Adding Family Room Addtion - Wood Stove a Must - Need help with which one

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Gabby12

New Member
Mar 8, 2012
65
Wilm. DE
Hello,
Newbe here.
Have been reading as much as time allows and learned a lot.

In a few weeks I am going to untake putting a 23'X23' (529 s.f) addition on our hosue.
It will be 2X6 wall construction, (good roof as well - waiting for architect drawings), good insulated glass along one entire wall, vaulted ceiling.

The purpose of the stove is to heat this room mainly and if any residual heat goes into the house that's great but I feel in order to get enough heat out of this room and into the main part of the house to really make a differance - the room will have to be too warm to sit and enjoy comfortable - hence need the right size stove.

Not that this matters to this post but I already have 4 cords cut, split, stacked and covered lightly and I haven't even put a shovel in the ground on the project - but at least I will have my wood supply in good order.

I live in Delaware with most winters being around 32 degs. and occasionally getting down to single digets but rarely.

This stove will be placed in the corner of the room with a Faux Rock Finish behind it giving the look of a stone fireplace.

Through your forum I discovered there is a large fire shop in Dover (Byler's - about an hour away) that has been helpful on the phone and I am planning a trip to the shop asap to see first hand my option from he sells.

I like to have as much info and knowlegde I can when looking as I feel the better informed I am the better I can make the right decission.

So I ask all you fire bugs - can you recommend a (or several if need be) manufactures to look at and certain models.

Byler's sells:
Lopi
Jotul
Hearthstone
Enerzones

I understand the charitistics of soapstone but unless I can be perswaided, am leaning towards the more tradtional Cast or Steel (I know Steel is certainally not traditional).

If more info is needed to help with input please let me know..

I thank all for any help you can provide.
 
Random thoughts . . .

Welcome to the forum.

Kudos on already having a bunch of wood cut, split and stacked . . . hopefully this may help prevent you from being among the "My woodstove doesn't work well" posters this coming Fall. Seriously . . . nice job.

I think you have a few options . . . if you only want to heat the addition you can go with a small stove . . . or (depending on the rest of the home's layout and spacing) you may wish to get a bigger stove and heat all or most of the rest of the place. It is entirely possible to heat an entire home and not be driven out by the heat -- the secret is in moving the heated air out of the room with the stove. I mean to say the room with the stove will always be warmer than the other rooms, but depending on how you move the heat and how you control the heat you can be quite comfortable and not have to resort to sitting around half naked all winter long.

P.S. Jotul makes a great stove . . . not sure about "Yotal" . . . must be one of those Chinese knock offs. ;) :)
 
Budget?
I'd reconsider the soapstone and look at Woodstock's Keystone and Palladian. A small cat stove would be a good fit for a relatively small space in a relatively mild climate.
 
Englander VL-17.

Cheap and very cool looking stove that puts out good heat. Small firebox and short burn times though. If your truly looking for a one room heater, then this is your best value. Did I mention that it looks cool?
 
The VL 17 is a good suggestion. In the dealer's lines the Lopi Answer or Jotul Castine should work well. If you wanted to go larger I would look at a convective stove like the PE Alderlea T4 or T5. You can greatly assist distributing the heat by blowing cool air, low, into the stove room from the rest of the house. It will help moderate room temps and the displaced cooler air will be replaced by the warmer stove air.
 
I would go as big as your buget allows and if you want to heat more of the main house you can, or you can just make smaller fires if you want to confine most of the heat to the addition.The larger stoves BG recommended are good choices.
 
Welcome to the forum Gabby12.

Some good stove choices there. I would highly suggest you add Woodstock to the list.

As for the room getting to warm, blowing the cooler air from the other parts of the house will not only help to cool the room but will also move a lot of that warm air into the rest of the house. All you need is a small desktop fan running on low speed blowing into the stove room. In addition, the heat from the soapstone stoves is a "softer heat" vs from cast and steel stoves. I thought this was bunk at first but we found out there really is something to it.
 
As you can see from my recent post 'Look what I found in my driveway', I've discovered wood fired cook stoves that not only give you heat but also versatility and a conversation piece to boot! Since you are starting from scratch, why not design in a little something different? http://newwoodstoves.net/index.php/product/magnum
 
We just finished our addition a few months ago. A LOT of planning went into it and I wanted to heat the entire house with the stove. The thing I would change about my stove right now is where it is situated. I can't get great draft for my stove without looking absolutely ridiculous on the exterior of the house. I would have placed it closer to the original part of the house to make it taller, using the height of the house to extend the chimney. Make sure it is as straight as possible!!! You will see what I mean if you look at my posts on this thread...

