Seeking Info on a ATV

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I have an '03 Bombardier (CanAm) TraxterMax. 500cc, 4WD with front auto-locking differential. I plow my 1000' long driveway, through the woods, fairly steep, with this machine....it is its primary use. When I was looking, I wanted the heaviest thing I could find, thinking it would plow better. It does a fabulous job plowing...and never have a problem pulling. This Christmas I had 6 people on the thing and we pulled a 15' christmas tree back from the bush....no problems.

I did have to replace the starter a couple of years ago and this fall I had to replace the front half axle. $550 for the front half axle! Holy Cow! Looked long and hard for any other way.

Many folks told me I was wasting my money thinking this would plow....but I couldn't be happier actually.
 
firefighterjake said:
BASOD said:
I shopped long and hard before buying my foreman used from a guy that wanted to get out from under the payments it had 20hrs/100mi.
$3800 vs over $6500 new it was sweet deal. Be cautious in the used market though there are tons of newer makes out there that have been flogged on
Can Am makes a nice machine with a price tag to boot as well.
Kawasaki(may be Suzuki) has a neat feature of on demand mechanical locking front diff(honda's are full time locked), makes it easier to turn but it's there when needed. Good info for the most part . . . but I think there are a few errors . . . this being one. To my knowledge no Honda has locking front differentials. Some models have a selectable 2WD/4WD system, but to my knowledge this is a torque sensitive front differential meaning that both front tires are not locked and turning at the same time (a fact some other makes and models like to tout as they say they have true 4WD -- although in my experience this is often not always or often needed.) You can incidentally "fool" the Honda ATVs into reducing the front wheel spin by lightly tapping your front brakes.

Thing that steered me away from one is the belt drive tranny, even though I was told they are extremely reliable unless you constantly plan on burying it in mud. I was a bit leery of this myself . . . and I have seen some ATVs with belt drives have problems . . . but typically this is when they're riding in mud or water right up to the seat . . . normal use is typically not a problem and I honestly would not have any issues recommending an ATV with or without a belt drive.

Honda has wet clutch synchronized gear tranny, I stayed away from the electronic shift transmission and found the true manual cause that's what I was used too, and long term reliability. Same here . . . I figure simple is good . . . and my buddy with the Foreman with Electronic Shift has had some issues in the past with moisture causing the ES to not work temporarily. The disadvantage to the foot shift is two fold -- 1) (and this problem is shared with the ES as well) folks need to learn when to shift up and down (it's a quick learning curve though) and 2) some folks like the protection of floorboards for their feet. That said, I still like the standard shift.

The guys at the dealership said the new power steering option isn't really needed for anyone our size. Yes and no . . . while big guys might have no issues moving the ATV around without power steering, PS does offer two benefits . . . 1) easier turning at low speeds and 2) while trail riding if you hit a bump, root, etc. the PS is able to reduce or even prevent the handlebars from that sudden twitch in your hands. That said, it's a nice feature, but I've never felt compelled to spend the extra money on this feature.

He deffinately recommended going with the foreman or rubicon(basically a foreman with IRS) due to the 2 shock rearend over the rancher(single shock lower powered machine). I think there is a correction here . . . the Rubicon is quite a bit differnt from the Foreman in that it has a totally different transmission (more like a garden tractor's hydrostatic transmission as it is fully automatic or you can use the Electronic Shift feature . . . and the Rubicon to my knowledge does not have IRS but instead has the straight axle with springs -- I believe the only two models now with IRS are the Rincon and one particular model of the Rancher.) That said . . . both the Foreman and Rubicon are well known as work machines.

Whichever one you choose the work you're planning on doing will mandate 4wd. Having selectable 2/4wd is nice when not in a situation needing it seems to make it easier to turn and saves the front tires some. I agree 100% on both these points -- having 4WD is very useful, almost mandatory and having selectable 2WD/4WD is a nice feature . . . especially if you don't have power steering

I think you nailed it Jake. I will add that the Rubicon has dual rear shocks monted to a solid rear axle.

I am a big fan of the Hondamatic. It is smooth, quiet, and the engine breaking is outstanding. I like the option of using ESP too. Between the high/low, D1/D2, and ESP you can easily find the perfect power/RPM ratio for any job. Low range ESP1 is super granny gear and high range D2 is a low RPM cruise. When I ride my dad's sportsman the low is often too low or the high too high. The only downside is the 5qt oil changes because of the extra fluid needed for the hydrostatic trans.

