Fancy pants 2 stroke chain saw oil?

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Poulan synthetic from walmart for the saw and gallons of supertech TCW 2 stroke oil for the diesel truck.
 
Highbeam said:
gallons of supertech TCW 2 stroke oil for the diesel truck.

Elaborate, please. That thing got a Detroit? I remember pouring oil in them, but only because it ran out the bottom.
 
jeff_t said:
Highbeam said:
gallons of supertech TCW 2 stroke oil for the diesel truck.

Elaborate, please. That thing got a Detroit? I remember pouring oil in them, but only because it ran out the bottom.

Going to guess it's because the new low sulphur fuels suck at lubing the injector pumps. I do the same thing on my Massey unless I am burning #2 fuel oil in it. Damn injector pump is more than the whole machine is worth.
 
Pallet Pete said:
I have a couple of buddies who swer by this stuff http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-2-cycle-oil personally I just use the oil from the manufacturer. In my case poulan synthetic and echo synthetic which works great. I have run amsoil in my car before and can tell the difference between cheap oil and that there fancy stuff ;-)

Edit ) here is the right link http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atp.aspx



Good luck
Pete

Biggest change I noticed switching from Stihl HP Ultra to Amsoil Saber Pro was the total lack of smoke and no carbon on the plastics near the exhaust outlet. If my BR600 likes it then I trust it in any of my 2-strokes. The 4-Mix is as picky as they come when it comes to pre-mix oil.
 
jeff_t said:
Highbeam said:
gallons of supertech TCW 2 stroke oil for the diesel truck.

Elaborate, please. That thing got a Detroit? I remember pouring oil in them, but only because it ran out the bottom.



I run about 1/2oz 2 stroke oil per 1 gallon diesel fuel in my Dodge/Cummins. That comes out to about 16oz when I fill up. It's to keep the lift pump and injection pump happy.
 
I use Husky oil as i can get it at Lowes. Way more than a bottle at walmart but it has a fuel stabilizer in it and has proven good for a year easy. Also i figure whats an extra few bucks a year on a $500 saw?

I do run walmart bar oil or poulan now i think. There is no reason for me to use dirty oil when that $7 or what ever it costs at walmart will last me almost a year. A worn out oil pump from trash is gonna cost more than that. Also, im no treehugger by any means but i really dont think thats an approved use of old motor oil. Its considered hazordous waste, and has to be used proper. If the wrong person sees you in the wrong place, ie cutting on public land, it may or may not be good? I know the poulan stuff is oil, but its not contaminated oil.
 
greythorn3 said:
sounds like im fine running the free outboard oil i got in my 044 as i have been running it in all my other 2 strokes then. wow this sure is a big debate.

I really would not do that! Its designed for liquid cooled engines that run way cooler than an air cooled engine. This means the oild will burn off to fast in your saw as its designed to be used in a cooler engine. A boat head can be touched for a few seconds even after a run in it. A saw no way i would touch the head for a few seconds after 5 mins of cutting.

Same is true for a boat run on air cooled oil, wont complete burn and will form carbon deposits on the piston and chanbers.

Seriously it only takes one more oil bottle and one more gas can if you keep your boat gas in a can? I buy saw gas maybe twice a year three times if i only mix 1 gallon sometimes. Its not a huge pain to have another tiny bottle on your shelf.

I have a 65cc ish saw (stihl) and if i mix just under 2.5 gals it will last me a long time!
 
jeff_t said:
Highbeam said:
gallons of supertech TCW 2 stroke oil for the diesel truck.

Elaborate, please. That thing got a Detroit? I remember pouring oil in them, but only because it ran out the bottom.

No Detroit, oddly the older chevy 6.22/6.5 were made by detroit but were not the two stroke type.

The Ford diesels from 94.5 until about 2008 used a hydraulic actuated injector that depends on 3000 psi engine oil to pressurize a chamber of fuel with a tiny plunger which squirts the fuel into the cylinder. A pretty hokey design compared to a typical rotary injection pump. This hydraulic design in particular depends on the lubricating properties of the diesel fuel to operate properly.

When the EPA required removal of sulfur, the process used also removes the lubricity of the fuel making modern diesel very dry and sticky which wears the hydraulic injectors quickly. These injectors cost a couple thousand bucks to replace and as soon as modern diesel is put in they start clacking and ticking like crazy. Adding one ounce of TCW per gallon of diesel immediately quiets the injectors to normal levels and hopefully extends the injector life.

I use off-road diesel and Power Service additive for lubricity in my tractor but it uses a traditional rotary pump.
 
Highbeam said:
jeff_t said:
Highbeam said:
gallons of supertech TCW 2 stroke oil for the diesel truck.

Elaborate, please. That thing got a Detroit? I remember pouring oil in them, but only because it ran out the bottom.

No Detroit, oddly the older chevy 6.22/6.5 were made by detroit but were not the two stroke type.

The Ford diesels from 94.5 until about 2008 used a hydraulic actuated injector that depends on 3000 psi engine oil to pressurize a chamber of fuel with a tiny plunger which squirts the fuel into the cylinder. A pretty hokey design compared to a typical rotary injection pump. This hydraulic design in particular depends on the lubricating properties of the diesel fuel to operate properly.

When the EPA required removal of sulfur, the process used also removes the lubricity of the fuel making modern diesel very dry and sticky which wears the hydraulic injectors quickly. These injectors cost a couple thousand bucks to replace and as soon as modern diesel is put in they start clacking and ticking like crazy. Adding one ounce of TCW per gallon of diesel immediately quiets the injectors to normal levels and hopefully extends the injector life.

