Fancy pants 2 stroke chain saw oil?

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greythorn3

greythorn3

Minister of Fire
Oct 8, 2007
1,002
Alaska
wheelordie.com
now that i got me one of them fancy stihl saws, i was wondering what was there anything special for 2 stroke oil to use?

in my old junkers i just throw any 2 stroke oil i got in usually walmart, or some outboard 2 stroke oil. both are blue for some reason. fancy lookin anyhow.

i also use used motor oil for the bar oil, but am guilty of being to lazy allot and running bar without oil. :( hehehe
 
A friend has been running synthetic pull-on oil from walmart for many years. I switched to it a couple of years ago, after I burned down my Dolmar. I was using Klotz, left over from the fun days. I think it contributed to the failure. Definitely want to use oil for air cooled engines. I've been happy with the Poulan oil so far, though I haven't torn anything apart to see what it looks like.
 
I use whatever the hardware store has. I did read somewhere to avoid the stuff that is also good for marine use.
 
With the minimal cost difference and relatively low consumption, I have been going with the synthetic stuff. I have no way of proving if it is working any better or not.
 
Is it a new saw? The dealer told me tis fall when I bought a new Sthil that if I ran only the synthetic oil they would double the amount of time on the warrantee.
 
I say run with any name-brand synthetic oil. Im new to saws in general, so mine are all used. Had an issue with one that was carboned up pretty badly, and running some Stihl Ultra in it seemed to help remove the build up. Plus if I run a little heavy on the ratio or tune it too fat, I dont need to worry about any buildup again.

Maybe its just a mental thing, but saws are expensive, and oil is relatively cheap. If I make another order from Baileys, I would get their synthetic mix, seems pretty darn cheap.
 
30 years of riding and racing 2 stroke motorcycles in the woods. I use Golden Spectro in my saws now, ssame as my bikes.
 
Clarkbug said:
I say run with any name-brand synthetic oil. Im new to saws in general, so mine are all used. Had an issue with one that was carboned up pretty badly, and running some Stihl Ultra in it seemed to help remove the build up. Plus if I run a little heavy on the ratio or tune it too fat, I dont need to worry about any buildup again.

Maybe its just a mental thing, but saws are expensive, and oil is relatively cheap. If I make another order from Baileys, I would get their synthetic mix, seems pretty darn cheap.
Click to expand...

I'm almost through a case of Woodland Pro Synthetic with no issues....... not suprising as it is the same stuff as echo powerblend and dolmar full synthetic.
 
greythorn3 said:
now that i got me one of them fancy stihl saws, i was wondering what was there anything special for 2 stroke oil to use?

in my old junkers i just throw any 2 stroke oil i got in usually walmart, or some outboard 2 stroke oil. both are blue for some reason. fancy lookin anyhow.

i also use used motor oil for the bar oil, but am guilty of being to lazy allot and running bar without oil. :( hehehe
Click to expand...

Literally ANY 2 stroke oil will work and work just fine in a 044
 
rkshed said:
30 years of riding and racing 2 stroke motorcycles in the woods. I use Golden Spectro in my saws now, ssame as my bikes.
Click to expand...

Really? I always used Klotz in my bikes and occasionally Maxima castor (only because of the sweet smell...lol)

Back to topic. I have the baddest saw around, a Poulan Pro something or other with an 18" bar. This thing gets hammered with any 2 stroke oil I can find. If I had the privilege of owning a Stihl, I would probably use the best oil money could buy.....just sayin :)
 
to be honest with you guys i been thinking of trying whale oil in the stihl, you guys ever try that?
 
HittinSteel said:
Clarkbug said:
I say run with any name-brand synthetic oil. Im new to saws in general, so mine are all used. Had an issue with one that was carboned up pretty badly, and running some Stihl Ultra in it seemed to help remove the build up. Plus if I run a little heavy on the ratio or tune it too fat, I dont need to worry about any buildup again.

Maybe its just a mental thing, but saws are expensive, and oil is relatively cheap. If I make another order from Baileys, I would get their synthetic mix, seems pretty darn cheap.
Click to expand...

I'm almost through a case of Woodland Pro Synthetic with no issues....... not suprising as it is the same stuff as echo powerblend and dolmar full synthetic.
Click to expand...
+1 However biggest enemy is probably lack of oil regardless of kind.
 
Greythorn,

You should be running a 2-stroke oil rated for air-cooled 2-stroke engines. Synthetic is better but conventional will do fine in that 044 as well. Oil rated for outboard/marine use or liquid-cooled ATV's/dirtbikes is not designed to take the high running temperatures your 044 will see. You don't have to have fancy pants oil, just oil rated for air-cooled 2-strokes.
 
greythorn3 said:
now that i got me one of them fancy stihl saws, i was wondering what was there anything special for 2 stroke oil to use?

in my old junkers i just throw any 2 stroke oil i got in usually walmart, or some outboard 2 stroke oil. both are blue for some reason. fancy lookin anyhow.

i also use used motor oil for the bar oil, but am guilty of being to lazy allot and running bar without oil. :( hehehe
Click to expand...


