Humidifying my air

I myself would put the humidifier in the living space your most in, or most centralized area..
I have a Kenmore console model and keep it in the living room, and that is the same room as the insert.
I like the console as it has two big bottles that get filled about once a day or so depending on the dryness of the air. Sometimes its one bottle filled each day.

I have no experience with a whole-house humidifier, but plenty with smaller ones. I have found that, in my house, I get very little benefit in any room but the one in which the humidifier is located. It isn't just how I feel: I have used instruments to check this. I would suppose that, like central heating, a whole-house unit needs some way to circulate the moisturized air, regardless where it is located.

The only whole-house solution I ever had that worked was one installed in the supply plenum of a gas hot air furnace. And that was a nightmare to keep clean and free of bacteria.

So two thoughts. First, I agree with those who say humidify living spaces individually, especially bedrooms.

Second, my wife's doctor recommended a really good preventive measure against sinus and upper respiratory troubles during winter: buy some saline (non-chemical) nose spray and use it twice a day during dry weather. It has made a huge difference.

-dan

Take a look at the MoistAire by Essick -- they make mult. size whole house console units that do the job. they maybe available at Home Depot.

These do not "spit" moisture but draw the air thru filters that are wet. They hold large "cassettes" that are easy to refill. I have the 2700 sq ft model and it is ~ 3 yrs old, ~ $130 when I bought it, replaced the filters for ~ $20 each yr. I stash mine in the attic over the summer.

I put a nice size stainless steel pan,container on top of my stove and it can be fill 2-4 times aday. It holds about 3 gallons of water a time. I stop using the small mini room humidfers, like this I don't have to worry about anything growing in there or put stuff in the water to stop mold and ete. That pan was the best 18 humidifying dollars I ever spent.

I've often wondered how an aquarium aerator might work running in a pot of water on a stove or HA vent.

Here in Texas, I do not burn my stove all the time, but I have noticed that the drying effect of the stove has caused some wood in my house to shrink, exposing gaps. I imagine that the house will open up later this week due to highs in the seventies, and much more in the spring due to warmth. Also, Snook is humid due to the proximity to the Gulf. All that said, are the problems associated with too dry a house related to those homes in climates where the stoves burn 24/7? Other than what I have observed, few problems exist for humidity here. Also, my house is tight, but not too tight due to its age and construction.

DanH said:

The only whole-house solution I ever had that worked was one installed in the supply plenum of a gas hot air furnace. And that was a nightmare to keep clean and free of bacteria.

So two thoughts. First, I agree with those who say humidify living spaces individually, especially bedrooms.

Second, my wife's doctor recommended a really good preventive measure against sinus and upper respiratory troubles during winter: buy some saline (non-chemical) nose spray and use it twice a day during dry weather. It has made a huge difference.

-dan

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I just installed an Aprilaire whole house humidifier last week and so far I am happy with it. Mine is attached to my return air plenum on my forced hot air furnace/AC. I have it set up so it can run with just the furnace blower and no heat. As far as cleaning and worries of bacteria go: Mine has a constant flow of water and is hooked up to a drain so you never have stagnant water growing bacteria. There is a water pad that water drips through and then goes to a drain. This pad needs to be changed once a year if you have soft water. Not much maintenance involved with this unit and very easy to install. Time will tell if it is a winner or not. If you do not have a furnace they also have a unit that stands alone and can be ducted to wherever you please (aprilaire 350). Honeywell and other manufacturers also make whole house types.

How much humidifier is needed depends on how leaky your house is, and that can vary immensely from house to house. IOW, humidfying your whole house is either easy (if its tight) or effectively impossible (if its not). If your house is average leaky or more, then bumping the humidity in the whole house, say 10%, will require at least several gallons per day, or as many as 10. And 10% can be hard to notice without an instrument.

B/c of the stack effect, if the unit is upstairs, the H2O will all go out the upper story, and the downstairs will still be dry.

Advice: Put the small units in your bedrooms, and fill them at bedtime. You will get some benefit. if you want a whole house solution, the first step is probably a thorough airsealing.

DanH said:

Second, my wife's doctor recommended a really good preventive measure against sinus and upper respiratory troubles during winter: buy some saline (non-chemical) nose spray and use it twice a day during dry weather. It has made a huge difference.

-dan

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I have major troubles with it but the other 3 dont. I broke down and bought a bottle last week thinking it cant hurt and MAN does it help me. Its like being normal again.

whole house humidifiers have been connected to diseases depending on the type and manner in which they are running.

I have a 1800ft^2 house (1955) and a single stand along unit can keep it 40-45%rh pretty well. I would suggest that.

Studies have been done showing a humidity below 30% dramatically increased your chances of getting a disease as your lungs are less moist.

regardless, my skin doesnt crack as much.

I've always felt that a furnace drys the air much more than heating with a wood stove alone. In winter I open the dishwasher soon after it finishes, never use the bathroom fans when showering and keep a pot of water on the wood stove.