My stove has been burning rather dirty the past few weeks. The glass becomes black in a few hours. In a few days it is has a coating of ash over 75% of the window area. Last week I changed all the gaskets except for the combustion blower (too lazy that day). The burn hasn't changed. Is it possible that the combustion blower gasket is the problem?
dirty burn and gaskets
- Thread starter Indiana
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
superchips
Member
Did you check the gaskets you replaced? Dollar bill test on the door?
When was the last time that you pulled the combustion blower and did a service on it?
Also, cleaning the entire exhaust path (inside the stove and vent) will help it breathe better.
A dirty burn can be a bad gasket, or it can be a plugged stove, vent, or cap?
When was the last time that you pulled the combustion blower and did a service on it?
Also, cleaning the entire exhaust path (inside the stove and vent) will help it breathe better.
A dirty burn can be a bad gasket, or it can be a plugged stove, vent, or cap?
save$
Minister of Fire
Any time I start to get that lazy fire with the hula dance, I know it is time to do a good cleaning. So far, that has always resolved the issue. I only have experience with one stove, but I am on my 4th year burning now.
That hula dance is usually indicative of a dirty stove. My problem is high ash on the glass and pellets filling up the burn pot. If I raise the feed/heat rate over 3, the pellet burn is slow. I have to keep increasing the air rate. Nowthat the full clean is finished, and all gaskets are replaced, we'll see how it goes. So far so good. I have had to lower theair rate. For all those englander 10-cpm guys, I am running a 1-2-1...
Got it
! Clogged flue at termination cap and last elbow. Looks like a nest was being made during the warm days when the stove wasn't on. She's 100% clean now.
DexterDay. thanxs for the info. I cleaned the flue in the fall, didn't think it would be clogged so soon.
! Clogged flue at termination cap and last elbow. Looks like a nest was being made during the warm days when the stove wasn't on. She's 100% clean now. DexterDay. thanxs for the info. I cleaned the flue in the fall, didn't think it would be clogged so soon.
Nice..... Cap is one of the most overlooked things.
Nests, Ash, Etc..
Glad its working for ya. ;-P
Nests, Ash, Etc..
Glad its working for ya. ;-P
Pelletfisky
Member
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
Pelletfisky said:
Close the door on a dollar bill and if it slips out easy you'll have a leak. It should hold the dollar pretty tight. Don't pull to hard and ripe your hard earned cash!
Pelletfisky
Member
The factory settings are 1-4-1.Indy3 said:
FWIW, I found that raising the button settings to 3-4-1, or 3-5-1 has really increased the heat output. You might want to give it a try.
BTW, my 10-cpm glass gets pretty dirty pretty quick too, even with a nice clean burn. I just think the airwash system isn't all that great, but I don't really care....I care about HEAT.
As Krooser always says, 80% of stove troubles are caused by a dirty stove.
Glad to hear it's running well on 1-3-1. If we get some more real cold weather, give those other settings I mentioned above a shot....I think you'll like them.
Glad to hear it's running well on 1-3-1. If we get some more real cold weather, give those other settings I mentioned above a shot....I think you'll like them.
turbulator
Member
Mine was making cinder-block clinkers... I changed out the rope gaskets on the front door and ash pan... It was burning laaaazy and sooting up the glass withing 1 hr or less... Found that my issue is the rope gasket... I must not have installed correctly or something but I made a slight adjustment a bit ago and she's doing ok now - nice tall white hot flame, but I am still seeing some smoke puffs roll across the glass so we shall see how this works...
16deg out w/o wind chill....running full bore level 5 with damper open full...holding 72 in the house - not too shabby.
16deg out w/o wind chill....running full bore level 5 with damper open full...holding 72 in the house - not too shabby.
turbulator said:
My furnace was getting a dirty burn. It wasnt quite black, but dark brown is close enough. The bearings on the combustion blower could be heard when it spooled up and down (on/off), so I called Fahrenheit and spoke with there lead Senior Tech.
He informed me of a couple different updates. First was a higher flowing exhaust manifold, second was a new sail switch (on back of OAK, it opened sideways instead of up and down, which provided more flow. I ordered both the new high flow products and also a new combustion blower, along with several gaskets for the rebuild and some for the shelf.
I put these in a couple 2-3 weeks ago now and WOW!! I thought it ran good when I 1st installed it. I actually have to use the damper now. Its about 1/3-1/2 way closed. Otherwise its throwing almost whole pellets out of the pot!!
Have you called and seen if there are any High CFM or High altitude parts available, that will increase the total CFM through the unit?
Just a new blower and I would have been in business. But the sail switch and manifold helped tremendously. Yeah it was a couple hundred total, but being able to talk to "The Man" about these furnaces, gave me so much insight as to what to expect. After sending him pics and explaining everything in detail, he said it was a Textbook install and most everything but my Plenum coming off the unit was ideal (He said 45°'s would be best, but 90°'s are all I had).
I hope the gaskets help out the burn. I have replaced the Door gasket, Ash pan, Combustion blower, Exhaust manifold, Heat exchange clean out door, and the single worst one, was the Hopper gasket (have to remove top skin of furnace). It was blown badly.
Best way to check if you need one (on my unit/// If yours isnt meant to seal and latch, then disregard) is to open the hopper up when the unit is running. If your flame tends to one side or looks like devil horns (air blowing through the middle of fire) you probably need a replacement. Best to check that with a lower hopper level than normal.
Cheers...
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
DexterDay said:
High flow exhaust, Like a header pipe? Suped it up like an old hot rod! When you gettting the turbocharger? Maybe a shot of NOS? :cheese:
smoke show said:
The guy said the blower would be enough, BUT..... If I added these thingys to it, it would be the Shiz-Nit! ;-P
I fell for the hype and bought them. But I am glad I did.
Magnum makes a high flow combustion blower for some of there models, so I started by telling him that. His response was we dont have a different blower, BUT we do have a couple updates that go on new models (knowing my serial #, he knew what was on it) that I dont have on mine.
The sail switch ised to hinge from the top. So when the furnace kicked on, the flapper would try and go up to let air in. But gravity did its job to, not letting it open all the way. The new design has hinges on the side. So when the furnace starts up, it swings wide open (giving you a larger opening by about 1/2, which is huge).
The Manifold itself almost looks the same. But it has a larger throat going from the bottom exhaust channel, up to where the combustion blower is mounted. More surface area + Less choking = Better breathing furnace.
Attachments
- Status
Similar threads
