Oregon Splitter
- Thread starter thewoodlands
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
maxed_out
New Member
Agree. Looks like a nicer version of the Huskee. The ram and beam are almost identical. Kohler command is a good engine. Kohler courage not so much (not that they are bad, just not commercial duty). Looks like the tongue jack is nicer than the Huskee too (finger pincher).
Pineburner said:
http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/products/logsplitters/22TonLogSplitter.htm
I never grabbed a book in Boonville but this is what a search brought up. Talked with Oregon and this is the company they gave me for the splitter.
http://scotsco.com/contact_info.htm
zap
Yup, it's made by Speeco; my nephew and I just bought one of these except with the Honda engine. It has bigger wheels, more cc's and faster cycle time than the TSC version. All the filters and the oil and hydrualic fluid containers that came with it say "SpeeCo" on it. It looks good...definately will be an upgrade from my 40 year old model. Big test will be next weekend!
Nice, our local shop started to carry them last fall so they could compete with TSC, keep us updated on how it performs.
zap
zap
bogydave
Minister of Fire
bogydave said:
They wanted $2600 which is the same as I found on-line. My nephew works for Altec and he was at a show at the time. He made a deal with the guy; he took $200 off, threw in the hydrualic fluid (7 1/2 gallons), oil, 4-way wedge, and log catcher. Sounded like a good deal to us. The other models at the show were Timberwolf and Iron and Oak; the Oregon was less money and suited our needs better.
So here is my review. We bought the 28 ton splitter with the Honda engine. I split about a cord of wood with it this weekend:
Pros:
1. Wicked powerful: I didn’t stall it once on any piece I put on there; even with the 4-way!
2. Working height: I think this is the first time I have ever run a splitter without back pain. I was a little sore this morning, but it was from lifting logs more than operational stance.
3. Log “strippers†work good for removing stuck pieces off the wedge. Slight improvements could be made (see improvements below)
4. 4-way wedge works good. I will need some mods (see improvements below)
Cons:
1. Engine started horribly. I bet I pulled the starter cord 100 times if I pulled it once. The only time it would pop at all was with the choke off.
2. Engine “surging†at idle. Definately worsens after it warms up.
Note: This is not me experience with Honda engines at all so I assume there is something wrong/not set properly.
Improvements:
1. Shelf is a definite “must have item†IMHO. I may want to build in an additional guard on the motor side of the shelf to protect logs from hitting engine when being “strippedâ€.
2. Locking pin/restraining system for 4-way needs improvement or I just need to remove it for transportation; it worked fine without the rstraint in operation.
3. Could possibly use a guard on the operator side of the machine as well for the hydraulic fluid filter/lines.
4. Strippers work good except when the chunk is stuck to the wedge but during the splitting process may have tilted upward so that the end of the log rides over the stripper which causes the following problems:
a. On engine side: if it misses the stripper it may allow the chunk to come back and then fall on the engine (shelf may help this)
b. On operator side: If log misses the stripper it may allow the chunk to come back and hit the control lever (this happened to me once yesterday) which could bend the lever.
c. Problem: Strippers are too short (I prefer tall strippers ;-) ) but if I extended them, the 4-way wouldn’t work….I need to work on this I think....
Pros:
1. Wicked powerful: I didn’t stall it once on any piece I put on there; even with the 4-way!
2. Working height: I think this is the first time I have ever run a splitter without back pain. I was a little sore this morning, but it was from lifting logs more than operational stance.
3. Log “strippers†work good for removing stuck pieces off the wedge. Slight improvements could be made (see improvements below)
4. 4-way wedge works good. I will need some mods (see improvements below)
Cons:
1. Engine started horribly. I bet I pulled the starter cord 100 times if I pulled it once. The only time it would pop at all was with the choke off.
2. Engine “surging†at idle. Definately worsens after it warms up.
Note: This is not me experience with Honda engines at all so I assume there is something wrong/not set properly.
Improvements:
1. Shelf is a definite “must have item†IMHO. I may want to build in an additional guard on the motor side of the shelf to protect logs from hitting engine when being “strippedâ€.
2. Locking pin/restraining system for 4-way needs improvement or I just need to remove it for transportation; it worked fine without the rstraint in operation.
3. Could possibly use a guard on the operator side of the machine as well for the hydraulic fluid filter/lines.
4. Strippers work good except when the chunk is stuck to the wedge but during the splitting process may have tilted upward so that the end of the log rides over the stripper which causes the following problems:
a. On engine side: if it misses the stripper it may allow the chunk to come back and then fall on the engine (shelf may help this)
b. On operator side: If log misses the stripper it may allow the chunk to come back and hit the control lever (this happened to me once yesterday) which could bend the lever.
c. Problem: Strippers are too short (I prefer tall strippers ;-) ) but if I extended them, the 4-way wouldn’t work….I need to work on this I think....