I use off-road diesel and Power Service additive for lubricity in my tractor but it uses a traditional rotary pump.

I have a 6.5. Alternate between whatever 2 stroke oil I happen to buy and non-detergent motor oil. Damn thing sounds like it is going to blow up if I forget.

I use Husky oil from Lowes. Call me lazy but I like that they size the bottles for 50:1 of common gas tank sizes. Have a 2.5 gallon tank, get the 2.5 gallon Husky 2 stroke container.
 
Back in the day didn't they just pour a quart/pint of 10w in a gallon of fuel?
rather than worrying about buying expensive oil I just mix it richer, as noted all the 50:1 mixes are EPA regs not to extend the 2-strokes life.
 
BASOD said:
Back in the day didn't they just pour a quart/pint of 10w in a gallon of fuel?
rather than worrying about buying expensive oil I just mix it richer, as noted all the 50:1 mixes are EPA regs not to extend the 2-strokes life.
more or less you hit the nail on the head. BUT, I would at least use a TCW3 oil designed for two-strokes. In my older saws I run my mis at 35:1, and tune the saw accordingly. Never ever had a single problem doing it that way, and I have never fouled a plug either.....
 
Highbeam said:
jeff_t said:
Highbeam said:
gallons of supertech TCW 2 stroke oil for the diesel truck.

Elaborate, please. That thing got a Detroit? I remember pouring oil in them, but only because it ran out the bottom.

No Detroit, oddly the older chevy 6.22/6.5 were made by detroit but were not the two stroke type.

The Ford diesels from 94.5 until about 2008 used a hydraulic actuated injector that depends on 3000 psi engine oil to pressurize a chamber of fuel with a tiny plunger which squirts the fuel into the cylinder. A pretty hokey design compared to a typical rotary injection pump. This hydraulic design in particular depends on the lubricating properties of the diesel fuel to operate properly.

When the EPA required removal of sulfur, the process used also removes the lubricity of the fuel making modern diesel very dry and sticky which wears the hydraulic injectors quickly. These injectors cost a couple thousand bucks to replace and as soon as modern diesel is put in they start clacking and ticking like crazy. Adding one ounce of TCW per gallon of diesel immediately quiets the injectors to normal levels and hopefully extends the injector life.

I use off-road diesel and Power Service additive for lubricity in my tractor but it uses a traditional rotary pump.

That all makes sense. I wrote off owning a diesel pickup when I sold my Dodge in 05. It had some pump issues that would, strangely enough, disappear when I ran B20 in it. I guessed that the VP44 had a solenoid sticking in it or something, and the added lubricity of the biodiesel would clear it up. Could only see things going downhill from there, so I sold to some kid, bought a V10 Excursion, and never looked back.
 
Biodiesel is an excellent lubricity additive. As low as B2 will completely repair the damage done by the process of stripping sulfur.Unfortunately biodiesel is not readily available in my area.
 
BASOD said:
Back in the day didn't they just pour a quart/pint of 10w in a gallon of fuel?
rather than worrying about buying expensive oil I just mix it richer, as noted all the 50:1 mixes are EPA regs not to extend the 2-strokes life.

I mix 40:1 in my saw. PEr stihl recomendations your only suppose to mix 50:1 with stihl oil any other oil it says to mix 25:1!!!! Even old johnson outboards from the 70s are mixed 50:1 i think that is close to the epa start may they came after the 72 era enviro legislation?

Anyway they "old" 2 strokes were more sloppy not as high performance machines, they gummed up fouled out and didnt last as long on that oil that was inferior for its use. But yes any oil today is probly better than then, i would use the correct formulation though, it dosent cost that much.
 
Agreed on all the above, I've monkied around and tried the 30:1, and settled at 40:1. I don't cut alot of wood when the mosquitos are out so no need to smoke them off :)
atleast to this point it's kept the husky blower, cheapo weedeater brand trimmer, old school brushcutter and saw all running smoothtly.

I have a confession though my only 2-stroke failure came from my(possibly alcohol induced) lack of attention to the 2 gallon can I mixed with one bottle of poulan oil.
Yeah that killed the old poulan farmhand and a cheap weedeater blower that the GF really needed to run one afternoon when I'd had a few totties.
 
clemsonfor said:
BASOD said:
Back in the day didn't they just pour a quart/pint of 10w in a gallon of fuel?
rather than worrying about buying expensive oil I just mix it richer, as noted all the 50:1 mixes are EPA regs not to extend the 2-strokes life.

I mix 40:1 in my saw. PEr stihl recomendations your only suppose to mix 50:1 with stihl oil any other oil it says to mix 25:1!!!! Even old johnson outboards from the 70s are mixed 50:1 i think that is close to the epa start may they came after the 72 era enviro legislation?

Anyway they "old" 2 strokes were more sloppy not as high performance machines, they gummed up fouled out and didnt last as long on that oil that was inferior for its use. But yes any oil today is probly better than then, i would use the correct formulation though, it dosent cost that much.

I've got a mid-70's Remington SL-9 that I ran a couple tanks of 80:1 AMSOIL Saber Professional through it without issue. No smoke, all power! Haven't run it since so no report on long-term effects. (Saw is a "toy" and desperately needs a clutch sprocket.)
 
after reading this thread,now i know why the boat people don't run my oil. after all these years! :sick:
 

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