The suspension is way, way better than a rancher...probably because it is heavier.

I would love to have EFI just for the cold starts...mine tends to be a little cold natured...but still easily starts in the single digits....and probably beyond that.
 
BASOD said:
My buddy(with his rancher) and I ride on this old weapons depot that is open as offroad park.
There's holes on this thing that would swallow full size trucks.

I don't abuse mine like that though. The only place he can get that I can't is inside one of the old concrete artillery bunkers - the door is ~2in too narrow for the foreman but the rancher fits in.
It's coolest sound inside one just amplifies the thump of the muffler while doing broadies on the slick concrete floor

Our sister club has a giant culvert that runs under a road . . . very similar effect . . . and very fun . . . especially for newbies to the trail system as the culvert is partially hidden and you're just riding along and then you turn in and you see how the trail leads into the culvert.
 
BASOD said:
EJL923 said:
I have a question for my own info but it may help the OP's question. If buying used, how many miles is a lot on an atv? I realize this can vary greatly with the way people take care of them, but kinda like a car, there's a point where even a well kept car should be kept away from.

This is where you have to be a really informed consumer.
Stay away from anything with a lift kit or a snorkel, its more than likely been buried over someones chest at some point in its life.
Many of the older models didn't have hour meters/odometers so no way of actually knowing the amount of use.

Seats often wear out from machines being left outdoors which makes them look ragged but if it has original tires or one set is worn it was probably just used very little and sat in the yard, may be saw alot of pavement etc.

looking under seat/battery box etc and any signs of mud baked on the block fins is a pretty good sign the thing has been used.
they are built for abuse though, and alot guys that ride regularly trade up on a regular basis or people get an urge to buy and then have that monthly payment that they're looking to get rid of.
The used ATV market is a true buyer beware thing.

+1 . . . excellent advice. It's really hard I think to say that X miles is low miles and Y miles is too much. Generally I figure if you find something under 500 miles you're doing pretty well (at least in my area) and in some cases you can get lucky and find the guy that just bought the ATV to go hunting once or twice a year or the person who thought it would be a fun activity and rushed out to buy an ATV and then discovered that he didn't have the time or his wife didn't like it and you can find one with even fewer miles.

That said . . . it really does come down to the person and the use as BASOD says . . . you can have a person with low miles who really abused their machine with a lot of mud bogging, hard plowing, etc. . . . or a person who has an ATV with high miles that cleans it after every long ride and is super diligent in maintaining it.

In my own case I bought my brother's ATV even though I knew the abuse and condition as I was able to get it cheap . . . bought my present ATV brand new . . . but if the right deal came along I would not hesitate to look at a lightly used ATV. Some people are able to get some very good deals. One member of our club ended up with an "older" Honda Rincon that had something like 50 or 60 miles on it. Friend of the family lawyer bought it to use hunting . . . when the bigger and badder version of this model came out he sold it to her cheaply. Co-worker bought a Yamaha Grizzly 700 for a good price after the original owner had a medical problem and needed the cash so he sold it to a friend . . . friend bought it as a way of helping the guy out but wasn't interested in riding it and sold it to my co-worker . . . something like 42 or 46 miles on the odometer.
 
Backwoods Savage said:
I got one a year ago and the choice was between Yamaha and Honda. Bought a Yamaha Grizzly 700.

Thoughts on something mentioned above with the higher machine. This goes back to when I purchased the first atv we ever owned. Dealer was trying to sway me to one particular machine and offered a good deal. The reason I bought the one I did was because it did have a higher seat. This is also one of the problems with the Honda's is that the seat is too low. It has a bad effect with my bad back.

On the power steering. When they came out with it I scoffed. Now I have the power steering and absolutely love it. Mostly because I do a lot of backing up with a trailer so I can sit sideways on the atv and steer one handed and it steers very easy. Also it helps when plowing snow.

The reason I got the last new one was to get independent suspension.

It may not just be the height of the seat though Dennis . . . the one Grizzly I test rode on some folks that I was riding with had an unbelievable comfy ride . . . and honestly while it felt just a bit taller than my Honda it still seemed to have a relatively low center of gravity.

