catalyst a chimney fire preventer?

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fireview2788

Minister of Fire
Apr 20, 2011
972
SW Ohio
Just thought I'd throw this out there. When the cat is engaged the smoke flows through it and thus "filtering" the smoke and also the sparks. Because of this is there less of a chance of a chimney fire when the cat is engaged?



fv
 
It takes more then sparks to fire one off...still you have a interesting thought they may have merit.
 
On the Woodstock - or at least my Keystone, yes I think you are correct. Not only does the smoke path to the cat take a route to the front of the stove vs directly out the back, the stove pipe temps on Woodstocks are much lower than what I would have expected. Definately lower than my non-cat Englander 30. But then again, the 30 holds double the wood and outputs double the heat too.

Bill
 
I would think it'd be pretty tough to start a chimney fire with the cat engaged. Of course, the fire would likely start on a hot reload before you've engaged the cat anyway.
 
I'm waiting for my soot eater to arrive... and let me tell you, I close that cat asap after I stuff it full of wood... :p
I figure the straight up shot through the back of the stove has a much higher change than going through the flame shield, catalyst, and the plate after the catalyst.... I figure it's a bit safer than not having one :)

Should get here tomorrow...
 
i think due to the cat giving a lower chimney temp, your more likely to have a chimney fire due to the buildup of creo inside the chimney because of the lower temoeratures.
 
If the cat is doing it's job you won't have creosote ..maintenance is key.
 
It would be hard, (probably not impossible), to start a chimney fire while the cat is engaged. Yes, there will be less smoke going up the chimney when engaged, but creosote is what is really burning like an inferno during a chimney fire. A hot roaring fire is required to get the creosote ignited and that will be very hard to do (nearly impossible) with the cat engaged. I could get a fire like that going during the re-stoke when the cat by-pass is open and the door is opened and or the air intake vent is wide open.
 
It isn't the catalyst that will prevent the chimney fire; it is dry wood. Burn not dry wood in a cat stove and you will still have problems plus you'll plug that cat a lot sooner than you want. The cat is there to help burn up the smoke but can do only so much. It can not take away the problems caused by burning poor fuel.
 
Sure would like to know why my pipes plugged up with creosote? I thought my cat stove and brand new supaflu chimney was chimney fire proof til I inspected a few days ago and found this. And no, it's not my 3 year old Oak. I think I've narrowed it down to leaky pipes and a degrading steel cat.
 

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Todd said:
Sure would like to know why my pipes plugged up with creosote? I thought my cat stove and brand new supaflu chimney was chimney fire proof til I inspected a few days ago and found this. And no, it's not my 3 year old Oak. I think I've narrowed it down to leaky pipes and a degrading steel cat.
those chunks were in there? wth. i do tend to get more build up there in the straight pipe but not like that..
 
That's not good but I think you are on track with your prob.
You might need double wall..maybe?
 
Yeah, It was all in the bottom mostly in the thimble. Ended up changing the pipe from rear vent to top vent and also changed the steel cat out for ceramic. The pipe and stove temps are up 100 degrees now and draft seems a little better. Maybe I wasn't getting that chimney hot enough before engaging? Cat stoves run such low flue temps I'm thinking it's prolly a good idea when reloading to let her rip for a good 10-15 minutes before engaging to get that chimney hot. Watching cat probes or flue probes and engaging too soon could of been another reason for my problem. I'll be checking the chimney in a couple weeks and if I still have a problem I guess I'll have to go with double wall pipe.
 
Todd said:
Yeah, It was all in the bottom mostly in the thimble. Ended up changing the pipe from rear vent to top vent and also changed the steel cat out for ceramic. The pipe and stove temps are up 100 degrees now and draft seems a little better. Maybe I wasn't getting that chimney hot enough before engaging? Cat stoves run such low flue temps I'm thinking it's prolly a good idea when reloading to let her rip for a good 10-15 minutes before engaging to get that chimney hot. Watching cat probes or flue probes and engaging too soon could of been another reason for my problem. I'll be checking the chimney in a couple weeks and if I still have a problem I guess I'll have to go with double wall pipe.
I always get full flames going for about 10 minutes at least. Sometimes shorter because wood is so dry. But I just like to let it cook and get the draft going full force. I also have double. Wall expensive but worth it.
 
I have to think you have a leak in your pipe, Todd, unless you're also seeing buildup at the top of the chimney too (where it should be the coldest). Without leaks, I would expect to always have more creasote in the coldest part of the chimney. I've had the pipe (especially at the thimble) gunk up pretty bad, but when I cleaned the chimney the top was even worse.
 
The top was pretty much clean, just a little soot. Chimney cap was also clear. The tee I had out the back of the stove was probably leaking air along with the telescoping pipe but you would think the cat would clean up any nasties before it even gets to the pipe? After switching my steel and ceramic cats between stoves I found the ceramic cat is burning hotter for longer than the steel cat so that could of contributed as well?
 
Interesting, ceramic cat is running hotter longer...i liked the steels "indestructability" but id rather just have the best catalyst..
 
Stump_Branch said:
Interesting, ceramic cat is running hotter longer...i liked the steels "indestructability" but id rather just have the best catalyst..

Same here, when the steelies came out I was all for it, sounded great but now I'm not too sure. I've talked with Applied Ceramics about this and they say someone comes out with a steel cat about every 10 years and they find out they don't last more than 3 years and don't burn as hot as ceramics and go away again.

Woodstock is also looking into my situation and forwarded my emails to Sud Chemie who is the steel cat manufacture. Hopefully I will find something out soon.
 
Well youve got my attention.
 
Todd said:
Yeah, It was all in the bottom mostly in the thimble. Ended up changing the pipe from rear vent to top vent and also changed the steel cat out for ceramic. The pipe and stove temps are up 100 degrees now and draft seems a little better. Maybe I wasn't getting that chimney hot enough before engaging? Cat stoves run such low flue temps I'm thinking it's prolly a good idea when reloading to let her rip for a good 10-15 minutes before engaging to get that chimney hot. Watching cat probes or flue probes and engaging too soon could of been another reason for my problem. I'll be checking the chimney in a couple weeks and if I still have a problem I guess I'll have to go with double wall pipe.

Sounds like you already know what you gotta do boss.
 
So far I'm still liking the steel cat better but have basically stopped engaging at the lower temperatures.
 
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