Boiler in the garage?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

JP11

Minister of Fire
May 15, 2011
1,452
Central Maine
My garage is quickly becoming not a garage. Cars are taking a backseat to toys and such.

I was curious the thoughts on putting the boiler and storage in the "garage" It's pretty easy for me to move out all the gas engine stuff... and gas tanks and whatnot for flammables. The only vehicles that could go in there are diesels.

From what I understand... to be legal I'd have to have the boiler walled off with fire rated sheetrock. The door to the boiler "room" would have to go into a room other than the garage. (I can accomplish this by going from the boiler room to the utility room, which is walled off from the garage.

If I were to follow this code... I'd have a removable 5' section of wall. Then I could plunk my pallets full of wood next to the boiler.

Not sure if being to code is worth it. I think with common sense I can be just as safe without the walled off part.

Thoughts?

JP
 
My boiler is in the garage, don't see why it would be a problem. It's 18" off the ground and pulls the cumbustion air from outside, so really minimal chance of an issue with fumes in the garage. I did build a closet around it just to keep paint spray, welding sparks, etc off it and to clean up the garage. It has louvred doors to allow some air movement still so nothing will overheat, plus the heat loss off it kinda heats the garage I guess.

Not all done here, but you get the idear:

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos...8250_100000579410319_1073646_1943633328_n.jpg


I use my garage for storage and parking cars as well. I'm sure pretty much everyone does that. I wish all the heating stuff was elsewhere but I don't have a basement.
 
Not sure about codes around you but I wanted to put a wood fired furnace my garage to heat the whole house but was shot down by the fact that it would make my house uninsurable. Common sense rules would not apply like the no gas or flammables in the garage. Everyone I talked to said it was a national code but I could get no real documentation just a "we could not inssure that". So i ended up putting an englander wood furnace in what used to be the garage, turned family room. I just started burning 2 weeks ago and have yet to hook it up to the existing ductwork but its blowing thru the house pretty well as is.
 
Talk to your insurance. If you don't do it how they want they can deny a claim should anything happen. I wanted to
put mine in the shop ,but got shot down so I put it in a shed. Lots of people around here have a wood burning device
in there shop and don't tell the insurance. , I just didn't want any excusses in the event of a claim.
 
My ins co re-classified the garage as a wood storage facility.
 

Attachments

  • pallets of wood..jpg
    pallets of wood..jpg
    58.1 KB · Views: 1,571
I have mine in the garage.
It is the GREATEST thing to do.
I cant imagine having it any where else.
What a mess. Dirt and wood chips from the splits, ash and soot from cleaning out.
No worries about smoke getting out during reloads.

I built a rack that holds 180-200 splits right next to the unit.
I wheel barrel the wood right in there.
Its the best.

I went through a lot of posting with guys hear at hearth.

Really best to check with your town and the state and local building codes.
Where do you live?

I read the NYS residential building code.
There is nothing against putting in a garage.
They allow "appliances" in the garage. And a gas, oil, pellet or wood boiler is considered a heating appliance.

I went to the town building dept. and spoke to the head plans examiner, I showed him a brochure from the manufacturer and gave him all the related info.
I didn't even need a permit.
I didn't need any walls or to close it off from the garage.
I had to follow some basic code rules.

It needed to be 18" above the ground to the closest combustible source.
It needed to be 12"away from any combustible wall surface. No minimum if it had fire rated sheetrock.
I forgot the distance to the ceiling.

I insulated the walls and ceiling with Roxul insulation which is fire rated.
I installed 5/8" fire rated sheetrock.
I put mine on a 12" cement base which made it 24" to any point of combustion in the front and 36" in the back.
I have an addition to the back of the garage which is stepped down.
My fresh air intake is in the back and that is almost 48" above the floor.
I also installed a fire sprinkler head above the unit.

I have plenty of air movement with the two leaky overhead doors, the two leaky regular swing doors and the gable louver vent.

At the same time I was installing the unit I just so happened to be switching insurance companies. ALLSTATE dropped most of there Long Island policies.
Because of the potential flood risk.
I now have Nationwide. They had an inspector out (standard protocol for new clients) he saw the unit and didn't know the rules.

Long story, longer. I needed to supply them with all the info about the unit, pictures and documentation from the installers.
I am a framing contractor and did all the carpentry and basic work and my HVAC sub did all the wiring and plumbing.
We are both licensed and insured for over 20 years.

Here are some pics.
PM me if you want my # to talk more about it.
1008094f.jpg

1008271g.jpg

1008375.jpg

1008713t.jpg
 
The pallets are 48x42's. The way the pallets are attached on the ends, gives me the full 48. My wood is 20 inches long. So I have two rows on a pallet. When we stack off of the splitter, we round the wood up. About as close to 1/2 a cord as you can get, with those pallets. When stacking in garage, just before winter sets in, I skim the wood off of the top. A couple times during the winter, I have to lift the top pallets and put them on the ground as needed.
 
