Suggestions wanted for a LIGHT saw, under $150

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eclecticcottage

Minister of Fire
Dec 7, 2011
1,803
WNY
We're looking for a second saw, something for smaller limbs and easily totable. Prefer as close to or less than 10lb as possible, something DH can use when his back is bothering him or I can use whenever (ok, so, yeah, I'm a weakling...actually, my shoulder is, lol). We have a good saw for bigger jobs, but it seems like a waste to use it on smaller 3-6" limbs (and we've got a decent pile from recent scrounges). We don't want to spend a lot of $$ or we'd get a little Stihl. So I've been looking at Homelite, Poulan...prefer new because then we know it's been taken care of (found a mini-mac on CL but for $85 I can almost buy a new Homelite, and goodness only knows what the Po's done to the older saw).

Thoughts, opinions, suggestions?
 
smokinjay said:
This is over your budjet, but worth looking at: Also sold in a rear handle same price.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=TK+TCS+3301+PFS+12&catID;=

Also sold in rear handle with green paint and a longer warranty in her price range. :)

http://www.searsoutlet.com/d/product_details.jsp?pid=47255

In any case a 16" bar is way too much for a 32cc saw. If you know how to use a chainsaw, switch to a 12 or 14" bar with non-safety chain and the saw will be better balanced and cut faster.
 
KarlP said:
smokinjay said:
This is over your budjet, but worth looking at: Also sold in a rear handle same price.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=TK+TCS+3301+PFS+12&catID;=

Also sold in rear handle with green paint and a longer warranty in her price range. :)

http://www.searsoutlet.com/d/product_details.jsp?pid=47255

In any case a 16" bar is way too much for a 32cc saw. If you know how to use a chainsaw, switch to a 12 or 14" bar with non-safety chain and the saw will be better balanced and cut faster.

Is that the same saw?
 
smokinjay said:
Is that the same saw?

Yep. I'll give you a hint. Check the copyright notice on the bottom of just about every page on http://www.tanaka-usa.com. The owner's name is a clickable link. See who owns Tanaka now. :)

And apparently in the last couple weeks Tanaka now offers the same warranty as Hitachi.
 
KarlP said:
smokinjay said:
Is that the same saw?

Yep. I'll give you a hint. Check the copyright notice on the bottom of just about every page on http://www.tanaka-usa.com. The owner's name is a clickable link. See who owns Tanaka now. :)

And apparently in the last couple weeks Tanaka now offers the same warranty as Hitachi.

Thats a very cool deal do they offer it on the rear handle to?
 
Does it need to be new? I have a Husqvarna 36 that sits on a shelf, neglected and alone.
 
One thing I noticed... are they really selling these Hitachi saws with hard-nosed bars?

A sprocket tip bar would be much better. I cannot see anyone using one of these for plunge cuts.
 
StihlHead said:
One thing I noticed... are they really selling these Hitachi saws with hard-nosed bars?

A sprocket tip bar would be much better. I cannot see anyone using one of these for plunge cuts.

Its a 16" bar on a 33cc saw AND low kickback chain. If you're worried about nose friction when plunge cutting, I think that might be the third problem in line. :)

On the other hand I don't think I've ever considered plunge cutting any wood less than 8" in diameter and the OP stated the saw would be for 3-6" wood.

I hardnose bars are cheaper. I think they are favored for chainsaw carving ... and this might be a good saw for that?
 
KarlP said:
smokinjay said:
This is over your budjet, but worth looking at: Also sold in a rear handle same price.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=TK+TCS+3301+PFS+12&catID;=

Also sold in rear handle with green paint and a longer warranty in her price range. :)

http://www.searsoutlet.com/d/product_details.jsp?pid=47255

In any case a 16" bar is way too much for a 32cc saw. If you know how to use a chainsaw, switch to a 12 or 14" bar with non-safety chain and the saw will be better balanced and cut faster.

Oooo...I like...and it's even green (my fav color, it's an on going joke at our house cuz I *HATE* pink-Dh was jokingly showing me the pink carhartts and I about killed him. Then I bought a green one :D ). Too bad they don't have one at the Sears near me, I'd find an excuse to wrangle it up tonight, it's like 45 degrees out, perfect weather to play with a new toy. Not that he'd give me too much of a chance with it right now, since his back isn't bothering him too much...

Wouldn't need a 16" bar anyway, this is really just a "little stuff" saw for when it doesn't seem to make sense to pull out the big guy.
 
KarlP said:
StihlHead said:
One thing I noticed... are they really selling these Hitachi saws with hard-nosed bars?

A sprocket tip bar would be much better. I cannot see anyone using one of these for plunge cuts.

Its a 16" bar on a 33cc saw AND low kickback chain. If you're worried about nose friction when plunge cutting, I think that might be the third problem in line. :)

On the other hand I don't think I've ever considered plunge cutting any wood less than 8" in diameter and the OP stated the saw would be for 3-6" wood.

I hardnose bars are cheaper. I think they are favored for chainsaw carving ... and this might be a good saw for that?

Seems that a solid bar would be a lot more friction, dragging down an already underpowered saw. I have never run a solid nose bar on any saw less than 60cc for bore (plunge) cutting much less than 24 in DBH odd angle trees that needed straps instead of a simple back cut. I have never done any chainsaw carving... they seem to like short narrow tip bars for that stuff though?

I have 16" bars on my 35cc Stihl 211s (I picked up another really good barely used one for $175 on CL) and they run just fine. I have 12 and 14 inch bars for them as well but never had the need to downsize. They are all Stihl sprocket tip rollomatic bars with non-safety 3/8 picco semi-chisel chain. However, the 211 has 2.3 HP, or 44% more power than this 32cc Hitachi that has a mere 1.6 HP. A "commercial grade" chainsaw they claim??? What does that mean? Seems like the Hitachi would be more of a wood massager than a chainsaw. I dunno how much good cheap gets you here. A hundred clams is a good price, but... I would put a 12 or a 14 inch bar on it with a roller tip. I ran 14 inch bars on my baby top handle Echo CS-300 top handle saws and they did OK. Those saws sold for $200 in the day.
 
So I remembered Lowes carries Hitatchi. They have the same saw for $199. I'm going to take a print out of the page to them and see if they will price match.
 
So that went over real well (sarcasm). I "chatted" with a lowes rep online and gave them links to both saws and asked if they could price match. Sure, either call them or take it to the store. Went to the store and an hour later, left with no saw and a bad temper. Called their CS and the assistant manager called back the next day (yesterday). Talked to DH since I was at work. We ended up with a Husqvarna 435 for $119 instead of the Hitatchi. Dunno if I'm happy about it or not, but I know that the Husqvarna has a screw chain adjustment instead of those stupid knobs and it's @40cc instead of @32. Light enough, but I'll probably get a shorter bar and chain too. Now I just need to get some time to play around with it. And maybe spray paint it green :p
 
Fiskars 30 inch. 12.8 ounces and only $14.99 on amazon....
 

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That seems a very good deal.
 
Sisu said:
Fiskars 30 inch. 12.8 ounces and only $14.99 on amazon....

Lol...I guess I should have been specific and said CHAIN saw.
 
A LIGHT saw. Check Han Solo.
 
jimbom said:
A LIGHT saw. Check Han Solo.

Oh oh oh.... Iji wak guannah suk imasso.... Han Solo.... mah hajukinyu obetimejabu... Oh oh oh oh....

-Jabba the Hut

Jabba says that Han did not use a lightsaber. He used a side arm called a blaster pistol. More his style, as he was not a Jedi Knight. Only a Jedi had a lightsaber.

Oh oh oh oh....
 
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