crooked pipe, professional opinion on options ie. direct rear vent?

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Jabelone

New Member
Jan 27, 2012
5
Canada
Hi, first time poster here. We have had a wood burning stove as our primary heat source for ten years in this house. One thing we have never liked is the crooked pipe which has to bend to avoid a structural beam that runs inside and outside the house. We are renovating and prepared to replace the old Pacific Energy wood stove with a new better more modern looking one but want to know our options. We don't have gas here and there is no place to relocate the wood stove. I posted on another site, and people suggested all sorts of crazy options for covering the pipe that would likely burn our house down. I called our local fireplace store and the guy there is just a kid and doesn't know anything, so my questions for the professionals is this.

1) can you direct rear vent a wood burning stove? I see this option for other stoves like gas, pellet... but I assume there is too much smoke from a woodburner to vent without going above the roof line.

2) We could consider going to an wood burning insert (not gas). Can we direct rear vent an insert? I assume not for the same reasons. Do inserts provide anywhere near the same heat output as a wood burning stove? I would assume not as there is not radiant heat from an insert the way there is with a wood burner in all directions?

first picture shows our fire. Second shows what people have suggested but we can't do because it takes up too much space and there are windows on either side of the fireplace (see picture #1). Picture three shows rear vent, I assume the pipe goes outside and then up past the rood line as normal. We can't do that because of beam. Picture four shows what appears to be a direct vent wood stove??

Ideas? Thoughts? Thanks.
 

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Pellet stoves force combustion air in so they can be vented in that manner. A woodstove draws air in from the draft of the chimney.
Your right you must be above the roofline. With respect to surroundings.

Are you having issues with smoke spillage or poor draft?
First glance it appears okay. How tall is the total chimney, can you describe the whole system?

Stick around lots of good folks here who know their stuff.

Good luck, and welcome.
 
You need to have a chimney that extends above the roofline. One option would be to have the flue exit the wall behind the stove and beneath the beam where it will transition from stove pipe to class A chimney that will extend along the outside of the house to above the roof. Actually, this is probably your only real option besides keeping that slanted pipe.

Edit: Actually, it would be just like picture 3 only the wall pass through would be below the beam (maintaining proper clearances of course). You would just need to offset the stove slightly to the left or right so the pass through doesn't affect the beam support.
 
You can have a rear-exit flue stove connect to a wall thimble with a slight uphill pitch. The thimble ties into an exterior tee and the pipe then goes up high enough to clear the roof per the 10-3-2 rule. The downsides of this type of installation is that there is a limited selection of rear-exit stoves, the thimble height is stove specific which makes a replacement a real pita or impossible, and there is a lot of exterior exposure to the chimney with all of it possible issues.

The other option is like you have shown in the second picture. You can vent a top-vent stove like a PE, go up a few feet, then 90 into a thimble that connects to the outside chimney. That is more flexible because it will accompany varying stove heights by adjusting the vertical pipe length.

But let's just talk supposing here. Is the corner of the house behind the stove chamfered at an angle outside too or is this a false back in the corner? Interior flues are the way to go if at all possible. So I am wondering if that corner chamfer wasn't there whether a stove could be rotated 90 deg. and centered under the current ceiling support?
 
thanks for the responses. madison, it sounds like an insert is out because we need all the heat we can generate. Stump_Branch, yes, we have smoke spilling out of the firebox when first lit. Seems to have gotten worse though, so attributed this to dirty pipes. Waulie, exactly right but wife doesn't like the idea of offsetting the stove. I'm not so sure (we need a new hearth base anyway). BeGreen, yes, the angle continues outside, so is not a false corner. The beam is out there too, so complicates things more (post and beam construction). I'll enclose a photo of outside that angled corner. Just trying to figure out the options. Appreciate any further comments. Of course, function has to trump form... but that bent pipe is pretty ugly. Guess some black stone behind it running up to the ceiling might help make it less obvious? (the half brick has been removed).
 

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Based on options it looks like you may be in for a crooked pipe set-up and have to work around that. Based on limited photo evidence it looks like a nice wall to do a complete stone up and around the beam. There are some really nice cultured stones in all shapes and colors that look very nice and would look great(IMO) on the small corner wall behind the stove. Not sure how much you plan to DIY but working with cultured stone is rather easy and if you take your time it really looks great. Without the painted wall behind it that pipe would not be so obvious and really not draw the eye to it like it does now. You could replace the chrome piece with black(or paint it??) to relieve a bit more of an eye draw if it bothers you.

For the record - I like the way you think... "I want heat more than beauty!!!"

A pretty stove starts to look awful ugly in a cold house in February
 
Photos are deceiving, how far is the centerline of the chimney off the wall behind it (with the window)? Have you penciled out what the clearances would be for a new stove that has its flue collar sited directly below the ceiling chimney using double-wall connector pipe? (This is assuming an attractive redo of the hearth.)
 
Upon closer examination, it looks like repositioning the stove below the double walled ceiling pipe isn't an option due to lack of clearance. It is 24 inches from the wall with the window to the middle of the stainless ceiling pipe so the sides of the box would be too close to the wall. Looks like we're going to have to learn to live with the crooked stovepipe. Isn't that a country band; "The Crooked Stovepipes"?
Cheers.
 
Keeping it is obviously the least expensive option. However, you could have the pipe exit the wall below and just to the right or left of the beam (to avoid the beam support). Get a side-loader, square off the hearth and it'd look great. If it was me, I'd get the new stove, keep the pipe as is and consider changing it in the future.
 
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