lifespan of blower motors?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Have you confirmed that the blower motor Chinese?
 
So I'll get in on this one too. My fan is German made, supposed high quality. I never could get it to be quiet. This year I removed it and contacted the manufacturer, gave the part and model numbers to the representative. I was surprised they would talk to an end user. My fan was very dusty but that was only part of it. I tried the shims and it did nothing. The representative said to look closely at how it was making contact to the stove. After mounting the fan 3 times I finally saw the problem, a very tiny ball of weld splatter on the stove was keeping the fan from making complete contact. I knocked that off and reinstalled the fan, now it is quiet. The company representative said she cleans the fan on their pellet stove twice a season.
 
i will post info when i pick up the fan today after work.
including the grainger # and if it fits in my stove or not and how it works out.
too bad its warm out now, i want to try out the higher CFM and see how much of a difference it makes.

the enviro venice has a rheostat to control fan RPM, so that will help if it is too loud. i figure i can leave it cranked wide open when im not home to be bothered by the noise if it is really that much louder...
 
A thing about the fans being low CFM besides the noise is the EPA testing. If the stove has a standard fan or one is an option the testing has to be done with the blower on. Too much air would cool the firebox too much and blow the test (pun intended) for them and not get certified.

8.12.5 Auxiliary Wood Heater Equipment Operation.
Heat exchange blowers sold with the wood heater shall be
operated during the test run following the manufacturer's
written instructions. If no manufacturer's written
instructions are available, operate the heat exchange blower
in the "high" position. (Automatically operated blowers
shall be operated as designed.)
 
BrotherBart said:
A thing about the fans being low CFM besides the noise is the EPA testing. If the stove has a standard fan or one is an option the testing has to be done with the blower on. Too much air would cool the firebox too much and blow the test (pun intended) for them and not get certified.

8.12.5 Auxiliary Wood Heater Equipment Operation.
Heat exchange blowers sold with the wood heater shall be
operated during the test run following the manufacturer's
written instructions. If no manufacturer's written
instructions are available, operate the heat exchange blower
in the "high" position. (Automatically operated blowers
shall be operated as designed.)


i figured this may be why a lower CFM unit are used.
i plan on only using it on wide open mode when the stove is rip roaring, with enough heat to justify the added airflow.
all other times i will set the rheostat to a level that is reasonable.
what drawbacks are there with too much cooling on the stove? never achieving desired temps, leading to inefficient burns?
so i would be shooting myself in the foot with too much airflow?
 
par0thead151 said:
what drawbacks are there with too much cooling on the stove? never achieving desired temps, leading to inefficient burns?
so i would be shooting myself in the foot with too much airflow?

Yep. Just wait till the stove is hot and cruising to turn on the blower.
 
I think this is brought up every year. I always go by the fact that oiling will attract dust, so I haven't in three years. I clean them out once a year
Motors don't work on faith alone. There should be almost no possibly of dust entering the sleeve or ball bearing. You are oiling a felt, not the bearing directly.
 
well after 2 hours i got it mounted and installed last night.
man that sucker can move the air!
its a bit louder on the highest setting, but worth it IMO. not nearly as bad as the old motor that caused rattling due to worn bushings.

i mounted it to the housing that is the left side of the shroud. all it took was drill bits and a hand drill... no rattles even on the highest speed, and it fits perfectly. a little bigger and it may not have fit.
i did have to move the blower rheostat down as the blower is a bit longer than the factory one. now i adjust the blower speed on the bottom instead of the bottom side.

all in all, im quite pleased and saved 375$(450$ for factory fan - 70$ for the dayton one) off of what i would have paid for the fan.
 
I tore my blower apart and was surprised to find ball bearings. I was even more surprised to find one of the bearings in bad shape. It did not move freely like the other bearing on the opposite side. I found a couple of Japanese made bearings at my local bearing supply shop for $4.50. Now that blower runs better than when it was new.

I have a feeling in a couple years I will be looking to replace it though. The blower wheels are plastic and they are not balanced so I think that is what caused the old bearing to fail so fast. I found a blower from Grainger that is nearly double the CFM, ball bearing, and it has steel wheels that will fit when this one kills it's bearings again.

If anybody else has an Osburn 2400i and needs blower bearings they are R4AZZ made by Nachi.
 
I think this is brought up every year. I always go by the fact that oiling will attract dust, so I haven't in three years. I clean them out once a year

That's a silly excuse for not lubricating a motor. A proper oiling will not attract dust. Leave oil dribbling over the motor, sure it will. So wipe the area clean and it won't attract any dust.
Regardless, this will not affect motor longevity. The oil ports feed a felt pad or disk. No dust gets into the bearings via this port.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.