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/92471/

I also put through wall fans in my new room to blow the heat around upstairs. I am not sure if you will be able to do this, but I have been able to heat my entire house all season (evenly) without using a single drop of oil. The fans are also in the pictures, are quiet and do a great job. The stove I own, a VC defiant, is WAY over-sized for just the 20x24' room we put on. But with the fans, the room is usually within a degree of the upstairs. I can get the room up to 85F, and have by accident, but you will want to open those purdy insulated glass widows if you do. Last night I ran the stove just to get the temp in the house up a bit as it was warm yesterday. I left the fans off upstairs and what a difference it made. Downstairs was a balmy 76F while upstairs was at 70F.

One other thing you may consider is ceiling fans. Moving the heated air around is critical if you want to get the most out of your stove. If you are in the building phase, this is when it needs to get done, rather than when everything is sealed up and it is an afterthought.

The through wall fans I used are Panasonic whisperwall fans. They need some modification for interior application, but they are worth it.

One more suggestion for you. We were given the option for a basement under our new room. It was $7k more for the option and I said yes. Worth every penny. I essentially doubled the size of the room for only $7k.

And, last but not least. Make sure you are home A LOT during the construction. I work an odd schedule which allowed me to be home while they were working. I caught a lot of mistakes that the the guys were making. One such mistake is that the architect told the guys to put the insulation for the basement on the inside. If I wasn't home, that is exactly where it would have gone, even though I told him to put it on the outside of the foundation. I also gave them a couple cold beers on Fridays. Was a nice touch.

Seriously, the last thing. If you do decide to go big on the stove and get the basement, figure a way to send some heat downstairs, sort of a dump zone instead of opening windows. I usually have excess heat and wish I had set a fan up to blow the air around to the basement. It gets chilly down there.
 
The OP said he only wants to heat the new addition and has no intention of heating the rest of the house.
 
"The purpose of the stove is to heat this room mainly and if any residual heat goes into the house that's great"

With a little planning, a lot of residual heat can go into the house.
 
That's a pretty big space. I wouldn't worry about overheating the room. I've got a 3cf insert and can modulate the heat quite effectively just by changing the fan speed. If you're not planning on 24/7 burning then my opinion is the size of the stove is less important, you can always make smaller fires.

What's your budget for stove + install? I like the look of cast iron but would prefer a welded firebox. I like the look of the soapstone stoves but unless you're talking about massive weight (masonry furnace) they really don't hold that much more heat. You could add a lot more thermal mass from another layer of drywall. I also will probably go with a cat stove next time around because an extra 10% eficiency would more than pay for itself in the wood I'd save. I've got a lot of oak that just doesn't dry out, so I tend to smolder more than wanted. But, then again I haven't checked the price of replacement lately.

You might want to bring pictures with you to the stove shop to give them an idea of the location so you can come up with a plan together.
 
I have been following everyones comments and appreiciate them.

I had a chance to go to Bylers today in Dover DE and talked for awhile with Matt from the shop.
Great guy and a lot of help - highly recommend visting the shop if interested in a stove - plus they have a neat market attached.

We looked at all that he sold and I keep going back to Jotul.
Glad I went to store to see first hand what a few models look like.

Went to shop initially thinking the 3CB would be the model due to it being sized the best (for the room and my style liking) but after seeing the fire box I rezlize that pretty much all the wood I have (4 cords) is going to be a little tight in fire box.
Sure this can be corrected but going forward when I find wood that has been cut it is going to be too long as well.
So for convience the large fire box Castine had me looking....

Next to it was the 400 Castine.
I like the look and the fire box and stove size.
Might be slightly too big for room which concerns me but I plan to always have my wood drying for at least 10 months before burning and plan to clean chimeney each year to monitor and control any build up.
So I am thinking I can run it relativly low/med and at times heat it up to burn off any build up.

Plus I do plan to try and utilize any spill over heat into the house and reading a few ideas here has now got me thinking how to do this - so I plan to work something out to get heat into house - but don't want to heat new room up to be un-comfortable while sitting in it.
So having a larger stove might be able to be utilized - or am I just justifying????

Reading some reviews on the 400 Castline there is't a lot of great ones.
There is talk of it not keeping the glass too clean - the reason I read was due to it being a multi fuel stove thus providing freash air to bottom and air wash for window.
By doing this the air is being shared between bottom and glass thus not putting as much air across the glass as other models.
There was mention that this can be altered by blocking some of the bottom wash air but not recommendid to those that don't know what they are doing...

We did look at some soap stone stoves but it's just not giving me the warm fuzzies on design - I understand the concept but just not sold yet.

They do sell Hearthstone and others but I kept comign back to Jotul.

Some thoughts please....
 