I was forced to remove a boiler from my garge to satisfy a federal "reccomendation". It was not a law as the constitution prevents the fed from over riding state rights without permission blah blah blah. BUT the insurance companies eyes lit up in their never ending ploy to extract more premium value. (just like taxes premiums never seem to go down even if property values do). So after four years of being ok'd by the insurance company I was forced to shut down my boiler. End result know code and get the insurance company (or companies) in complete agreement or build a boiler house/shed to same having to do it in the future.
 
Cave2k said:
I was forced to remove a boiler from my garge to satisfy a federal "reccomendation". It was not a law as the constitution prevents the fed from over riding state rights without permission blah blah blah. BUT the insurance companies eyes lit up in their never ending ploy to extract more premium value. (just like taxes premiums never seem to go down even if property values do). So after four years of being ok'd by the insurance company I was forced to shut down my boiler. End result know code and get the insurance company (or companies) in complete agreement or build a boiler house/shed to same having to do it in the future.

That flippin blows.
I love this country but really hate big business.
What did you do with unit?
Are you still heating with wood?
 
flyingcow said:
The pallets are 48x42's. The way the pallets are attached on the ends, gives me the full 48. My wood is 20 inches long. So I have two rows on a pallet. When we stack off of the splitter, we round the wood up. About as close to 1/2 a cord as you can get, with those pallets. When stacking in garage, just before winter sets in, I skim the wood off of the top. A couple times during the winter, I have to lift the top pallets and put them on the ground as needed.

Thanks, that will be my first project this spring. I can place in the boiler room with the forks on the tractor and never touch the wood again between the splitter and the firebox.
 
Sawyer said:
flyingcow said:
The pallets are 48x42's. The way the pallets are attached on the ends, gives me the full 48. My wood is 20 inches long. So I have two rows on a pallet. When we stack off of the splitter, we round the wood up. About as close to 1/2 a cord as you can get, with those pallets. When stacking in garage, just before winter sets in, I skim the wood off of the top. A couple times during the winter, I have to lift the top pallets and put them on the ground as needed.

Thanks, that will be my first project this spring. I can place in the boiler room with the forks on the tractor and never touch the wood again between the splitter and the firebox.


One of the big things about wood burning is the constant handling. My garage was big enough to have two separate stacks of 8 cord each, but it was full. i came across a great deal on my tractor. The price was a steal, plus it was 6 inches shorter than my door, FEL with enough lift capacity. But smaller tractors can easily move a pallet of wood, just need to get a 3-point hitch mounted pallet forks. You want to figure 2500lbs of green wood per pallet.
 
flyingcow said:
One of the big things about wood burning is the constant handling. My garage was big enough to have two separate stacks of 8 cord each, but it was full. i came across a great deal on my tractor. The price was a steal, plus it was 6 inches shorter than my door, FEL with enough lift capacity. But smaller tractors can easily move a pallet of wood, just need to get a 3-point hitch mounted pallet forks. You want to figure 2500lbs of green wood per pallet.

Good point. The JD will not handle the load green. I will use the 873 for that. After 2 years the JD should suffice for the short, low trip to the boiler.
 
Sawyer said:
flyingcow said:
One of the big things about wood burning is the constant handling. My garage was big enough to have two separate stacks of 8 cord each, but it was full. i came across a great deal on my tractor. The price was a steal, plus it was 6 inches shorter than my door, FEL with enough lift capacity. But smaller tractors can easily move a pallet of wood, just need to get a 3-point hitch mounted pallet forks. You want to figure 2500lbs of green wood per pallet.

Good point. The JD will not handle the load green. I will use the 873 for that. After 2 years the JD should suffice for the short, low trip to the boiler.

Ya it takes a good size tractor to move a half cord of green oak. I use an old 60 horse massy. It's a good size tractor with a wide front end and the front wheels barly touch the ground when I lift the pallet up. I also stack on pallets right at the splitter. It
then goes out back for a couple years, Then right to the boiler shed by tractor. I do stack it in the boiler shed though. Not big enough area to drive the pallet in.
 
infinitymike said:
Cave2k said:
I was forced to remove a boiler from my garge to satisfy a federal "reccomendation". It was not a law as the constitution prevents the fed from over riding state rights without permission blah blah blah. BUT the insurance companies eyes lit up in their never ending ploy to extract more premium value. (just like taxes premiums never seem to go down even if property values do). So after four years of being ok'd by the insurance company I was forced to shut down my boiler. End result know code and get the insurance company (or companies) in complete agreement or build a boiler house/shed to same having to do it in the future.

That flippin blows.
I love this country but really hate big business.
What did you do with unit?
Are you still heating with wood?

I have an OWB made of concrete for the present so I am still burning wood. I had to put in new pex lines for the current boiler and it's location so progress is slow but I intend on building a storage and boiler building. The OWB I have uses around 2x the wood (bioler/pex/extra wood = $ and time) so I am jealously hanging on to the EKO40 super. My attitued was much the same as yours for some reason. :roll:
 
OK, Great. Thanks for all the replies.