This is from Oregon's site, is the choke suppose to be off on a cold start.
http://www.oregonchain.com/logsplitter_parts/Oregon28TonLogSplitterManual_06202011.pdf
1) Move the fuel valve lever to the ON position.
2) To start a cold engine move the choke lever to the CLOSED position. To restart a warm engine leave the choke lever in the OPEN position.
3) Move the throttle lever away from the MIN position, about 1/3 of the way toward the MAX position.
4) Turn the engine switch to the ON position.
5) Operate the starter (recoil starter). Pull the starter grip lightly until you bfeel resistance, then pull briskly. Return the starter grip gently. Do not allow the starter grip to snap back against the engine. Return it gently to prevent damage to the starter.
Zap
http://www.oregonchain.com/logsplitter_parts/Oregon28TonLogSplitterManual_06202011.pdf
1) Move the fuel valve lever to the ON position.
2) To start a cold engine move the choke lever to the CLOSED position. To restart a warm engine leave the choke lever in the OPEN position.
3) Move the throttle lever away from the MIN position, about 1/3 of the way toward the MAX position.
4) Turn the engine switch to the ON position.
5) Operate the starter (recoil starter). Pull the starter grip lightly until you bfeel resistance, then pull briskly. Return the starter grip gently. Do not allow the starter grip to snap back against the engine. Return it gently to prevent damage to the starter.
Zap
zapny said:
I think it's a terminology thing; choke lever "closed" is choke "on" to me; choke "open" is choke "off" to me.... Pretty sure I tried starting it according to the guidelines provided in the manual.
Here's an update:
We called the dealer and explained the surging problem. He first asked how old the initial fuel was. I explained 2 months and he immediately said that's the issue. I also explained that we drained it and filled it with fresh gas. He still says it is a fuel issue and recommends using a high octane, premium fuel and mixing it with a product called "Startron". I asked him if this was per Honda specs and he said this is what you should do for all small engines. I proceeded to explain I own two generators with Honda engines and I have never had an issue. I leave my big generator chock full of fuel that may be as old as 2 years and it runs great.
I asked him where to bring this for service and he said that we needed to try the fuel first and he would look into how to handle the service.
I checked Honda's website and all they recommend is 86 octane or higher. I don't like the idea of putting in a higher octane fuel or this additive, if it does work, I think it would only mask a problem.
Thoughts?
We called the dealer and explained the surging problem. He first asked how old the initial fuel was. I explained 2 months and he immediately said that's the issue. I also explained that we drained it and filled it with fresh gas. He still says it is a fuel issue and recommends using a high octane, premium fuel and mixing it with a product called "Startron". I asked him if this was per Honda specs and he said this is what you should do for all small engines. I proceeded to explain I own two generators with Honda engines and I have never had an issue. I leave my big generator chock full of fuel that may be as old as 2 years and it runs great.
I asked him where to bring this for service and he said that we needed to try the fuel first and he would look into how to handle the service.
I checked Honda's website and all they recommend is 86 octane or higher. I don't like the idea of putting in a higher octane fuel or this additive, if it does work, I think it would only mask a problem.
Thoughts?
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
Just about any time I think I may leave or have left fuel around for an extended amount of time I use StarTron . . . personally I would try his recommendation . . . I know other folks here have also had good luck with SeaFoam.
DMF said:
Higher octane fuel will only cost more $$. These engines do not have the compression ratios to justify premium fuel. In some areas high-test fuel has a different formulation, usually ethanol free, and this may be why he recommended the premium juice.
Go ahead and mix Startron, Seafoam, Stabil, etc in your fuel. It will not hurt your engine, most OEM's smile upon this practice and it WILL save you a headache someday.
Leaving fuel tanks filled to max capacity during storage is a great practice, keep it up.
You could pull the idle jet on the carb (small brass screw type thing, usually oriented vertically in the top of the carb) and clean it really well with carb cleaner. If that doesn't help it then I'd ask about getting the carb replaced under warranty.
Well, we drained the fuel, spayed the carb clean, mixed up some high octane with the startron stuff per the dealer's suggestion and ran the engine in the barn Friday noight until it got to operating temperature. We cycled the cylinder a dozen times and things seemed better the big test would be actually splitting wood.
Saturday I cut up a HUGE ash that fell on my property from a recent wind storm. Crushed one of my apple trees and also smashed my 10' wide lime spreader. Pictures of the tree to follow in a different thread.
My wife and I took the new splitter, turned it vertical and split one of the huge rounds into manageable chunks. Returned it to horizontal and finished that piece up. Then we went vertical again and tried round number two. This one split a few times and then got hung up on the wedge. What followed was what I initially described in 4b above.
