or higher in the corner of your Oslo stovetop, would you mind sharing how you got it there? I'm not interested in running above 600, but I'm always interested in how other people's stoves behave for them. Thanks!
How do you get your Oslo stovetop to 600 degrees?
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Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
I'm not getting the temps that others are reporting with the Fireview either. I think it's been up around 550 maybe but I'm not sure...I was sleeping at the time. :lol:
I think my lower temps are due to a couple of things: 1) My wood is probably not as dry, and 2) I'll sometimes have a bit of flame in the box after I close the bypass (cat stove) but I think others may give their stoves more air after the combustor is engaged.
I may have to run it a little hotter if it ever gets cold, but in this mild weather I don't. I want to run the stove as gently as I can to minimize wear and tear on the cast iron, cement in the seams, combustor, etc.
I think my lower temps are due to a couple of things: 1) My wood is probably not as dry, and 2) I'll sometimes have a bit of flame in the box after I close the bypass (cat stove) but I think others may give their stoves more air after the combustor is engaged.
I may have to run it a little hotter if it ever gets cold, but in this mild weather I don't. I want to run the stove as gently as I can to minimize wear and tear on the cast iron, cement in the seams, combustor, etc.
Stump_Branch
Minister of Fire
I have hit that temp a few times. When doing so its typically with my better wood, black locust and or oak. I get it by reloading fully on a nice coal bed. Dampner down in stages and ill see the temps shoot up. Typically i need a cold day for this as the chimney draft better. Also for me there has to be some ash in the stove, not in the ash pan but the firebox. Helps insulate a bit.
It will happen, but as always could be a faulty thermo thats not reading high enough. No less than four of them, two on the stove two on/in the pipe.
Good luck.
It will happen, but as always could be a faulty thermo thats not reading high enough. No less than four of them, two on the stove two on/in the pipe.
Good luck.
colebrookman
Minister of Fire
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
Easy answer.
Well seasoned wood + full firebox x bed of coals = Wicked hot fire + secondaries that look like a portal to hell has opened up in your woodstove
Well seasoned wood + full firebox x bed of coals = Wicked hot fire + secondaries that look like a portal to hell has opened up in your woodstove
Stump_Branch
Minister of Fire
firefighterjake said:
Yep, so long as the chimney setup is supplying the stove with the draft it needs to operate properly.
pen
Coach B
Member
A good coalbed and not turning down the air too quickly will get me there. I usually let mine burn down a little more though so it seems to run in the 425-550 range on my average burns.
yaker57
Member
Evidently Oslo Owners are Installing Dampners in the Pipe to get the Temps above 500? I also not able get above 400-500 and that is with Dry Hedge Trees that Dead for yrs before we cut them, it is Very Hard wood....My Doghouse has 3 holes in it as took it apart ...the Baffle is back in place towards back of stove , as saw it moved forward , so Yall mite check Yours...Have Great Draft as We Never get any backdraft or smell....tried leaving ashes in place ...or empty ashes pan...
Fire will Not build from its Own Doghouse Air, even with Hot Coals and putting Dry Hedge on it....have to Open side door to create the Air Flow needed to get quick fire temps...have made My Own Fire Screen for side door.
Understand turning Air wide open and then turn down after getting Temps needed to achieve More Heat....just takes the side door open for a long time before needing to turn down the doghouse air.
So do All Oslo Burners install Dampners ? Will that allow Us other Guys to get the Temps Higher as Thread started about Not getting above 500 ?
Fire will Not build from its Own Doghouse Air, even with Hot Coals and putting Dry Hedge on it....have to Open side door to create the Air Flow needed to get quick fire temps...have made My Own Fire Screen for side door.
Understand turning Air wide open and then turn down after getting Temps needed to achieve More Heat....just takes the side door open for a long time before needing to turn down the doghouse air.
So do All Oslo Burners install Dampners ? Will that allow Us other Guys to get the Temps Higher as Thread started about Not getting above 500 ?
Is it the cat stoves that typically don't burn as hot as measured fron stove top. As many including myself with only secondary burn stoves report temps easily attained in the 750-850 range. I can get there with the primary air and damper fully closed.
yaker57 said:
No, not at all. If the flue provides inadequate draft, one would not add a damper. Please start a separate thread for your stove's specific issues. Every installation is unique.
logger
Minister of Fire
yaker57 said:
I dont have a damper and my stove consistently burns between 500-600 degrees. You say your wood was dead, but how long was it split and stacked? Even dead wood cut in rounds should be split and stacked to season properly, especially hardwoods. My guess is you're having a draft or wood issue. I usually use skinny splits for my first fire, which will get the box up to at least 400-500 degrees. When Ive established a good bed of coals from that first or second load, I will fill the box and keep air open until it hits 500-600 degrees. If I dont pay attention I can easily hit 700+ temps. Once at 500-600 I shut down air in 1/4 intervals at a time, every 10 or 15 minutes.. best of luck. Secondaries kick in easily following these steps, unless there is a draft or wood problem.
