Log jack for tree trunks larger than 24"?

You might want to try a Cant Hook to roll those suckers around. This one for instance http://store.logrite.com/canthook36.html
I have never used one, but they've been around forever & many swear by them. On the few times I've needed to roll logs I've used a 5-6' steel bar.
Be careful working on the log pile & pick up some plastic wedges if you don't already use them. Stick one in the kerf when you're half way through your cut & you'll keep from getting your bar & chain pinched when the log shifts.

Yep, check out the logrite with the lifter option. I'm about 175# & I can roll & lift a 24" X 8 to 10' oak log with it. A C

I have rolled 30" logs with this once I took that stupid jack off it.
http://peaveymfg.com/assets/timberjack.jpg
http://peaveymfg.com/products-logging-tools-timber-jack

Buy the Cant Hook instead.
http://peaveymfg.com/assets/cant_hook.jpg
http://peaveymfg.com/products-logging-tools-cant-hook

For sure you do not want the one that will lift the log. I have one of those things I've tried to give away for years because it is one of the most worthless tools I've even had. Now a simple canthook or peavy is a different story. I prefer the cant hook and rarely go to the woods without one. One with a 3' or 4' handle is nice and I still prefer the wood handles. Many hardwares carry them or can order one for you. I had to buy a new one a while back after someone stole mine and it seems like I paid $70 for it ($69.95).

My input as someone who does this stuff many day of the week, get the peavey as opposed to the cant hook. The peavey has a point on the end, I don't know why but it comes in handy for getting into tight spots to begin the roll or to nudge the log so you could put something under it. Be careful on the log pile they can get away from you in the blink of an eye! Ask me how I know? Lets just say I have not had a broken ankle yet....

Or roll it up onto a small branch and use care with the last few inches of cutting (unless you like sharpening chains).

The log jacks will JACK a 18" log. The lawyers cut that to 12".

The log jacks are basically a cant hook. They can roll much bigger.

I cut 3/4 of the way through, roll the log 90+ degrees with the log jack, and then cut the other side.

Also check that logs are stable before cutting & roll any that aren't out onto poles/branches to cut safely. Beats tryin to jump out of the way of a rolling log.

Take it very slow.... Once you're sure it weighs a LOT, things can happen very fast.

My Peavey has a 7' lever on it. I also have a 30" that stays home. Cutting from piles is very scary. I drag them off with a chain, or come along if at al possible to reduce the stored energy as much as I can before I get cutting.

A log that seems stable may not be after you make a few cuts.

I like to get the pile spread out on the ground. Cut nearly though, flip them with the Peavey. Then cut the rounds free.

Slow...

ATB,
Mike P

Learn from my experience: I made a cut, rolled the log, made another cut, then rolled it back to the original position to finish the first cut. When I put the saw down into the cut, it became the fourth of July...sparks everywhere. When I rolled the cut side down, it had picked up a small pebble into the cut, which was still there when I put the saw back in. The pebble didn't cut as easily as the wood, hence the sparks. I got to sharpen an almost new chain (but the sparks were kind of cool).

I just cut the darn thing....You will figure out quick enough on how to keep the saw out of the dirt.

midwestcoast said:

You might want to try a Cant Hook to roll those suckers around. This one for instance http://store.logrite.com/canthook36.html
I have never used one, but they've been around forever & many swear by them. On the few times I've needed to roll logs I've used a 5-6' steel bar.
Be careful working on the log pile & pick up some plastic wedges if you don't already use them. Stick one in the kerf when you're half way through your cut & you'll keep from getting your bar & chain pinched when the log shifts.

Click to expand...

Logrite tools are top quality. When I was shopping for a cant hook, the shop had a quality wood handled one, but I never touched it again after I picked up the Logrite. Lifetime warranty on the handle, and the hook and point are easily replaced. I'm a pretty big guy, and I've rolled some big stuff with it. I don't see how a single indivdual could damge it, but maybe two could.

I don't know for sure, but I think the handle is the same on the cant hook and peavey, meaning you might be able to switch the point back and forth. They also have a jack you can attach if you want to, but I wouldn't bother.

Well worth the extra coin. Bailey's has them sale priced quite often. After shipping though, you won't spend much more at a local dealer.

smokinjay said:

I just cut the darn thing....You will figure out quick enough on how to keep the saw out of the dirt.

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Unfortunately, my cabin is on a very rocky ridge. There is virtually no dirt, just softball-size rocks. You can't get a chainsaw anywhere near the bottom of a cut, if the tree is down.

(Ignore the lumber in the photo, just check out what the ground looks like.)

Also, Stihl rebrands and recolors the Logrite lineup in orange, if you're so inclined. You sure won't lose that, which is more than I can say for one of my rakes that disappeared in November.

I have the Stihl-branded 60" Logrite cant hook, and I've rolled 36" logs without a problem and believe I could go bigger, though it helps to cheat by pounding in the spike if the log is exceptionally large and heavy.

dorlow said:

Backwoods Savage said:

For sure you do not want the one that will lift the log. I have one of those things I've tried to give away for years because it is one of the most worthless tools I've even had. Now a simple canthook or peavy is a different story. I prefer the cant hook and rarely go to the woods without one. One with a 3' or 4' handle is nice and I still prefer the wood handles. Many hardwares carry them or can order one for you. I had to buy a new one a while back after someone stole mine and it seems like I paid $70 for it ($69.95).

Click to expand...

I just borrowed a cant hook from someone yesterday. I'll let you all know how it works. So, what do all you do with them? Just cut half way through, then roll it over and cut the other half way through?

Click to expand...

Now you are talking! A peavey will also work like a cant hook. I prefer the cant hook.

Just today I cut some 28" logs and it is simple. I cut down as far as I can without touching the ground with the chain. Make several cuts but usually you'll be able to see air somewhere along that log. That is where you want to cut all the way through. However, you can not cut all the way through from the top. As you are cutting in that spot, watch the crack where you just sawed through. Watch it at the very top and as soon as you see it start to come together, get that saw out fast! Now simply put the saw under the log and cut up. No, I do not mean turn the saw upside down, you use the top of the bar to finish the cut. When that is done you end up with a log with several cuts. Now use the cant hook to roll the log over so the uncut part is on top. Now it is simple to finish the cut.

If you need to load big logs onto a trailer or truck, use a ramp. Usually 2 x 6's work nicely and using the cant hook you roll as far as you can and then just hold the log with your body as you get another grip with the cant hook. Roll a bit further and repeat. It really is easy once you get the hang of it.

I do not like anything with longer than 4' handle and I also prefer a wood handle. I really like a 3' handle the best.

I use a timber tuff log jack and love it however I took the stand off of it as it is worthless so far! The Log jack works awesome for rolling and cutting you can haul with it!

Good Luck
Pete