NEVER use outboard (water cooled) 2-cycle in an air cooled engine such as found in chainsaws. It will eventually shorten engine life and may eventually cause catastrophic failure.

For chainsaws and similar air-cooled 2-cycle engines, use a quality 2-cycle engine oil designed for air cooled engines. If you aren't sure, use a modern oil (recently manufactured) by a quality chainsaw maker (Stihl, Husqvarna, Dolmar, etc.). Unless you are using your chainsaw for a special purpose like milling, follow the directions on the bottle (mix at 50:1).


EDIT: MasterMech, you beat me to it! I need to type faster, lol.
 
TreePointer said:
greythorn3 said:
now that i got me one of them fancy stihl saws, i was wondering what was there anything special for 2 stroke oil to use?

in my old junkers i just throw any 2 stroke oil i got in usually walmart, or some outboard 2 stroke oil. both are blue for some reason. fancy lookin anyhow.

i also use used motor oil for the bar oil, but am guilty of being to lazy allot and running bar without oil. :( hehehe
Click to expand...


NEVER use outboard (water cooled) 2-cycle in an air cooled engine such as found in chainsaws. It will eventually shorten engine life and may eventually cause catastrophic failure.

For chainsaws and similar air-cooled 2-cycle engines, use a quality 2-cycle engine oil designed for air cooled engines. If you aren't sure, use a modern oil (recently manufactured) by a quality chainsaw maker (Stihl, Husqvarna, Dolmar, etc.). Unless you are using your chainsaw for a special purpose like milling, follow the directions on the bottle (mix at 50:1).


EDIT: MasterMech, you beat me to it! I need to type faster, lol.
Click to expand...

And pine causes chimney fires. . .
 
FACT: Liquid cooled engines run on much tighter tolerances (higher compression, more RPMs) than air cooled and require MORE from premix oil, not less.
 
Bigg_Redd said:
FACT: Liquid cooled engines run on much tighter tolerances (higher compression, more RPMs) than air cooled and require MORE from premix oil, not less.
Click to expand...

You are correct, but you're missing the point. It's not just about the quantity of oil, it's about the nature of the oil itself.
 
Bigg_Redd said:
FACT: there's nothing special about premix oil with a picture of a chainsaw on it.
Click to expand...

True, but I stated for those who are not sure (n00bs and recent owners) about the quality or nature of a certain oil in a big box store, they can be assured that a mix from a chainsaw maker that's run to specifications can be run with confidence. This is for those who aren't saw/engine junkies like the rest of us.
 
TreePointer said:
Bigg_Redd said:
FACT: Liquid cooled engines run on much tighter tolerances (higher compression, more RPMs) than air cooled and require MORE from premix oil, not less.
Click to expand...

You are correct, but you're missing the point. It's not just about the quantity of oil, it's about the nature of the oil itself.
Click to expand...

Please tell me everything you know about the nature or premix oil. Start with film strength. . .
 
Big_Redd, I think you are the one here with the refinery background, right? I appreciate any information and am willing to learn. I say that without sarcasm.

My understanding is from my chemistry degree and materials science & engineering work. Although this doesn't make me an expert in this particular field and I have not specialized in petrol-chemicals and formulations, I should be able to understand any reference link you provide. Of course, this is an internet forum and you could say I'm fabricating my background. In fact, any of us could have that skepticism about one another, so that's why I provided a link to a reference and not my own writing/papers. Please provide a link so I (we all) can learn.

Reference link: http://www.ultralighthomepage.com/OIL/oil.html
Excerpt:
Water cooled two-cycle engine oils require higher levels of a heavy oil to prevent piston and cylinder wall scuffing. Because of their high average piston temperature, lighter oils evaporate too quickly from the piston cylinder contact area. The heavy base oil, which vaporizes at very high temperatures, resists evaporation and remains in place to provide lubrication to the piston and cylinder. Air cooled oil formulations must have much lower levels of the heavy base oil than water cooled engine oils. These oils require only a small amount of heavy oil to provide protection against piston scuffing and seizure at peak temperatures. High levels of heavy base oils in an oil formulated for air cooled engines can cause engine deposits. These deposits form as a result of incomplete burning of the heavy oil. The deposits can cause piston ring sticking and can eventually plug or disrupt the flow of the exhaust system, resulting in power loss and possible engine damage. Detergent additives should not be used in water cooled two-cycle oil formulations. When burned with the fuel, detergents produce an ash deposit in the cylinders. This ash deposit can possibly foul spark plugs., form exhaust port deposits which cause loss of power, and possibly create cylinder hot spots that can cause destructive pre-ignition. On the other hand, the only way to protect air cooled two-cycle engines against piston ring sticking at their high peak temperatures is to include some detergent additives in the oil formulation. Detergents provide high temperature deposit control not available from other additives used in the oil. However, in the air cooled engine, any ash deposits that could form from the detergents are dislodged by engine vibration and exhausted from the engine.
Click to expand...

I'll try to find a better reference to discuss....
 
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