Englander NC 30 questions

Hardrockmaple · Feb 25, 2012

I know these stoves have been discussed to death here but, as in every installation, I have some subjects I've yet to see discussed.

My purpose in buying this stove: heat an unfinished, wide open, well insulated (except for concrete floor) 1000 sg.ft. basement and the second floor to a certain degree.

My install: (and here are the important concerns for me). The manual states chimney should not exceed 25 ft. My internal 8x11 inch clay lined chimney is 40 ft. Anyone burning this stove with a tall chimney? If so, what were/are your issues?

My thoughts on this oversized (for me) stove. To burn as low as possible through the coldest months.

I've been burning an older Newmac stove (smoke dragon) with thermostat in the basement for many years now and this is what I'm seriously considering replacing. I have been looking closely at the Drolets as they are built here in Canada and thus are much more popular than the Englanders but just this morning I stumbled upon a deal on a NC 30 and knowing how popular they are with the folks here I thought it prudent to ask the following.

So, any issues with your NC 30 and a tall chimney? I'm utilizing a damper now when burning the Newmac.

BrowningBAR · Feb 25, 2012

Hardrockmaple said:
I know these stoves have been discussed to death here but, as in every installation, I have some subjects I've yet to see discussed.

My purpose in buying this stove: heat an unfinished, wide open, well insulated (except for concrete floor) 1000 sg.ft. basement and the second floor to a certain degree.

My install: (and here are the important concerns for me). 1. The manual states chimney should not exceed 25 ft. My internal 8x11 inch clay lined chimney is 40 ft. Anyone burning this stove with a tall chimney? If so, what were/are your issues?

My thoughts on this oversized (for me) stove. 2. To burn as low as possible through the coldest months.

I've been burning an older Newmac stove (smoke dragon) with thermostat in the basement for many years now and this is what I'm seriously considering replacing. I have been looking closely at the Drolets as they are built here in Canada and thus are much more popular than the Englanders but just this morning I stumbled upon a deal on a NC 30 and knowing how popular they are with the folks here I thought it prudent to ask the following.

So, any issues with your NC 30 and a tall chimney? I'm utilizing a damper now when burning the Newmac.

1. Piper damper would be my first recommendation to help you control the draft. I know a few here have chimneys/liners that exceed 25' and the stove functions properly for them.

2. Burning 'low' in a non-cat stove will require smaller fires.

wkpoor · Feb 25, 2012

I've never owned an NC30 but I heat fro a 1000sqft basement and had a US Magnolia which is similar in size and function to the Englander. Your chimney is higher than mine unless you are quoting from stove top and then we are the same. I had trouble with runaway temps because the primary air cannot be shut all the way down and I suspect the 30 is the same so you will need a damper for sure. As for oversized........well unless there is something missing here ain't no way. I ran the piss off my Mag to the point of damaging the stove trying to stay warm. Basements are heat sinks and will absorb all the heat you put in them.

Wood Duck · Feb 25, 2012

An 8 x 11 inch flue is a lot larger than the 6 inch round flue for which the stove is designed. I am not sure how this might affect the performance but it is a big difference.

What do you mean that you plan to burn it low all winter? If the stove is too large why not buy a smaller stove and burn it hot?

Hardrockmaple · Feb 25, 2012

Wood Duck said:
An 8 x 11 inch flue is a lot larger than the 6 inch round flue for which the stove is designed. I am not sure how this might affect the performance but it is a big difference.

What do you mean that you plan to burn it low all winter? If the stove is too large why not buy a smaller stove and burn it hot?

I don't want to be constantly running up and down the stairs feeding the stove. My intent, after reading here, is to get a bed of coals built up and maintain that with a few splits every 3-4 hrs. As too oversized chimney, I ran the small DW through the same sized chimney for 20 years and never had a problem, I'm assuming with the strong suction of 40 ft. (and never having a problem with the Newmac) that all will be fine. I'm a little concerned with overfiring and was wondering about any 30 NC owners with tall chimneys and their experiences.

Hardrockmaple · Feb 25, 2012

wkpoor said:
I've never owned an NC30 but I heat fro a 1000sqft basement and had a US Magnolia which is similar in size and function to the Englander. Your chimney is higher than mine unless you are quoting from stove top and then we are the same. I had trouble with runaway temps because the primary air cannot be shut all the way down and I suspect the 30 is the same so you will need a damper for sure. As for oversized........well unless there is something missing here ain't no way. I ran the piss off my Mag to the point of damaging the stove trying to stay warm. Basements are heat sinks and will absorb all the heat you put in them.

The basement stove is only burned during those coldest days (overkill perhaps), my DW 2460 on the main level is to remain as my primary heat source. The Newmac has proven to be more than adequate in this role since the basement was insulated 3 years ago, it is now 25 years old and due for replacement. I only want to heat the basement and with the deal available on the NC 30 I thought I'd ask a few questions before making the leap.

Maple man · Mar 16, 2012

I have an englander nc30 and it is a very good stove it will pump out the heat and last 8-10 hours in my opinion it is a very good stove

GetWoodGone · Mar 17, 2012

I put in the NC30 in a 900 sq. ft. basement with 30' chimney and 6" duravent doublewall this winter. I also was concerned about chimney in excess of 25'. Live on the lake with about 1 and 1/2 mile straight exposure to the north wind without a single strand of barbwire to slow it down. I wanted to put in a damper as a safety brake, but went with the Combustion Air System outside air kit. A damper is presently not available for this new system. My CSIA certified chimney sweep assured me that there would be no problem with length of chimney or lack of damper control on the flue. He was right. Winds have been sustained at 35-40 and gusting to 45+ mph and no problems with overfire. The draft pulls like a freight train, but is totally controllable.

With lows down to 15 morning temps upstairs are 65-68. If you stoke her full she will run you out of the basement with 80+ temps. Still working on ways to move heat upstairs.

begreen · Mar 17, 2012

Every situation is unique. If I understand your setup correctly the 6" flue 30NC will tied into an oversized chimney. The stove wants an ~28 sq in flue area. 80 sq in is 2.8x oversize. That will slow down the flue gases and will cool them down considerably. The slowing down part could be why the DW worked ok. If it works well my primary concern would be creosote accumulation. Well seasoned wood will help keep it down, but it's going to be hard to maintain over 250F temps at the top of the chimney.

The best advice I can give is to try it. If it needs an inline damper, add one. The only other person with a 40ft chimney currently posting is wkpoor I think. He had a devil of a time with a Magnolia? and switched to a non-EPA stove with a damper.

Seasoned Oak · Mar 17, 2012

My son has a 30 on a tall chimney and it seems to burn cleaner than mine on a short one. He also does not have nor need any kind of damper in the flue system.

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Englander NC 30 questions

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