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
logger said:
No damper here as well . . . and I have had a few times this winter when I have loaded up my woodstove with primo wood that I have ended up staying up a bit later than I planned due to some fires that were quite hot.
As another member said . . . if you start a separate thread we may be able to figure things out for you . . . could be the fuel, could be a draft issue, etc.
Stump_Branch
Minister of Fire
It's really helpful to hear how other people's stoves run for them. Thanks for all the replies.
As I said earlier, I'm not having problems, but I'm always interested in improving. As for wood, I'm burning oak that has been split and stacked for 3 - 5 years out in the wind and sun. It lights easily, burns easily, with plenty of secondaries and no smoke from the chimney.
The replies so far have helped me understand how some people are operating their stoves when the temperatures reach 600 or above. Unless I'm mis-reading the posts, it sounds like the high temperatures most often occur when the primary air control is still open after a reload. Please correct me if I'm misunderstanding that. Is anyone able to keep the stovetop corner at 600 for an hour with the air control below halfway?
I have plenty of draft, enough that I block off part of the Oslo's intake port to reduce the draft. I just don't know how to tell when I've reduced the draft enough, or if I've reduced it too much or not enough. I'm hoping that once I understand how people are operating their stoves to get higher temperatures, I could try using those same steps at different draft settings on my stove and see if I can improve my own situation.
As I said earlier, I'm not having problems, but I'm always interested in improving. As for wood, I'm burning oak that has been split and stacked for 3 - 5 years out in the wind and sun. It lights easily, burns easily, with plenty of secondaries and no smoke from the chimney.
The replies so far have helped me understand how some people are operating their stoves when the temperatures reach 600 or above. Unless I'm mis-reading the posts, it sounds like the high temperatures most often occur when the primary air control is still open after a reload. Please correct me if I'm misunderstanding that. Is anyone able to keep the stovetop corner at 600 for an hour with the air control below halfway?
I have plenty of draft, enough that I block off part of the Oslo's intake port to reduce the draft. I just don't know how to tell when I've reduced the draft enough, or if I've reduced it too much or not enough. I'm hoping that once I understand how people are operating their stoves to get higher temperatures, I could try using those same steps at different draft settings on my stove and see if I can improve my own situation.
Stump_Branch
Minister of Fire
Pm01, not sure if blocking the intake is helping or hurting you. In order for my setup to get the high temps i reload with the air full open, once the load catches, i start closing it in increments, over a span of time till its only a 1/4 open or less. The less is more rule kinda applies here.
Should your draft be that good a pipe or key dampner may work for your setup. Search browningbar's post about getting a hearthstone to 600. Diifferent stove but they run nearly the same. He has a decent draft and thats what worked for him.
Good luck.
Should your draft be that good a pipe or key dampner may work for your setup. Search browningbar's post about getting a hearthstone to 600. Diifferent stove but they run nearly the same. He has a decent draft and thats what worked for him.
Good luck.
Stump_Branch, do you hit 600 when the air control is still fully open, or not until after you close it down? Once you get the air control down below 1/4, how long will the temperature stay at 600?
Once you have the fire stable with the air control below 1/4, are your secondary flames gentle, spirited, or angry? (I'm sure there are more technical ways to describe them.)
Once you have the fire stable with the air control below 1/4, are your secondary flames gentle, spirited, or angry? (I'm sure there are more technical ways to describe them.)
logger
Minister of Fire
Im burning the same wood as stump, oak and locust. I find that the temps are easier to get higher on hardwoods with the air open. Then when I shut it down the temp goes down a little. When I burn maple, poplar, or ash I can shut her down 3/4 closed and the temps will still rise quickly to 600 and above.
Logger, I also burn mostly oak mixed with occasional black locust. It burns great, almost regardless of my air setting. Once the stove is hot, I can back the air all the way down on a load of oak and it will hum along at 450. If I leave the air control just a bit, maybe 1/8 or so, the stovetop corner will hover at around 500 or 525. At least then we're getting reasonable heat out of the stove.