Dennis does bring up a good point incidentally . . . folks with bad backs would most likely do much, much better with independent rear suspensions.
 
if work is more important to you go Honda Foreman or Rubicon. if your going to have more trail time get a Polaris or other IRS quad.

if your trail speed is 20mph or less Honda's are OK but if your going to try and go 30-40mph the Honda's will be rough riding.

this from a guy who has an 02 Honda Foreman with 3,000 miles and a 02 Honda Rancher with 6,000 miles and both have been great machines to me.

good luck. if you want to know weak points of any quad your looking to buy spend some time on Highlifter.com which is a Mud bike site more or less but they can tell you the Good and Bad of any make or model over there with a little looking around.

sublime out.
 
I had an Arctic Cat 650cc v-twin 4 years ago. It was very reliable, started easily. I used it for plowing snow and also had a DR grader for grooming our 1/3 mile gravel driveway. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Arctic Cat, but just as with chainsaws, having a knowledgeable and reliable dealer close by is critical in choosing a brand. Get electronic fuel injection regardless of the make...you don't want to be messing with carburetors.
 
I've had good luck with my 2004 Polaris 700 EFI. My dad still has his '85 Honda TRX 250 ATV that he bought new. Only thing that has ever failed is the starter which was rebuilt. Carb has never been rebuilt. Last year I bought a cherry '85 TRX 250 from my bosses parents. It almost looked new.... and for only $300. I thought I was buying a parts machine and nearly fell over when I saw it.
 
My Polaris has been outside under cover since new at the cabin and fires up first time. EFI probably doesn't hurt that part either. I've moved around a 20 foot fiberglass boat on a trailer from time to time as well. It really sags but does the job.
 
I'm a little shorter, just as heavy, and had the same needs. Got a 2003 Polaris Big Boss 6x6. Hold 800lbs in the bed, tows 1500lbs, and can crawl over pretty much anything. The ride isn't quite as smooth as an IRS, but it's a great work machine. I liked it so much, I bought a second one for the wife. With the side panels, I can haul 1/5 cord. Yet, we still take them on the trails for fun.
 

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DanCorcoran said:
I had an Arctic Cat 650cc v-twin 4 years ago. It was very reliable, started easily. I used it for plowing snow and also had a DR grader for grooming our 1/3 mile gravel driveway. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Arctic Cat, but just as with chainsaws, having a knowledgeable and reliable dealer close by is critical in choosing a brand. Get electronic fuel injection regardless of the make...you don't want to be messing with carburetors.

I wouldn't say EFI is crucial . . . I've never had any issues with carbs other than the fact I have to choke the ATV to get it going and in cold weather it starts a little slower.

That said . . . if I had a choice I would go with EFI simply due to its superiority in cold weather and possible fuel savings.
 
OK most go way to big than ever needed on an ATV. An older smaller one will serve you well also. Look at anything Honda(personal preference) that aint ragged out. I have an 89 trx300 and have ridden my uncles 98trx300 (same atv really). It will ride my wife and i fine on it, not much seat room for her but after all there not for riders!! But im 6'2' and 220lbs my wife is shorter at 5'4" but is thick (i like that) and my point is the 2 of us weigh more than you alone and even up to a say 6 yr old as a passenger. I can easily put a deer on the front and ride it out. The machine will take us both to say 36-40mph topped out which is fast on all but the biggest wide dirt roads.

I think a new if you want new, 300 would easily do what you want. Also 4x4 in my opinion is just extra weight expense and $$. Unless your in a pond, soft creek bottom or pulling one of those atv plows your should not ever need 4x4. My 2x4 trx 300 will crawl through stuff that would stick a normal truck in a road, stuff that log trucks have wollowed out to the axle.
 
MasterMech said:
Nothing against Honda's in general but I worked a Foreman 400 (air cooled) and on 80 degree + days I'd have to let it cool down on long rides. If you plan on working any size machine, liquid cooling is far superior for high load/slow speeds. If you really want to pull, hard to beat the torque of a twin cyl! ;-) Rode a friends CanAm 650 and holy HP Batman! Rode smooth, went anywhere, and had enough get up and go to keep up with the kids!

never overheated my uncles 300trx working in the hot or riding on 100F days.

At work i have overheated a sportsman 500 polaris working a plotmaster in the summer (liquid cooled). These things are really not meant to plow anything other than small fluffy dirt patches, get a real tractor if this is your need.


