dvl stove pipe

smmm · Mar 7, 2012

Okay, I know this topic has come up before on a few threads. I have always been unhappy with the way the stove adapter attached to the stove. It is not really snug and there is no way to use screws (in my opinion) without damage or screwing up the adapter... I also don't like the fact that the outer wall does not sit flush to the stove...

Anyhow, my idea is to buy the shortest piece of adjustable pipe ( i think it is 6") and only use the top piece of that. This way, I get a very snug fit because it does not have the crimped end and it will sit flush with the stove...

Any debates? I know in one post I read that the adapter is not supposed to be flush with the stove because it won't allow air to cool the pipe. I do not believe this is the case because the pipe does sit flush with the wall thimble. And when I contacted duravent about my adapter not sitting flush, they said it all depends on the stove manufacturer and stove collar. They did not say anything about an air gap and neither do the instructions.

begreen · Mar 7, 2012

We have no adapter for our DVL. The inner wall fits in the flue collar and the outer wall on the outside. The pipe sits about 1/2" above the stove top. I did drill tap holes in the flue collar so that it is screwed in place and recommend the same for your installation, regardless of solution.

Why is your adapter not sitting flush? Is there a screw, bolt or cross brace inside the flue collar that it's hitting? If so, notch the adapter to clear the obstruction.

smmm · Mar 7, 2012

Thanks BeGreen,

The inner wall of the adapter sits flush, but the outer wall does not because of my stove collar. It's because the inner wall of the adapter is about and inch longer than the outer wall.

How did you predrill and screw the holes into the dvl and stove collar. I tried this the first time I installed the dvl pipe and ruined a section of pipe. I did not know that I ruined it until I disassembled the stove pipe and saw the damage. What happened was when I attempted to predrill the hole in the dvl, I bent the inner liner of the dvl pipe which in turn pushed those areas away from the collar.

Why do you recommend screwing it to the collar? This is why I thought about using the top piece of the adjustable pipe because I can wedge it into the stove collar at least two inches and it is a very tight fit... I know when I tried to do the installation that you are referring to, I could only get the pipe to slide into the collar about an inch or less. This is why I tried to use screws.

ProjectX · Mar 8, 2012

I think the outer shell of the DVL needs to be up about 1/2 inch to allow air to enter the airspace between the inner and outer and covect up to the thimble. Wouldnt this be how the DVL protects and reduces clearances? If the adapter sat flush were would the air enter from?

X

Motor7 · Mar 9, 2012

I just finished my install. I have DVL from the basement to the main floor then Class A the rest of the way up through the cathedral ceiling. The DVL adapter sits right on the stove top flush, no space underneath. With the H1 running full tilt(stove top at 750 degrees) I can hold my hand 1" away from the DVL and not feel any significant heat. So I really don't think it hurts it to sit flush and I think once it gets warm it is pulling in air from many different places along the pipe and it's fittings.

ProjectX · Mar 9, 2012

I was more thinking in a over-fire situation. I guess its a question for the manufacture?

Old post here talks about airflow for DVL https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/41580

X

Motor7 · Mar 9, 2012

I understand the concern, but I can't find anything in the instructions requiring a gap at the stove top, so I'm thinking it's not s critical thing. Compared to Class A, DVL joints are really loose, so I think a lot of air sneaks in. But I have been wrong a time or two before

ProjectX · Mar 9, 2012

LOL..... I know ive been wrong more than a time or two (I wish it was only a time or two...just ask my ex's). My thought was when things really heat up everything swells up and get larger those air gaps close up as inner pipe turns red.
I really don't know the answer i guess its kinda just random thoughts of how stuff works and my ramblings about such thoughts. I might just send a e-mail or make a call Simpson for more info.

X

begreen · Mar 9, 2012

I would just install it the way it fits now. In a few weeks you will completely forget about the gap. Focus on safety, that's more important.

