I wanted to put tile on the wall behind my stove for the simple reason it won't get dinged up if I accidentally hit it with a split. Was wondering if there is any specific tile and grout etc that I need to use for this project? I have stone on the floor but think it would look much nicer going half way up the wall too.
Tile
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Use a thinset mortar, not an adhesive. It will need to be on a non-cumbustible sub-strate, such as durarock, if you are within the mfg. distance for combustibles. Use sanded, or unsanded grout, depending on the width of your grout lines.
pinewoodburner
Feeling the Heat
Are you wanting to do the same stove that is on the floor or a tile?
Are you looking at installing yourself or having a contractor od it? If you are doing stone there is a weight issue and you need to have someone look at the flooring (bracing under the floor) to see if it can handle the weight. Give us some more detail and some pictures would help.
Are you looking at installing yourself or having a contractor od it? If you are doing stone there is a weight issue and you need to have someone look at the flooring (bracing under the floor) to see if it can handle the weight. Give us some more detail and some pictures would help.
pinewoodburner said:
The stove is on the ground floor and there is already stone on the floor as well as the stove in place. I have adequate clearance from the stove to the wall already but there is sheetrock on the wall and as we all know it does get damaged easily even with taking every precaution not to dent it.
I have a small ledge that is in back of the stove so my idea was to only tile up to the ledge. I want to make sure I am using the proper materials and gain some knowledge before I tackled the job.
I want to do something different than what is on the floor currently because it is black stone and doubt it would look good on the wall.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
Stone veneer always transfers a dull drywall wall, into a beautiful backdrop for the stove. Just my 2 cents.
As states above, whatever you decide, Durok or approved cement board, mortar and grout, with tile if that is you want.
As states above, whatever you decide, Durok or approved cement board, mortar and grout, with tile if that is you want.
Hogwildz said:
Will take your 2 cents into consideration. As always thanks for the advice. Won't be doing the project till probably May.
Martin Strand III
New Member
I have 12x12 tile in my hearth and on the adjacent wall.
Er, it will ding with wood splits.
I have 4 tiles that need replacing, again.
And again, it's the operator, not the wood that is the controlling factor.
Aye,
Marty
Er, it will ding with wood splits.
I have 4 tiles that need replacing, again.
And again, it's the operator, not the wood that is the controlling factor.
Aye,
Marty
mfglickman
Minister of Fire
If you've got stone already you could do a slate or other stone look tile. If you're not worried about clearances just use what the tile mfr recommends as far as installing on a wall. Think you only need hardiboard/cement board for a wet location - I did a glass mosaic tile backsplash on a kitchen counter that had no sink and I put it over fresh drywall, using thinset mortar. It went on no problem.
For nice, inexpensive tile check Overstock.com - shipping is like $3 and the heavy boxes of tile show right up at your door. The UPS man hates me. LOL.
For nice, inexpensive tile check Overstock.com - shipping is like $3 and the heavy boxes of tile show right up at your door. The UPS man hates me. LOL.
If it were me, as I said, I'd go with a cementatious backer board with a vertical tile application subject to these high temperatures. The issue is the bond between the paper and the tile, using thinset. You can probably get more specific advice from you local tile vendor, but my fear of doing this that way is always that the paper will draw moisture out of the mortar too quickly, that it won't set properly, and my tile will start dropping off under the heating/cooling, expanding/contracting stress. Not something you'd want to experience. Mastic works better on wallboard, but it is also subject to lose adhesion under high temps. There may be a mastic out there that has the tolerance to endure that, but I'd want to confirm that carefully for the temps I'm expecting. You also get a little more thermal mass with the backer board, which will give you a bump in radiation over just gypsum board.
HotCoals
Minister of Fire
I work in maintenance at a large apt complex.
The tile in the tub/showers is right on drywall..not even green board.
Built in 1976.
Only have probs if the caulk or grout goes bad and the tenet doesn't tell us.
If your clearances are good just tile the drywall but micro or whatever would be even better yet.
You have to hit tile pretty hard to break it.
I would use non-sanded grout...it's easy to mix up and apply.
The tile in the tub/showers is right on drywall..not even green board.
Built in 1976.
Only have probs if the caulk or grout goes bad and the tenet doesn't tell us.
If your clearances are good just tile the drywall but micro or whatever would be even better yet.
You have to hit tile pretty hard to break it.
I would use non-sanded grout...it's easy to mix up and apply.
BlankBlankBlank
Minister of Fire
I'm not sure of clearance issues, etc. But you might consider installing the tile with an airspace (heat shield) to allow for the possibility that a future stove might need a greater clearance. Tile, backer board, your labor, etc., is an investment, so future proofing with an airspace might be wise. I also like Hogwildz suggestion to use stone veneer.
I would be tempted to suggest Durock NextGen over a 1" airspace with metal lathe and scratch coat over the top. Apply stove over that. Or skip the lathe and scratch and apply tile.
Pics, dimensions, etc., would make advice more relavent to your particular project. Good luck.
I would be tempted to suggest Durock NextGen over a 1" airspace with metal lathe and scratch coat over the top. Apply stove over that. Or skip the lathe and scratch and apply tile.
Pics, dimensions, etc., would make advice more relavent to your particular project. Good luck.
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