Jotul F400 vs. F500 in a 1500sf Cape Cod style home.

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Halligan

Feeling the Heat
Jan 19, 2012
352
Southeastern Massachusetts
As the title states I trying to decide on a wood stove for my 1500sf home and I think I've narrowed it down to a F400 or F500. My house is a 15 y/o Cape Cod style two story home located in coastal Rhode Island. My current heat is provided by forced hot water baseboard fired by natural gas. The home is insulated and has decent windows. My first floor has a nice open floor plan that wraps around a center staircase. I intend to put the stove in the eating area of the large kitchen. Due too the lack of a fireplace or masonry chimney I will be going through the wall and up the side of my house with the double wall chimney pipe. My local dealer showed me both of the stoves mentioned and I'm unsure of what I need. I do not intend to solely heat with wood unless forced to do so during a crisis. I will mostly heat with wood as a secondary heat source. I like the F500 Oslo because of it's larger firebox and side load door but wonder if it's overkill for my application. I like the F400 Castine for it's smaller overall footprint and it's obviously cheaper.

BTW I've been learning much by reading hear, both good (for me) and bad (for her). My wife can't understand why I have cut and split over a cord and a half of wood considering I have no stove. I did expalin the whole seasoning process to her and how a cord and a half is not a lot of wood. She looked concerned. Then she was a little shaky with the new Huskee 22ton splitter that I purchased. Heck, considering I divided the cost for the splitter with another family member who burns wood I thought the $500 dollar investment was money well spent on my part. She wasn't impressed. I really think the new saw may have put her over the top though. My old Husky 45 has been a steadfast saw for my needs. (did commercial landscaping as a side job and used the saw for jobs when needed) but between reading hear and on AS I felt a new 346XP would really up my firewood game some. Now I have a new 16" bar on the old 45 and an 18" on the 346XP. Did I mention I back up both saws with my dad's old 1976 vintage Homelite Super XL if needed. Wife thinks I'm totally freakin nuts. Wait till she finds out I ordered a Cant hook and chaps last night. I really think hearth.com should have a divorce section so we can gather to discuss our lost marriages to a good women because of a wood stove.

Cheers and thanks for any replies in advance.
 
I have an f400 and it works well for me, and I run 24/7. I have similar square footage, open concept. If I were to do it over, I would get the larger stove for a number of reasons. You never know if you would decide to heat 24/7, get a stove with a larger firebox. Oil futures are expected to sky rocket, ect. Good you'll be getting your wood together. Stove prices should start to drop significantly soon. Good luck!
 
Would the Oslo be too big in my house? I don't want to be driven out by heat.
 
Halligan said:
Would the Oslo be too big in my house? I don't want to be driven out by heat.

Nope, not too big. Id go Oslo as well. If you do some research around the site, you'll find most people will advise to go a little bigger than a little smaller. You can always light smaller fires in the big stove, but the the smaller one may not put the heat you need out in the dead of winter. What should help your decision is the open floor plan and two stories that you have. The Oslo should do the trick perfectly. Best of luck.
 
My house is about the same, little colder up here in western Ma. I'd go with the 500; you can always make smaller or fewer fires but either way nice dryyy wood is the key. But to play devils advocate, natural gas is the cheapest, easiest heat to use, at least in our area. Unless you have a source of free wood or enjoy and our prepared to scrounge, haul, cut, split, stack and get rid of the ash, all with little help from your spouse, why bother. Spend the money on something that both you and the Mrs. can enjoy. Oh did I mention the extra dust, dirt and muddy shoes. Wood burning is not for everyone but for many of us it works well with our lifestyle. Be safe.
Ed
 
Not trying to talk you out of a Jotul, but have you considered a day trip up to the Woodstock factory. A Fireview sounds like it would be perfect for your setup. Great stove and some of the best customer service in the business. I think woodstock is still offering their discounted prices too.
 
If you have the floor space and can fit the Oslo I would go that route. As many fellow members have all ready stated the BTU's are in the wood not the stove. With good quality wood and a small fire you will learn how much fuel you actually need to maintain the room temperature you want. But for real world 8-10 hr. overnight burns the Oslo will have the legs and on extremely cold days you'll be covered.
Cory
 
kingquad said:
Not trying to talk you out of a Jotul, but have you considered a day trip up to the Woodstock factory. A Fireview sounds like it would be perfect for your setup. Great stove and some of the best customer service in the business. I think woodstock is still offering their discounted prices too.

Don't forget to note the difference in $ sticker price $. Not everyone wants/needs a stove like that...
 
First a disclaimer: we are planning to improve our insulation which might change our stove usage habits but the nice thing is we can always burn smaller fires.