If I leave the air control even more open, like 1/2 or even fully open, I might hit 560 - 575 in the corner. That's it -- I've never been able to get the stove higher than that, no matter what I do.
If I leave the air control even more open, like 1/2 or even fully open, I might hit 560 - 575 in the corner. That's it -- I've never been able to get the stove higher than that, no matter what I do.
Stump_Branch
Minister of Fire
pm01 said:
Its a fine tune thing. No i dont get it with air open. I let the fire get established, then start closing. To a point the temps rise with backing off the air. Typically the air is around 1/4 open but varies with wood and outside weather, as do the nature of secondaries. It only stays at 600 for about an hour or so maybe a bit longer. Ends up settling in the 500's for a few hours till dropping in the 400s.
Ill admit to lots of back and forth tuning to the air depending
logger
Minister of Fire
pm01 said:
When its colder out, I like to keep the air open full on a load or two until I hit 600, then when I shut her down it stays hotter longer. If your draft and wood are good, you should be able to hit 600 no problem with the air open. Id try resplitting your wood to skinny splits and keep feeding the box with the air open or 3/4 open until you reach 600. Then you can load bigger splits, let them char, then shut her down in increments and cruise in the 500s and 400s for a while. If you cant do that, than something is hindering your burns (wood or setup?).
logger said:
Sorry, but something is wrong here. What you just described is a system that is not operating correctly.
It could be from less than optimal draft, or it could be from wood that is too damp, but regardless, leaving the air wide open for 2 loads to get the unit to stay hotter is not right. If it is staying hotter longer I would assume it is because the stove is 1/2 full w/ coals by the time you get the 3rd load in there.
That stove should be hitting 600 w/ the air at 50% or less no problem.
Running with the stove's air wide open will really speed up the rate that air moves through the stove and up the chimney, taking a lot of heat up and out with it.
If it is necessary to keep the air open this far to get temps around 600, there is a problem
pen
JeffRey30747
Member
If I want to warm things up quickly, all it takes is four to six small (3") diameter splits loosely stacked in the firebox. Dry wood is extremely critical and the smaller splits will dry faster than larger splits. This is typically either a new fire or rekindling a fire with very little coals left. Everyone else says to leave a few ashes in the firebox but I seem to have better luck with fewer ashes. A good coal bed will light the splits off faster but isn't necessary. Less dense hardwoods (soft maple, tulip poplar & gum) work better for a quick, hot fire. The small splits expose more of the wood's surface to burn. As the temp builds, slowly cut back the air control. About halfway seems to be the sweet spot on my Oslo for max temps. By the time you get it that far closed, you should have secondaries fully involved in the top half of the firebox.
Don't fill the firebox too full of small, dry splits (especially if they are pine or other softwood) until you know how your particular system responds as it is possible to overfire more easily this way.
Don't fill the firebox too full of small, dry splits (especially if they are pine or other softwood) until you know how your particular system responds as it is possible to overfire more easily this way.
For me it's not hard to get to 600F but it tough to stabilise there. According to my stove top thermometer the best range is 400-600F (big range) and when you get above 600F your getting into the to-hot range (I know some will disagree). I find that when I get to 600F I'm usually on my way to 700F+ if I'm not careful which I don't like. What I'm trying to say is that in my opinion (and according to my stove top thermometer) 525-550F is optimal. It works in my house as far as warmth on a cold day/night, I find it easier to stabilize in this range and I think the wood consumption is right where I want it to be as well. For me getting the stove top to 600F+ is bordering on too hot (again I know others will disagree) and staying there may be depleting my wood supply much quicker than when I run 50-75F cooler.
logger
Minister of Fire
I disagree 100%. Im talking my first fire of the day here, Pen. Im on my 3rd yr w the Oslo and have absolutely no problem heating the entire house all winter w nothing but the stove. I use small splits to get a new fire going. They burn pretty quick so I dont always get to 600 on this initail load of kindling, but If I want the house warm quickly, I leave the air open to get coals quicker so I can get that next load in and start to shut her down sooner and get my heat. Im aware of hot air going up the chimney with the air open, but with kindling my goal is to establish some coals to get the big stuff in and start shutting her down for secondaries.pen said:
Maybe you misunderstood but my 1st load is kindling, in which case I leave the air open. Then my second load is reg splits and once it chars, I shut her down.
For my 1st fire in a cold stove, I will hit 600 much faster with the air open than partially closed. Loading on coals is a whole diff ball game.
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