Thinking of moving PE Alderlea T5 closer to (truly) non combustible wall (brick chimney). Advice ple

Hi folks,

I'll try to make a long story a bit shorter. Renovated house and in order to have heat for Canadian winter (no other heat source at that time) I installed a quick hearth, new Alderlea T5, new lined chimney, had it WETT inspected (Canadian thing) and it works great.

The problem is that I am now going to lay a new oak hardwood floor, and my existing hearth is about 3/8" higher than the new hardwood floor will be. I want it to be flush, for appearance, as well as to avoid a tripping edge. Of course, I could put down 3/8" plywood on top of existing subfloor, before laying new hardwood. Or, I can rip out the hearth, and build a new one 3/8" lower. If I am going to rip it out, and build a new hearth, I am considering pushing the stove back, to allow more walking room in front of the stove. When I installed it, I left about 12" or more behind the stove, as I though I might stud up a new wall in front of the old chimney (see pics). But, we are now going to leave the chimney exposed (non-combustible) or at most use mortar or something similar to add a layer of durock or brick veneer.
If we were to paint the durock, would this then be considered combustible?
I currently have single wall pipe, but can change to double wall.

We are really wondering how close we can go to the old chimney, or the old chimney (covered with durock and painted) so that we can reduce how far the stove and hearth stick out into the room. I would, of course, maintain the 18" ember protection in front of the door, and 8" on the sides. (required in Canada).

The other option is to sell the T5 and buy a T4 ( quite a bit less deep) or Oslo (most of which are wider but less deep). We really love the T5 and how it burns, but I added an air to air heat pump, air hander and ducting this fall, as we would not be there often and needed an economical heat source that would keep the place at a decent temperature to prevent damage. Now, with the heat pump / air handler keeping the house at a decent temperature, the need for a powerful stove, like the T5 has been reduced quite a bit. We will still use the stove, but it will not have to be the main heat source any longer, unless the power goes out!!

House has brand new insulation R20 in walls, more in attic, new vapour barrier. Windows are very old, but have storm windows on for winter, and will eventually replace windows.

As you can see, it is not in an alcove, so lots of air flow on either side. Closest thing will be stools for new kitchen island to the left of stove, but they will be more that 18" away from stove.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Hi Ray,

Thanks for the reply! Do you think your stove would still be fine, ie the stones not too hot, if the back of the stove were only 1-2" from them?

You have given me something else to think about. As you can see, the house had a 100 year old chimney on left (no longer used), and then a new one (likely 40 +) years ago sistered onto it on the right. This is the working chimney, and the one with the liner installed.
I decided to center it on the new chimney, so my pipe would be straight. But, I like the look of your's better, as the offset pipe allows you to be centered on the chimney wall.
If I move mine back, I would consider moving it to the left as well, to be centered on the wall. This would also keep me away from the only nearby combustible item - the vertical post (4 2x4s) that hold up the carrying beam. The post is offset back 6" from the chimney, but it would be best to move the stove away from that a bit, if moving back.

I did get the optional blower with it, but haven't installed it yet, and may not. I hadn't even looked at how it bolts on, but if it takes up room at the back, I may keep using it without it. Seems to heat well with the radiation alone.

Hi Begreen - I assume the 12" you mentioned was if I stay with the single wall pipe? I believe that I can go to 5" of a combustive (rear wall) if I change to listed double wall pipe, correct?

As the vertical stud post in question is offset about 6" back from the front chimney brick, I think I should be able to push the stove back pretty much up against the brick chimney, and still maintain more than 5" to the stud post. In reality, I will likely leave an inch or two of air gap between the back of stove (Rear heat shield) and the chimney brick wall. But, that's why I am asking for your folk's opinions as well!!

I unhooked the stovepipe today, and pushed the stove back, within a couple of inches of the chimney, to see how it looked, and how much space it freed up in front of the stove.
My wife and I really liked the way it looked, and it will allow us to have a new hearth pad that is about 16" less deep than the current one. In the pic, that pretty much eliminates the full tile and partial tile at the outer end of the hearth pad. I will have to change to double wall pipe to be that close.
I then used a dolly to move the stove into another room, and used a crowbar to pry up the tiles. I broke about half of them, but we have not decided yet if we are going with the same slate tiles, or new ones. Now that we know what color oak floor will be next to the hearth, we can really see what tiles we like with it.
Unfortunately, there is still alot of mortar on the plywood base, and most screws are covered. (used alot of screws to attach to subfloor). It was a pain to try to uncover the screws, so I will bring a skill saw next time I head over there, and used an old blade to rip slots every few inches. This should allow me to pry the strips up, breaking, cutting screws as necessary...

I will lay the new hardwood floor in a few weeks time, leaving room for the new hearth pad.
Thanks for all advise!