I am doing near the same thing as those good looking pallets. Mine I put a brace across the center on top, and one acoss at the mid level. I did the math and thought it was closer to a third of a cord. I just put up my 20th of them today. 4 are all red oak.. but the rest will be ready for next year. I just need some 4' forks for my tractor. The 3 footers put too much pressure on the middle of the pallet when lifting. I think I can get 4 pallets in along one side of my garage, and still have the cars in there. I figure a hand pallet jack with be able to shuffle them around in the garage and get the one I'm using right up within 3' of the stove and still not be in the way of anything else. Humidity runs in the high 30s low 40s in the house.. and I was keeping the garage around 60 with the oil boiler. I plan to heat the garage and basement hotter when using wood. I figure it will really dry out the wood that last few weeks in the garage.

I can easily take fresh air from in the basement if I need to.

The insurance is the kicker. I'm of the mind that I should put it in. On the 1000 to 1 odds that IT starts my house fire... then fight it out with them. When I spoke to them about it the first time they just simply said.. Install it to code and we're happy.

Filed my taxes yesterday. Refund pays for the boiler. Now I just need the welder to finish the legs and bungs on my storage!

JP
 
I also have some pallets that have piece of 2x4 across the top. I stack 3 rows of wood on each pallet. The pallet is 48 inches wide, but i out 3 rows of 20 inch wood. Overhangs a bit, but manageable.
 
That third row of wood I think would put it over the top for the lifting ability of the tractor. Maybe not. I know that it doesn't work now with the short forks. That end frow furthest from me can get leaned outboard and popped off if I overhang much off the pallet. I bet if it was dry it wouldn't be an issue. I'm stacking it green right from the splitter, so I think using a few more pallets, but only handing the wood that one time is more important.

I just need more nice level dry gravel to put them on. The wonderful place I'm using now is supposet to have a "toy barn" on it. Soon.

JP
 
JP11 said:
That third row of wood I think would put it over the top for the lifting ability of the tractor. Maybe not. I know that it doesn't work now with the short forks. That end frow furthest from me can get leaned outboard and popped off if I overhang much off the pallet. I bet if it was dry it wouldn't be an issue. I'm stacking it green right from the splitter, so I think using a few more pallets, but only handing the wood that one time is more important.
I just need more nice level dry gravel to put them on. The wonderful place I'm using now is supposed to have a "toy barn" on it. Soon. JP

JP, I was able to buy a used set of 4' forks at Wisconsin Lift for $70. I had to sign a release form for liability and was told they may not be up to the 7000# rating. I have abused them for 20 years (even prying out boulders with the 873) and they are still in perfect condition. I would think that there would be a similar opportunity in your area.
 
Thanks

I do have the guy who sold me the carriage and forks looking for a longer set. I guess I have to just drop in a bit more often. Things are slow in Maine in the winter.

I sure like moving that much wood without lifting a finger. It should work nice. I've still got maybe 3 or 4 cords of rounds piled up. Now I just gotta get my splitter helper (my dad) to learn to cull out the red oak to set it aside for 2 summers.

JP
 
I live in Northern Michigan and was required to have a seperate entrance into my boiler room that is on the rear wall of the garage. (a lean to off the rear wall on the exterior that I turned into an insulated boiler room).

The local mechanical inspector (Rob Hilton @ Charlevoix County) told me that fossil fuel burning devices are OK to put in a garage as long as they are rasied to a height where the flames/burner is 18" of the garage floor (this is so that the gas fumes from a gas tank leak wll sink to the garage floor because they are heavier than air, thus reducing the risk of explosion).

However, solid fuel burning devices (even though the SAME flame is elevated above the floor the SAME 18" are not allowed in a garage. If they are in a garage than they must be in their own "boiler room" which cannot be accessed from a door within the garage itself (a seperate entrance is the only allowable entrance to the boiler room). I was told this is because a solid fuel burning device does not have the ability to shut off the combustion process quickly like that of a propane or oil burner.

They could be placed in a breezeway that is between a garage and a house or in the house itself but are absolutely not allowed in a garage in Michigan. I'm assuming this code is a nationwide code but I don't have the acutal documentation to back up this assumption.

Brian
 
That's the exact same code here in my neck of the woods in Virginia, Brian. Boiler room walled off from the garage, door directly to the outside. They asked for a UL listing on the boiler and to follow the manufacturers installation instructions. It's the Internatonal Building Code that's used here. Don't go againt the codes or not get inspected, or your insurance company has an easy out if you have a fire. To many flammables and fumes in a garage for it to safely house a boiler. That recent post with pictures of a burning garage should serve as ample warning. It was a wake-up call for me.

Mike
 
Michigan Residential code - Section M1905 - installed accordance with NFPA 211-2006 I don't have a copy of it, but memory says no solid burning appliances in attached garages and I don't think there is verbiage about a separate entrance. Here they allow a separate room with a spring loaded door. [same as a gas appliance setting on the floor]
 
from 2003.

please disregard the top highlighted text and refer to the highlighted ones lower down the page.

Scott
 

Attachments

  • 211-p 38.jpg
    211-p 38.jpg
    153.9 KB · Views: 676
Bigburner, I think the ticket is, if you wall off a room in your garage with no doors or openings from it to the garage , it is no longer in, or part of, the garage. That's the interpretation hereabouts. Which codebook is that attachment from Scott?

Mike
 
Status
Not open for further replies.