We are using an Oslo to heat our ranch style 1500 sq. ft. home with a less than open floor plan. A narrow hall leads to the master and a second bedroom, the second bedroom stays right on par with the rest of the house average but the the master is always about 5-10 degrees cooler than the rest of the house. A single floor fan does an amazing job of moving the air so the heat reaches these rooms.
During a minimum average outside temp of about 15 degrees the stove room is a balmy 75-80 degrees, the main average of the other rooms is 68-74 degrees, and the master stays right at 63-64 degrees.
When things dip below 10 degrees we have to start pushing the stove a little harder to keep the master over 60 degrees, the rest of the house averages out around 65-68 degrees.

In hindsight, I am so glad we went with the Oslo. Playing with smaller load overnight burns has givin me a good idea of where we would have been with the Castine...wanting a larger stove;-)

If you think you have room for the Oslo, get her. Make sure you have clearance to take advantage of the side door. Better yet, if you can wait a couple months, check into the F55 that has yet to hit the dealers. The F55 looks like it might have a deeper belly, so maybe ash spillage won't be so bad since it's front load only. The side load on the Oslo is nice and preferred over front door use, but the ash pan is over rated. The front door sucks for 24/7 use and ash spillage. I bet the F55 might be a happy $ medium between the Oslo and Castine.

I'm real anxious to see the F55.
 
I have an F400 in a 1700 sq ft contemporary style home, open floor plan, here in Eastern PA. The stove is in a finished basement (which is not included as part of the square foot total). The fan from the forced air system is used to circulate air from basement to upstairs.

When it's around 30 deg F outside, the first floor is usually around 72, basement around 78 or so. I keep the thermostat at 70, will occasionally kick on if the outside temp drops below 20.

If cost and space is not an issue, I'd agree that going to a larger stove can't hurt. A buddy has an F500 in a house roughly the same size as mine, has never complained about having too much stove... but I do think either would work
 
Both stoves will do the job and look great, so it would be good to decide on priorities. Some things to think about:

1) Corner or straight wall install? Oslo can not be side door loaded with a corner installation.
2) Frequency of loading? A bigger firebox does not mean it's going to drive you out of the house. Run properly, it means you are going to get longer burns between refills. In milder weather, burn shorter, hot fires with only 3-4 splits, then let the stove go out.
3) Chimney - as described, the stove is going to be connected with two 90 deg turns in the smoke path. This is not ideal, especially for the F400. The two 90s are going to effectively reduce the overall chimney height by about 6 ft. And an exterior flue is going to be colder which will affect draft, especially with a cold stove. Definitely think hard about this. If at all possible, install a straight up flue through the interior of the house. It will perform and clean better and you will notice this. The stove will draft better meaning it will start easier and there will be minimal or no smoke spillage when opening the stove door. This is particularly true with the Castine because of its large door and shallow firebox.
4) Other options? There are other stoves besides Jotuls that could do this job for you. I love Jotuls, so this is not a push for another brand. Just want to be sure you have considered the alternatives.
 
Good point on the F400 draft Be Green!
Another reason we went with the F500 is due to the reports of the F400 needing really good draft compared to the F500. Our chimney would only let us exceed the minimum 14' Jotul recommendation by a foot. Combine that with a rear vent and T setup, we were concerned that the Castine would have trouble running efficiently.
I even used rigid liner to reduce any turbulence that the flex may have created, whether this is mythical or not it seems to make sense.

If we did not have an ugly masonry fireplace to chase the liner through I would have gone straight through the attic with the vertical vent instead of the rear option.
 
mossycup said:
Good point on the F400 draft Be Green!
Another reason we went with the F500 is due to the reports of the F400 needing really good draft compared to the F500. Our chimney would only let us exceed the minimum 14' Jotul recommendation by a foot. Combine that with a rear vent and T setup, we were concerned that the Castine would have trouble running efficiently.
I even used rigid liner to reduce any turbulence that the flex may have created, whether this is mythical or not it seems to make sense.

I would second this. We had to add to our existing chimney to get rid of drafting issues with our F400 (didn't help that we had two 90 deg bends), and we've also had the smoke spillage issues that BeGreen mentioned. Opening the door very slowly helps, but shouldn't have to do that.

When it's running hot, it runs great, but getting the F400 going, or running it with a small fire, can be a challenge.
 