Any connector pipe installation needs 3 screws per pipe joint and it needs to be secured to the stove. For safety sake, you want a solid unit from stove to ceiling. This is to prevent accidental separation from knocking the pipe. It is also important if there is a large puffback (which several folks here have had the surprise of seeing). In our region, you for sure want them there. Earthquakes can make a stove walk.

When drilling, you need to predrill the inner liner too, but with a smaller bit that matches the shank (not the thread) of the screws. We have a 45 elbow coming off the collar. Here is how it sits.

ProjectX · Mar 9, 2012

Bgreen,

That about the same gap I have on my englander. I also thought it was odd when i installed but now don't even notice it.

X

Motor7 · Mar 9, 2012

PX,

"I might just send a e-mail or make a call Simpson for more info."

If you do, post the answer here to satisfy our curiosity..........

ProjectX · Mar 9, 2012

Absolutely will.

smmm · Mar 9, 2012

Okay...

BeGreen, You talked me into the screws. I had to widen the holes in my collar a bit. I used self tapping screws and it went through the dvl pipe with no problems. I ended up using the 6" adjustable pipe for my first piece because I could push it down more.

NEW QUESTION;

--After all this talk, I am now concerned about the pipe that connects to the wall thimble with the cc adapter... There is definitely some "play" with that piece even though I can't pull it off with out a lot of force. I can wiggle it though with out the other pipes connected to it. With the other pipes connected, it becomes more rigid. Any ideas?

ProjectX · Mar 9, 2012

Thats a sore spot for me "I HATE THE DVL TO THIMBLE ATTACHMENT" I would like to see a more fixed/secure connection. I put some cement on after each cleaning but it still sucks poor design if you ask me.

X

begreen · Mar 9, 2012

Yup, it's just a wussy little stainless sleeve with stop tabs on it. Insert and rotate to lock. Don't force it and it will be fine.

smmm · Mar 9, 2012

Found out that duravent changed this. They now have a new cc adapter that looks like it has a slip cover that screws to the wall wall thimble. Not sure if it's compatible to our system. If it is, might be worth the switch.? Check it out in there catalog and let me know what you guys think...

smmm · Mar 9, 2012

If you have DuraTech you will use the new finishing collar that has the adapter built in. Â
If you have the DuraPlus chimney then yes the new DVL adapter will work with your wall thimble.

That is the quote from duravent...

begreen · Mar 10, 2012

I see this in their new catalog. If you get one, please take some close up shots. I wouldn't mind switching our cc adapter to this one if it's completely compatible. Looks like it might be.

wkpoor · Mar 10, 2012

smmm said:
Okay, I know this topic has come up before on a few threads. I have always been unhappy with the way the stove adapter attached to the stove. It is not really snug and there is no way to use screws (in my opinion) without damage or screwing up the adapter... I also don't like the fact that the outer wall does not sit flush to the stove...

Anyhow, my idea is to buy the shortest piece of adjustable pipe ( i think it is 6") and only use the top piece of that. This way, I get a very snug fit because it does not have the crimped end and it will sit flush with the stove...

Any debates? I know in one post I read that the adapter is not supposed to be flush with the stove because it won't allow air to cool the pipe. I do not believe this is the case because the pipe does sit flush with the wall thimble. And when I contacted duravent about my adapter not sitting flush, they said it all depends on the stove manufacturer and stove collar. They did not say anything about an air gap and neither do the instructions.

I don't use screws on the connection to the stove. Its a captive install. How could the pipe possibly come free of it.

smmm · Mar 10, 2012

I ordered one. Curiosity got the best of me. I will take pictures when it comes.

dvl stove pipe

Member

Mooderator

Member

Member

Feeling the Heat

Member

Feeling the Heat

Member

Mooderator

Attachments

Member

Feeling the Heat

Member

Member

Member

Mooderator

Member

Member

Mooderator

Minister of Fire

Member

Similar threads