Storage temp dropping

You could raise the temp your controller turns the pump on and off. 156 seems a little low to have it come on to me.

I'm also curious how this would be done. I've been setting a timer to shut it off, but I'm sure there is a better way.
I have mine set to come on at 170 and it shuts off at 167 I think.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/82001/

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/80962/

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/80894/P15/#973718

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/82000/

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/36548

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/89608/

--ewd

speedyvt said:

Can anyone think of a reason a reverse acting aquastat hooked to the pump wouldn't do the trick.

Click to expand...

One problem would be that once your storage is up to temperature for as long as the circ is running all any aquastat is going to see is hot water until all of storage is mixed down to the low limit. So the pump keeps running and running, doing no good and undoing stratification.

How old is your eko 25? I thought most of the controllers will launch at 170 max? This year with my eko 60 I time my burns just right so before bed if the wood is pretty much burned up I just shut the main switch off. If I did not do this my storage water at 185* would circulate from storage back out to boiler(150' away) thru boiler and back until my return water dipped below 170*


Rob

There are a number of controllers out there that will do this for you in a hands-off fashion. I nearly pulled the trigger on a differential/setpoint controller that would have done exactly what you're asking. You basically tell it that once your output temps are within a certain number of degrees of your input temps, you close (or open) a circuit.

I ultimately decided I didn't want to invest the time and money. It also adds another point of potential failure between the boiler controller and the circ pump.

Here is the manual. http://www.newhorizoncorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/RK-2001UA-ENG11.pdf

4.2. Circulating pump parameters
Circulating pump launch temperature [P144] - temperature of water in the
boiler, which causes start of the circulating pump. Circulating pump works
independently from the control process and is launched additionally in
case of boiler overheat.


Circulating pump launch hysteresis [Ph 4] - this parameter defines what
value should temperature decrease by, below circulating pump launch.


I start my boiler with the launch temp at 165*
When it gets going good above 170* I change my launch temp to 170* my max setting on my control.

I think I have my PH setting at 2 but I am not sure. so when my temp gets down to 168* pump shuts off.

Rob

speedyvt said:

But wouldn't the aquastat allow me to turn off the pump at a higher temperature? The controller on the Eko only goes to 160 I could set the aquastat to say 175 it would then kill power to the pump until the temp rises to whatever I have the differential set at.

Click to expand...

This is what I did with my EKO I let a independent digital aquastat control when the circulator turns on and off this way I can get my storage temps much higher before letting the fire go out.The EKO controller still controls the fan.