Another F400 owner heard from: Go with the Oslo. I really wanted one, but couldn't swing the clearance with the area I had to work with. Don't get me wrong. I love the Castine, a great stove. I've never had a draft issue (14' double wall connector + Class A, straight run) But, I would have liked the extra capacity. If it hasn't been said already here: You can't build a bigger fire in a smaller stove, but you can the other way around.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I have the room for the Oslo so that's not an issue. However, I have to go through my wall with the pipe and up the side of the house because I don't think my daughter would like a stove pipe running through her bedroom. From what you all have said it sounds like the Oslo will draft better with the two 90* bends I will have to make. As for different stove manufacturers the dealer I trust like near me deals with Jotul and a good friend of mine is happy with his Jotul hence my reason for liking Jotul.

While I agree natural gas is much cheaper than oil I do like the idea of augmenting my heat with wood. My parent burned when I was young and my mother still burns today, though not always. As for wood I have been doing good scrounging. I'd say I've scrounged 3 cords in the last 5 months. Gave 1 1/2 cord to mom and kept the other for me. Hitting a downed maple this weekend and I have a lead on a downed oak for future use. Like I posted above I've used saws in the past albeit to mostly clear overgrowth for customers when I landscaped. I've always had a truck and now own a splitter so I'm in good shape with the required tools of the trade. Even if I don't put a stove in for me I still need to scrounge wood for mom so whats a little more scrounging.

Again thanks.
 
Random thoughts . . .

1,800 square foot 1970s vintage Cape here in Maine. A little different situation, but here's the point. I sized the Oslo for my size house . . . some could even consider it one stove up in size for what I needed . . . but while the Oslo works great 98% of the time there are sometimes a few days in the dead of winter when I really think I could have even gone larger and been happy. On the flip side, in the fall and spring when I just need to take a chill out of the house it is rare that I over heat the place . . . what I am saying is . . .

1) Go up one size. You can always build a smaller fire in a larger firebox when you only need a small fire to take the chill out of the air, but when the winter winds are howling and you've lost power it's really hard to stuff more wood into a firebox that is already filled to capacity. A woodstove is much like a truck. You may not always need 8 cylinders, but when you need all that power you will sincerely appreciate it.

2) A large part of controlling the heat in a home -- both in terms of not getting the place too hot and in terms of not having a wide fluctuation in temps is learning how to load the woodstove. You control the heat by what and how much you load in the stove and how often you reload. In other words, in the Fall when it is chilly outside in the morning, but the temps are forecast to rise into the 50s or 60s you may just want to do a partial load in the firebox with your punks, chunks or uglies (no need to pack in every corner of the firebox) and you may only wish to use some of your "junk" wood (low in BTUs) . . . and you may not want to do a reload. In the winter however you may want to do a full load of your primo oak and reload more often.

So . . . what I am saying in my typically verbose way is . . . go with the Oslo.


P.S. I also suspect that you may become a convert to wood heat . . . cheap heat (well once the toys are paid off through the savings of heating with wood) is hard to beat . . . couple that with the view of the fire and the steady heat and you may well find that you are heating with wood more often than just on weekends and evenings.
 
firefighterjake said:
Random thoughts . . .

1,800 square foot 1970s vintage Cape here in Maine. A little different situation, but here's the point. I sized the Oslo for my size house . . . some could even consider it one stove up in size for what I needed . . . but while the Oslo works great 98% of the time there are sometimes a few days in the dead of winter when I really think I could have even gone larger and been happy. On the flip side, in the fall and spring when I just need to take a chill out of the house it is rare that I over heat the place . . . what I am saying is . . .

1) Go up one size. You can always build a smaller fire in a larger firebox when you only need a small fire to take the chill out of the air, but when the winter winds are howling and you've lost power it's really hard to stuff more wood into a firebox that is already filled to capacity. A woodstove is much like a truck. You may not always need 8 cylinders, but when you need all that power you will sincerely appreciate it.

2) A large part of controlling the heat in a home -- both in terms of not getting the place too hot and in terms of not having a wide fluctuation in temps is learning how to load the woodstove. You control the heat by what and how much you load in the stove and how often you reload. In other words, in the Fall when it is chilly outside in the morning, but the temps are forecast to rise into the 50s or 60s you may just want to do a partial load in the firebox with your punks, chunks or uglies (no need to pack in every corner of the firebox) and you may only wish to use some of your "junk" wood (low in BTUs) . . . and you may not want to do a reload. In the winter however you may want to do a full load of your primo oak and reload more often.

So . . . what I am saying in my typically verbose way is . . . go with the Oslo.


P.S. I also suspect that you may become a convert to wood heat . . . cheap heat (well once the toys are paid off through the savings of heating with wood) is hard to beat . . . couple that with the view of the fire and the steady heat and you may well find that you are heating with wood more often than just on weekends and evenings.

Thanks brother.
 
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