Quadrafire Castile Pellet Insert - 2006 model - 100% Dead

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Jumper cable:
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Jumping snap disks in order
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No lights, no fans, no nothing.

It's not the snap disks. Damn.
 
Darn. With the stove plugged in, do you measure any voltage at either of the gray wires on Snap disk #3 from there to the chassis? If you look at page 14 of the manual I sent you, unplug the stove. Then remove the control box, set your meter back on ohms and test from pin (plug) 5 to the blades of the power plug. One of them should show 0 ohms (like when you touch the probes together).

With your meter set back on AC volts, the control box still unplugged, and the stove plugged in, you should read 110 volts from plug 5 and plug 12. (see the diagram). If you have power there, then it has to be the control box.
 
That pretty well says it all. You have power to the control box but the control box says 'I'm dead'. :( Don't throw the old one away. I have a sneaky suspicion that someone will offer you postage to their house. :)
 
After checking everything multiple times I got a price of $245 for a new control box from my "local" Quadrafire dealer.

Rather than waste precious time (minimum of an hour) and gas driving I just had him order the box.

I know I'm taking a chance by not trying to test my control box in his stove, but I want my stove working again ASAP.

I see no reason why something else might be the problem.

I'll update this thread when I've got new control box plugged in and hope to post picture of working Castile insert. :)


Thanks to all for the help. I do enjoy trouble-shooting my own stuff. I learn a lot in the process.

Before this issue I had no idea what a snap-disk was.
 
grendel336, Not that it has anything to do with your problem but why is there rust colored residue under the back side of your stove? You get water in there? Is that water making its way into your stove? Just a thought.
 
About 5 years ago I had an issue with my chimney. Water was dripping down onto my pellet stove every time it rained for about a month before I discovered I had a problem.

That slight rusting was due to that and has not changed in the years since after I got my chimney repaired.
 
grendel336 said:
After checking everything multiple times I got a price of $245 for a new control box from my "local" Quadrafire dealer.

Rather than waste precious time (minimum of an hour) and gas driving I just had him order the box.

I know I'm taking a chance by not trying to test my control box in his stove, but I want my stove working again ASAP.

I see no reason why something else might be the problem.

I'll update this thread when I've got new control box plugged in and hope to post picture of working Castile insert. :)


Thanks to all for the help. I do enjoy trouble-shooting my own stuff. I learn a lot in the process.

Before this issue I had no idea what a snap-disk was.

That's a great price!
 
tjnamtiw said:
That's a great price!

Yep. When he told me that I changed my plans and had him order it right then and there.

There were places on the internet selling them for a tick over $400.

This way I help support the local dealer without feeling like I'm getting *****.
plus, he sells Hammer Hot Ones, so keeping him in business is a huge benefit for me.

I loves me some Hammer Hot Ones.
 
Update. Control box was on back order and just came in late this week.

Installed and happy day I have lights in box. Exhaust fan comes on when unit is first plugged in. Blinking lights sequence through appropriately.

Igniter turns on and glows.


HOWEVER - the auger is not dropping pellets.

In fact, even if I hand feed the first batch of pellets into burnpot to get things started, the auger never comes on the add more.

I have gone through again and jumped all the snap discs to see if one is in need of replacing but nothing seems to get auger moving.

Thoughts? Is my auger motor dead too???????

What can I check next?
 
As a test try jumping the vacuum switch, do not run this way except as a test. Report back here as to what happens.

Note this doesn't mean that the vacuum switch is bad.
 
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SmokeyTheBear said:
As a test try jumping the vacuum switch, do not run this way except as a test. Report back here as to what happens.

Note this doesn't mean that the vacuum switch is bad.

The hose that goes from the vac switch to stove may be plugged?? Remove hose from vac switch and blow into hose (blowing towards stove). If there is a clog of fines, it will be at the barb where the hose connects to the auger chute.
 
I just set the control box to "0" to run the diagnostic mode. (yes - I jumped snap disc #1 per instructions)

The fans work based on sequence, but again - the feed motor never cycled on.

Is it possible the feed motor AND the control box went dead at exactly the same F'n time????

Or maybe when one of them died it's blew out the other?
 
grendel336 said:
I just set the control box to "0" to run the diagnostic mode. (yes - I jumped snap disc #1 per instructions)

The fans work based on sequence, but again - the feed motor never cycled on.

Is it possible the feed motor AND the control box went dead at exactly the same F'n time????

Or maybe when one of them died it's blew out the other?

My test has nothing to do with a snap disc it is that lovely vacuum switch. If it doesn't close you no getty any pellets.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
My test has nothing to do with a snap disc it is that lovely vacuum switch. If it doesn't close you no getty any pellets.

Sorry - overlooked this in my growing frustration. A sign I should probably take a break from this.....at any rate.

Where is vacuum switch and how do I bypass/over-ride it?

Thanks for your help by the way.
 
DexterDay said:
SmokeyTheBear said:
As a test try jumping the vacuum switch, do not run this way except as a test. Report back here as to what happens.

Note this doesn't mean that the vacuum switch is bad.

The hose that goes from the vac switch to stove may be plugged?? Remove hose from vac switch and blow into hose (blowing towards stove). If there is a clog of fines, it will be at the barb where the hose connects to the auger chute.

If hose is not clogged should I easily be able to blow through it like an open straw? Even if hopper, and probably auger, is full of pellets?
 
Vacuum switch is the silver box on the back wall of the unit on the right side. It has the hose running to it that Smokey talked about. Unplug the two wires running to it and use your jumper between the wires. Also, if you didn't know where it was then you must not have checked to see if the hose is plugged as someone earlier suggested. Do that by all means. Mine clogs up about once a season if I don't blow it out. I usually do it with my monthly cleaning. I use canned air, like you use on a computer keyboard.
 
grendel336 said:
DexterDay said:
SmokeyTheBear said:
As a test try jumping the vacuum switch, do not run this way except as a test. Report back here as to what happens.

Note this doesn't mean that the vacuum switch is bad.

The hose that goes from the vac switch to stove may be plugged?? Remove hose from vac switch and blow into hose (blowing towards stove). If there is a clog of fines, it will be at the barb where the hose connects to the auger chute.

If hose is not clogged should I easily be able to blow through it like an open straw? Even if hopper, and probably auger, is full of pellets?

Yes.
 
Did you try unplugging auger motor and running direct 110 to it to see if it works?
 
Yes. You should be able to blow through it easily.

Make sure the stove is unplugged when you are installing these jumpers. (Or at least I would, no need to burn or blow anything else out).

Jumping vacuum will narrow it down. If it turns and the stove wants to start. Its either a bad switch or a plugged hose at the barb on the chute. (The barb is open to the drop chute. Thats why pellet level should not affect the blowing through it, you will see when you find and follow hose from switch to stove).

Good luck.
 
So the only hose I see goes into the nipple in this picture right in front of the snap disc in the auger cover.

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I blow into the tube when it's connected to that nipple. Correct?
 
When you say jumping the vacuum are you talking about the snap disc on the auger tube next to that nipple, or the the connection at the other end of the tube on the back of the stove?

Also, if I ran the stove in diagnostic mode why would the auger motor check still depend on that vacuum sequence?
 
The vacuum switch is located at the other end of tube, jump the wires.
 
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