Corner Install Questions

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jrsdws

jrsdws

Feeling the Heat
Feb 9, 2011
430
Central Illinois
I'm trying to lay out the install for the incoming 10-CPM and have questions about the venting. From forum searches and reading many posts I'm finding more and more hurdles to overcome due to window locations.

Firstly, I'd like to use all 3" venting if possible as I already have some stuff here. Does this seem logical and will it work?

With an out and up install, after the stove adapter I have a 45deg elbow, approximately 24" horizontally to reach beyond the eve, the 90deg tee, and then approximately an 8' vertical rise to put me 18" over the gutter to termination.

45deg = 3'
24" H = 2' (this might get up to 36" but no more)
90deg = 5'
8' V = 4'

Total: 14' (15' if horizontal run increases)

With an up and out install, I can't get 12" above a window, 24" below the soffit, or beyond 48" horizontally from the window.

Here are a couple of pictures of install location and a drawing of what I'd like to do. Does it look ok?
 

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Straight up is your best route and allows you to use the 3" stuff without hitting EVL gotchas.

I'm like j and that I don't care for through the roof, I don't need any additional potential water holes in the roof. But it does solve all of your placement issues, etc.
 
Could I get outside with 3" as shown in the sketch and then go to 4" for tee and vertical rise? My roof is new and I really don't want to poke holes in it.

I'd rather go all 4" as shown in the sketch than go through the ceiling and roof.
 
jrsdws said:
Could I get outside with 3" as shown in the sketch and then go to 4" for tee and vertical rise? My roof is new and I really don't want to poke holes in it.

I'd rather go all 4" as shown in the sketch than go through the ceiling and roof.
Click to expand...

Sure can. The make adapter tee's just for this.
 
And you feel this would provide adequate venting then with a high wind termination cap on top?
 
j-takeman said:
jrsdws said:
Could I get outside with 3" as shown in the sketch and then go to 4" for tee and vertical rise? My roof is new and I really don't want to poke holes in it.

I'd rather go all 4" as shown in the sketch than go through the ceiling and roof.
Click to expand...

Sure can. The make adapter tee's just for this.
Click to expand...

Only 2 to 3 ft of horizontal, then going to 4", will help tremendously.

Use the 3" you got to get outside and save a couple dollars. Then a 3" to 4" Clean-out and straight up.
 
I have no problems blowing holes in my roof.

If its properly flashed and so forth it will last longer then the roof.

I think pellet vents are ugly, and would only consider a thru wall if it is on backside of the home

But thats just my opinion.

Check out GrahaminVA install thread, he did a beautiful job.
 
I used pre existing exterior hole from gas fireplace and then up to above roof. located inside corner and outside L corner of house.
 
Have you located the studs in that corner. From the location of the white wall plug it appears that a stud and/or electrical wiring may be located exactly where you need to go through the wall. A 3" pipe going through that wall is going to require an 8" or 10" collar to meet most fire codes.
 
IMHO if you stick that pellet vent out 18 inches its going to look pretty ugly.

If the appearance doesn't matter then well it doesn't matter.

But poking a hole through your roof is not that difficult and with proper flashing will look lots better than the sketch you drew.

Good luck either way - but I'd say doing it right would side with the through the roof option (through the eeves).


-john
 
jrsdws said:
Could I get outside with 3" as shown in the sketch and then go to 4" for tee and vertical rise? My roof is new and I really don't want to poke holes in it.

I'd rather go all 4" as shown in the sketch than go through the ceiling and roof.
Click to expand...

Our house was fairly new (built in 2002) when we got our first pellet stove in 2004. We have a two-story great room but the corner where I did the install has a soffit that is only 8 foot ceiling, so I went straight up through it and out the roof. Going through the wall wasn't a good option - it would have gone out to the deck where the gas grill is located. All my pipe is standard 3" duravent pellet pipe.

8 years later - and I'm on my second stove - and there have been zero problems. Installing a 3" pellet pipe through the roof is no different than a standard plumbing vent. If it's installed and flashed properly, you won't have any issues.
 
Install is Friday and we're going through the ceiling and roof. It took a little reasoning for me to justify cutting holes in new ceiling and roof...LOL.

Do you guys put an adjustable piece in that vertical run so if you change to a different stove later you can adapt more easily?
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
It is a good idea jrsdws. Flexibility is always good to have.
Click to expand...
Agreed.... If you don't put the adjustable piece in now. You will when you replace it with another stove in X amount of years.

Once you live with a freestander, you'll always want one. (At least I will, and I have a Bio-mass furnace too!) ;-P
 
I just dont want to see the ugly pipe in the living room for myself, but like I said I used an exsisting hole thru wall
 
jrsdws said:
....Do you guys put an adjustable piece in that vertical run so if you change to a different stove later you can adapt more easily?
Click to expand...

Yes, I have one in my through-the-roof install, but remember to use furnace tape around the joint....it will leak if you don't.
 
jjs777_fzr said:
IMHO if you stick that pellet vent out 18 inches its going to look pretty ugly.

If the appearance doesn't matter then well it doesn't matter.

But poking a hole through your roof is not that difficult and with proper flashing will look lots better than the sketch you drew.

Good luck either way - but I'd say doing it right would side with the through the roof option (through the eeves).


-john
Click to expand...

Punch through the soffit, it it leaks, it's outdoors. Roofs are easy and even easier repaired...unless they are gravel, metal or Styrofoam...those suck.
 
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