And to the others, man a 60+ hp 4 wheeler!!!! my ford ranger new only had 110 hp, thats a death trap!!
 
clemsonfor said:
OK most go way to big than ever needed on an ATV. An older smaller one will serve you well also. Look at anything Honda(personal preference) that aint ragged out. I have an 89 trx300 and have ridden my uncles 98trx300 (same atv really). It will ride my wife and i fine on it, not much seat room for her but after all there not for riders!! But im 6'2' and 220lbs my wife is shorter at 5'4" but is thick (i like that) and my point is the 2 of us weigh more than you alone and even up to a say 6 yr old as a passenger. I can easily put a deer on the front and ride it out. The machine will take us both to say 46-40mph topped out which is fast on all but the biggest wide dirt roads.

I think a new if you want new, 300 would easily do what you want. Also 4x4 in my opinion is just extra weight expense and $$. Unless your in a pond, soft creek bottom or pulling one of those atv plows your should not ever need 4x4. My 2x4 trx 300 will crawl through stuff that would stick a normal truck in a road, stuff that log trucks have wollowed out to the axle.

I disagree on 4x4. My quad will go through about anything in 2WD, but once you start dragging/pulling/towing/plowing...you need that extra traction in slick conditions. There's a trail I run when cutting wood that has an uphill grade and, with a trailer full of wood in tow, there is no possible way you are making it up without 4x4 when the ground is wet. In 4x4 I have to get a healthy run at it and still spin all the way up it.

4x4 makes snow a lot more manageable too.

Dragging dead weight takes a lot of CC's. 300 may do the job, but it will be hard on it.
 
lukem said:
clemsonfor said:
OK most go way to big than ever needed on an ATV. An older smaller one will serve you well also. Look at anything Honda(personal preference) that aint ragged out. I have an 89 trx300 and have ridden my uncles 98trx300 (same atv really). It will ride my wife and i fine on it, not much seat room for her but after all there not for riders!! But im 6'2' and 220lbs my wife is shorter at 5'4" but is thick (i like that) and my point is the 2 of us weigh more than you alone and even up to a say 6 yr old as a passenger. I can easily put a deer on the front and ride it out. The machine will take us both to say 46-40mph topped out which is fast on all but the biggest wide dirt roads.

I think a new if you want new, 300 would easily do what you want. Also 4x4 in my opinion is just extra weight expense and $$. Unless your in a pond, soft creek bottom or pulling one of those atv plows your should not ever need 4x4. My 2x4 trx 300 will crawl through stuff that would stick a normal truck in a road, stuff that log trucks have wollowed out to the axle.

I disagree on 4x4. My quad will go through about anything in 2WD, but once you start dragging/pulling/towing/plowing...you need that extra traction in slick conditions. There's a trail I run when cutting wood that has an uphill grade and, with a trailer full of wood in tow, there is no possible way you are making it up without 4x4 when the ground is wet. In 4x4 I have to get a healthy run at it and still spin all the way up it.

4x4 makes snow a lot more manageable too.

Dragging dead weight takes a lot of CC's. 300 may do the job, but it will be hard on it.

I meant to say 4x4 is good for plowing etc, guess i left it out. And yes if your dragging a trailer in the woods up wet slick leaves you will have trouble as well as just trying to back uphill on leaves with just 2x4. I personally have only had a few instances where i would ever have needed 4x4. But i stand corrected, depends on what you use your atv for. We rarely get snow down here and when we do we sure as heck dont "plow" it? Also most wood is cut close to a road and i dont use atv for that.
 
BASOD said:
EJL923 said:
I have a question for my own info but it may help the OP's question. If buying used, how many miles is a lot on an atv? I realize this can vary greatly with the way people take care of them, but kinda like a car, there's a point where even a well kept car should be kept away from.

This is where you have to be a really informed consumer.
Stay away from anything with a lift kit or a snorkel, its more than likely been buried over someones chest at some point in its life.
Many of the older models didn't have hour meters/odometers so no way of actually knowing the amount of use.

Seats often wear out from machines being left outdoors which makes them look ragged but if it has original tires or one set is worn it was probably just used very little and sat in the yard, may be saw alot of pavement etc.

looking under seat/battery box etc and any signs of mud baked on the block fins is a pretty good sign the thing has been used.
they are built for abuse though, and alot guys that ride regularly trade up on a regular basis or people get an urge to buy and then have that monthly payment that they're looking to get rid of.
The used ATV market is a true buyer beware thing.