The cylinder retracted pulling the chunk up with it. The wood jumped over the stripper and before we could react, the wood jammed itself against the handle/valve. This forces the lever to remain in the retracted position. The cylinder continued to pull the chunk back up and self destruction was immenent. The nipple between the valve and the cylinder bent as did the hard line to the cylinder's rear port, something gave way and hydrualic fluid spewed everywhere. I shut the engine off but obviously too late.
piss-poor design in my opinion. My father's 40 year old splitter (which I used the remainder of the weekend, my back can vouch for that!) has the valve mounted directly to the cylider as well, however on his the cylinder pushes the wood into the wedge; if it gets stuck, the cylinder pulls away from the wood and you beat it off the wedge with your maul; this happens often.
I think the new splitter works much better. I'm not sure if it's because it is stronger of if pushing the wedge is a better use of the power altogether. However, in that design, the valve should not be mounted anywhere near where a chunk of stuck wood, riding the wedge back, could come in contact with it. A new valve mount will be designed and mounted; pictures to follow.
On the plus side, the engine ran.......better. It still seemed to hunt a little, but it would settle out not like before. This whole "it's the gas " thing just doesn't set right with me though.
Saturday I cut up a HUGE ash that fell on my property from a recent wind storm. Crushed one of my apple trees and also smashed my 10' wide lime spreader. Pictures of the tree to follow in a different thread.
My wife and I took the new splitter, turned it vertical and split one of the huge rounds into manageable chunks. Returned it to horizontal and finished that piece up. Then we went vertical again and tried round number two. This one split a few times and then got hung up on the wedge. What followed was what I initially described in 4b above.
The cylinder retracted pulling the chunk up with it. The wood jumped over the stripper and before we could react, the wood jammed itself against the handle/valve. This forces the lever to remain in the retracted position. The cylinder continued to pull the chunk back up and self destruction was immenent. The nipple between the valve and the cylinder bent as did the hard line to the cylinder's rear port, something gave way and hydrualic fluid spewed everywhere. I shut the engine off but obviously too late.
piss-poor design in my opinion. My father's 40 year old splitter (which I used the remainder of the weekend, my back can vouch for that!) has the valve mounted directly to the cylider as well, however on his the cylinder pushes the wood into the wedge; if it gets stuck, the cylinder pulls away from the wood and you beat it off the wedge with your maul; this happens often.
I think the new splitter works much better. I'm not sure if it's because it is stronger of if pushing the wedge is a better use of the power altogether. However, in that design, the valve should not be mounted anywhere near where a chunk of stuck wood, riding the wedge back, could come in contact with it. A new valve mount will be designed and mounted; pictures to follow.
On the plus side, the engine ran.......better. It still seemed to hunt a little, but it would settle out not like before. This whole "it's the gas " thing just doesn't set right with me though.
Most new splitters have a Log Dislodger mounted to prevent exactly what happened to you.
http://www.toolfetch.com/20-ton-br021172.shtml
http://www.toolfetch.com/20-ton-br021172.shtml
It has one. Problem is it is only a few inches high (which allows a 4-way wedge to be used) and the wood chunk "jumped" over it.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
I have an older splitter with the wedge on the end of the beam. I love this set up, as the wood for me is easier to manage as it slides off the beam end. I don't like the new designs, and don't understand why they started putting the wedge on the end of the ram. I'll stick to my old style, no issues with anything dragging the wood back to hurt anything.
onetracker
Minister of Fire
zap and all -
i got the 22-ton oregon with the kohler engine and have had no problems so far, but i've only split 3-4 cords. the more i use it the easier it starts. at first, it took around 2-3 pulls. now in the warm weather i don't even close the choke and it starts in one pull. i paid $1726 with tax. its a pretty solid machine. detent real solid and precise. i love the integral log cradle. works like a champ and i'd highly recommend it. the 22-ton goes thru EVERYTHING. plus i bought it from the fine young lad just down the road and i can count on him for service. its a family bussiness since 1933. a place i'm happy to pay a few extra $$ to support. i just bought his last ms362 yesterday for $640. pretty fair price by my reckoning.
as far as the log stripper...when a log gets wedged, i bring it up slowly and watch to see how its gonna act instead of just jamming it home. plus, in verticle position, i wanna make sure i get my toes out of the way before it falls.
best
OT
i got the 22-ton oregon with the kohler engine and have had no problems so far, but i've only split 3-4 cords. the more i use it the easier it starts. at first, it took around 2-3 pulls. now in the warm weather i don't even close the choke and it starts in one pull. i paid $1726 with tax. its a pretty solid machine. detent real solid and precise. i love the integral log cradle. works like a champ and i'd highly recommend it. the 22-ton goes thru EVERYTHING. plus i bought it from the fine young lad just down the road and i can count on him for service. its a family bussiness since 1933. a place i'm happy to pay a few extra $$ to support. i just bought his last ms362 yesterday for $640. pretty fair price by my reckoning.
as far as the log stripper...when a log gets wedged, i bring it up slowly and watch to see how its gonna act instead of just jamming it home. plus, in verticle position, i wanna make sure i get my toes out of the way before it falls.
best
OT
OT, glad it's working out for you. Our local Stihl dealer started to carry the same splitters last year.
Zap
Zap
- Status
