Follow-up on the Noodle thread

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Maplewoodie

New Member
Jan 2, 2012
9
Maplewood NJ
So I just read the noodling thread and have a question:

I have used this idea to work on some of my knotty rounds, and will typically cut into the round from the top with my chain saw about 2 inches and then use wedges to wrestle it apart. Do you guys find it easier to cut into the round from the side and then use wedges? I always figured that "wedging" with the grain (from the top) would be easier than against or through the grain (from the side).

Please share your experience and thoughts.

Thanks!
 
Just depends on how the round falls....I not trying to pick it up and move it..
 

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If it is a really large round, a knuckle, or a crotch, I cut as far through as I can, roll or flip the piece over, and finish from the other side.
 
Maplewoodie said:
So I just read the noodling thread and have a question:

I have used this idea to work on some of my knotty rounds, and will typically cut into the round from the top with my chain saw about 2 inches and then use wedges to wrestle it apart. Do you guys find it easier to cut into the round from the side and then use wedges? I always figured that "wedging" with the grain (from the top) would be easier than against or through the grain (from the side).

Please share your experience and thoughts.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

On the knots & forks, I find it easiest to noodle/rip through the crossed fibers, like at the junction of the fork, so I can set a wedge there to split it. (Often knots are just hidden forks.) IOW noodle what can't be split with the wood, then proceed to split. Hope this makes sense.

Plain big rounds- noodle/rip so wedge(s) can be set. Really big ones- do them where they sit.
 
CTYank said:
On the knots & forks, I find it easiest to noodle/rip through the crossed fibers, like at the junction of the fork, so I can set a wedge there to split it. (Often knots are just hidden forks.) IOW noodle what can't be split with the wood, then proceed to split. Hope this makes sense.

Plain big rounds- noodle/rip so wedge(s) can be set. Really big ones- do them where they sit.
Click to expand...

That's what I do,usually just have to saw a kerf or 2 a couple inches once log is standing up.Only time I go all the way through with the saw if when I want or need shorter blocks/slabs up to 3ft long for woodturning etc.
 
Regular saw chain doesn't cut into end grain very well at all. In fact you can't noodle end grain only side grain. SmokinMan can tell you about ripping chain design to cut end grain.
 
O K SmokinMan lets hear it :lol:
 
for all the more I ever use the saw for noodling, I don't need no ripping chain. If you are milling boards with your saw, then yes you would want a rip chain. Not necessary for the occasional rip cut to chunk up a crotch or big round. My full chisel oilomatic chain, when good and sharp, will do the job easily.
 
wkpoor said:
Regular saw chain doesn't cut into end grain very well at all. In fact you can't noodle end grain only side grain. SmokinMan can tell you about ripping chain design to cut end grain.
Click to expand...

Yes I use a specially ground ripping chain for milling long cuts,I have 4 of them ground at 10 degrees.I've been milling for 20 yrs.Its just for 2 or 3 shorter cuts its faster to mill them 'freehand' & not set up the mill.When I need 100% accuracy & have large logs to mill that's when the mill is used.
 
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