The bad ones wont have the snorkle. Those guys buy a new one, seal it up put the kit on it and then ride it till they have an OOPS. they then recover it drain it and refill the fluids and pull the lift snorkle tires and rims off and you think its a good new ride till the gremlins show up. Trust me i know of some guys that do this stuff. See the vids i atttach (i dont know these guys just random utube vids).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LWQWwNyp0nI&feature=related

Just follow the related vids theres tons of this stuff. I have seen this vid before though, he is floating not on the bottom. the tires are like paddles is why the aftermarket ones are so aggressive!

These may be the guys i was looking for mud mafia? Looks familiar?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5iPN3PARQN8&feature=related


Idiot!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArIsMARsblU&feature=related

Here is the big club if i remember right the "soggy bottom boys"!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iIUOGYpYS8&feature=related
(this is where you get the Rino at a good deal!!)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJIf2JkDDsQ&feature=related
 
Agreed there are scum out there that modify/abuse and then patch up and sell these trashed quads.
That's why I said buyer beware.
That's why said some of the ones with just torn seats/faded plastic look worn out but they were probably just left outside and original worn tires are an indication of pavement use - miles and maybe lower hours.
Then again these same machines - my coworker owns a TRX300(I think it was a predecessor of Rancher) but 4x4 model sits outside and has never had the oil changed in it :bug:
Thing still runs like a top though.
 
BASOD said:
Agreed there are scum out there that modify/abuse and then patch up and sell these trashed quads.
That's why I said buyer beware.
That's why said some of the ones with just torn seats/faded plastic look worn out but they were probably just left outside and original worn tires are an indication of pavement use - miles and maybe lower hours.
Then again these same machines - my coworker owns a TRX300(I think it was a predecessor of Rancher) but 4x4 model sits outside and has never had the oil changed in it :bug:
Thing still runs like a top though.

Yea, my uncles 98 trx 300 looks beat to heck. Its black plastic fender flares have cracked off and busted off, green inner fendrs is pretty much all thats left. It has a faded camo seatcover. Runs like a sewing machine though.

My 89 trx300 looks 10 yrs newer and is 9 yrs older. Difference is mine looks to be shed and or garage kept its whole or most of its life my uncles best it has had is under a deck. Mine probly has more miles on it but i got it from a buddy who just used it to ride to the stand deer hunting. I paid $500 as it needed a battery and a carb rebuild. Runs like a sewing machine now. I can see silicons on the head so at one point for some reason it has been off?

Mine wont blow blue smoke when you rev it up, my uncles does?
 
I'm guessing the smoke is a result of sitting alot valve seals drying out or dry when it is started occasionally.
A valve lash adjustment may correct the smoke when reving it though. Could explain the RTV, maybe the head was off it and adjusted shadetree style with no new gasket
 
BASOD said:
I'm guessing the smoke is a result of sitting alot valve seals drying out or dry when it is started occasionally.
A valve lash adjustment may correct the smoke when reving it though. Could explain the RTV, maybe the head was off it and adjusted shadetree style with no new gasket

But there is no need to take the head off, the valves are under a cover on the exhaust side right above the pipe and on the intake side just about the intake. No need to pull the head?
 
i would recommend honda i have a 09 foreman plenty of power and the straight axle will pull more. but... i would recommend getting fuel injection mines carburated and hard starting in winter. as for liquid cooled i would stay away if you go through mud and it will plug up the radiator and overheat. mine is air cooled never had a problem and rode all day. i think with honda you will get the most years out of it for your hard earned money. STAY AWAY FROM POLARIS!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
jrendfrey said:
i would recommend honda i have a 09 foreman plenty of power and the straight axle will pull more. but... i would recommend getting fuel injection mines carburated and hard starting in winter. as for liquid cooled i would stay away if you go through mud and it will plug up the radiator and overheat. mine is air cooled never had a problem and rode all day. i think with honda you will get the most years out of it for your hard earned money. STAY AWAY FROM POLARIS!!!!!!!!!!!!

2012 Foremans are now liquid cooled . . . for better or for worse.
 
I first bought a Yamaha 350, great machine, and plowed well. Then I bought an Arctic Cat 650, was much nicer but not the workhorse I needed. So then I got a Polaris Ranger, this is by far my favorite machine. First off it has a bench seat, so there is room for me, mom, and the dog. I hall rocks, firwood etc. in the box. The ride is smooth and it's fast. I pull a trailer with it, move the boat around, drag the log splitter around. For comfort and work it's a great utv.
 
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