I've had both stoves and the Castine is definitely a nice step up. I think you would be fine with it. It will run well with smaller hot fires. You don't need to load it up. But don't try to choke it down to smoldering. Instead burn 2-3 split fires at a moderate 450F stove top and let them go out if the place is warmed up. Or just put one or two smaller splits on the fire to keep it going.
 
You did not specify if cathedral ceiling or not, but with an entire wall of glass, no matter how good those windows are, is going to be a very cold wall along that glass. If there is in fact a cathedral ceiling, I highly suggest installing a good ceiling fan in the room, and figure a bit larger a stove. Tough to recommend without knowing the ceilings height, and how many openings lead into the room.
 
As far as room info, still working out the logistics with the architect but for the most part typical 8' wall height, vaulted ceiling that I am seeing 5' high on current drawings.

There will be a double (aprox. 5') opening going from main house into new room.
There will either be a set a french doors or leave opening open all the time.
A 30" pass through window between ktichen and new room that will probably stay open.

One wall as many windows as I can get, one wall two 30" windows and the third wall only a single door leading outside.

Summary:
Wall 1 - all windows
Wall 2 - 1 outside door
Wall 3 - 5' opening into house and a 30" window into house
Wall 4 - 2 30" windows
8' Walls
5' vaulted ceiling (w/ ceiling fan)

I am going to design some sort of heat transfer system into main house but not looking to heat main house solely with stove - just want to take advantage of the heat if I can.
 
The Castine will not drive you out of the room unless you want it to and stoke it like a furnace. Though I still would consider a convective stove here if the hope is to take advantage of the heat in the rest of the house.
 
I am going to design some sort of heat transfer system into main house but not looking to heat main house solely with stove - just want to take advantage of the heat if I can.

Those fans are nice, and quiet. They don't look all that great on the inside wall, but nobody ever even notices them. My addition really lent itself to heating the entire house, so I took full advantage of it.You would be surprised how much even one fan will distribute heat.

There will either be a set a french doors or leave opening open all the time

Same here, but we went with pocket doors. They only get closed if the kids are being too loud, and are out of the way when open.
 
OH! NO! Not another type (Convective) to look at....:)

One thing with reseach - you seek and you will find.
I knew it wasn't going to be as easy as just going to the Fire Shop and buying a stove and that is why I came to this forum.

It seems Convective should be looked at as well.

Just like with anything, I am sure all these mentioned will work it's just that each one might have a slight edge in a certain area.

Not to say I am not going to look further at models mentioned but I have a question about the Jotul Castine 400 I looked at this past weekend.
After looking at serveral reviews the stove doesn't get a lot of good reviews - mainly in the glass air wash system.

Do others that have this stove find this to be true and what other complaints or good things has those that have one have to say?
 
Because this is a radiant stove some folks run it at a low idle. That's going to blacken the glass (and soot up the chimney). One hot fire will clear it up. The air wash is fine on the stove as long as it's run hot enough to keep the glass clean. Maintain at least a 450F stovetop and it should work well.
 
We situated our stove so it "convects" the heat down the hall to the rest of the house. You can sit in front of it and feel the cold air sucking into the room and the heat going out. We're heating @ 700 sq feet with the Republic. If you're really drawn to the Jotul, then go for it-you're going to have to look at it all the time you're in the room. The Republic is a little big for our space but we can just burn smaller (but still hot) fires-and it's the stove I wanted looks wise (hadn't see Woodstock previously, but the clearances for the Republic beat them hands down). And it's good for longer burns vs the smaller 1250.
 
I think you should look for a stove with long burn times, not just for this situation but for any situation. Wood stoves (or any heater) won't heat up a room instantly - it takes a few hours for cool or cold furniture, floors, etc. to heat up. Plus it takes time fo the wood stove to heat up before the stove even starts to heat the room. This all means that you shouldn't plan on lighting a fire in the room at 6:30 after dinner and sit down for a warm evening in the room. It will be more like start a fire at 5:00pm and by 7:00 the room is cozy. When it is cold you'll want a long-burning fire. In general larger stoves mean a longer burn. I wouldn't worry too much about the heat output because I think most stoves will be enough.
 
Have you figured out exactly what you'll be needing for a flue?
I was going to originaly put my stove in the corner of our 24' x 14' stove room, but after I put some thought into what I'd need for a flue I changed my mind and put the stove against an inside wall closer to the center of the room. The reason being, in the corner of the room the flue would have exited the roof at a low level and I would have had to add a lot more of the expensive insulated flue pipe to get it high enough to conform to code. Also at that height it would have needed support braces and would have been virtualy impossible to inspect or clean from the top. Where the pipe exits the roof now it is close to the peak of the roof and only 5 ft high, and is very easy to clean and inspect. If had put the stove in the corner I would have had about 12ft of free standing pipe sticking out of the roof.
 
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