Stove pipe question

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pfeels

New Member
Jan 9, 2012
22
South Shore Mass
pfeels.com
I read that the stove pipe coming out of the wall has to have a slight slant downward, just wondering if it's true and if so how much of a slant?

Also I'm new at this and I'm always open to the thoughts of people who know more about this than I so any input is always appreciated.

Little history:
Pleasant Hearth Stove 1800 Sq. Ft
Sits on slate tile, kitty-corner. Specs call for rear corners off wall (combustible) 12", I'm off the wall 20" and that's with removing the paneling and sheet-rock and adding one layer of durock.

Under the slate is cement, (basement), Calls for 8" on each side and 16" front, I'm 10" on the sides and 20" on the front (ok, so I have safety issues, lol)

Stove pipe: I'm planning on 36" straight out of the stove, then 90, then horizontal for 12", then 45 and then horizontal again for somewhere between 24" & 36"

Any idea's, help,problems that you see, etc, Thanks
Paul
 

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That is very safe, you have lots of wiggle room. lol

The pipe needs to be pitched at least 1/4" per foot uphill toward the chimney. I would try to eliminate an elbow if possible by pointing the 90º elbow toward the flue thimble at a 45º angle and then connecting to a 45º elbow at the thimble. I'd also move the stove closer to the wall if necessary to achieve this. You want the horiz. run to be as short as possible.
 
Thanks, Paul. Put some text in your sig to let folks know a bit about you, if you like...that's what most members do. And welcome to the forums!
 
Paul, welcome to the Hearth.
Question...is the floor actually concrete with a basement underneath. Just trying to get that straight.
You know we like pics. Thanks for the first one. If you can, when the install is done, put up more.
We'll wait............:)
Soccer family?
 
Stove pipe: I'm planning on 36" straight out of the stove, then 90, then horizontal for 12", then 45 and then horizontal again for somewhere between 24" & 36"

Please correct me if I am wrong,what you have described is still a straight run out the side of your house? I assume you will be putting another 90 to go straight up.

My original install had lots of bends in it and it crushed my draft. 3-90F equivalent. Make sure you have a long pipe going out the roof, or else your stove isn't going to work right. Just remember the thumb rule is -5 feet for a 90 and -3 feet for a 45. The other rule is to not have 3 bends in your pipe.

Here are the pics in another post...

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/i-hate-to-ask-but-i-think-i-have-a-draft-problem.74129/
 
Paul, welcome to the Hearth.
Question...is the floor actually concrete with a basement underneath. Just trying to get that straight.
You know we like pics. Thanks for the first one. If you can, when the install is done, put up more.
We'll wait............:)
Soccer family?

Yep, Soccer family but my kids are older, Meghan 26, works for U Mass, Kyle 24, UAB (Birmingham Alabama) graduate school & Susan 20, Springfield (gonna be the death of me and my wife) ... They all played sports and that is one thing we miss, hanging around with the other families (we don't miss the out of state travel tho, lol) ... Yours?

And yes it is the basement floor (split ranch) ... The flooring around it is not wood, it's the floating, puzzle style linoleum, or whatever they call it ...
 

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Please correct me if I am wrong,what you have described is still a straight run out the side of your house? I assume you will be putting another 90 to go straight up.

Yup, and funny I never considered the outside turn to be another 90 but that's why I posted. My out side run up the side of the house at minimum will be 15 feet. maybe I can eliminate the 45 ...

I asked a building inspector why the outside chimney has to be 3 feet above the roof and 2 feet above the roof in a 10 foot horizontal direction. He explained to me about how the wind comes off the roof etc. So I understand that and I'll make sure it's high enough.


Saw the pics, how did you get it so close to the wall?
 
Yup, and funny I never considered the outside turn to be another 90 but that's why I posted. My out side run up the side of the house at minimum will be 15 feet. maybe I can eliminate the 45 ...

Has this stove been run with this set up before or are you doing a new install?

two-90s= -10Ft, one-45 = -3Ft.

3Ft + 15 Ft = 18Ft -10 -3 = 5Ft of draft.

What does the book say that minimum draft for your stove needs to be? If you can convert the 90s to 45s or get rid of the 45 all together it will help.

I had three bends in my pipe, the stove burned awful. It wasn't until I went straight through the roof that the stove started to work properly. Smoke doesn't like to make turns. You may need to go higher on the pipe outside to get it to work properly, or even go to 8" pipe.

Certainly think it through before you start cutting, straighter is better. I had a moron for an installer, and I learned exactly what not to do from him.
 
I asked a building inspector why the outside chimney has to be 3 feet above the roof and 2 feet above the roof in a 10 foot horizontal direction. He explained to me about how the wind comes off the roof etc. So I understand that and I'll make sure it's high enough.



I believe the inspector was saying the pipe should extend 3' above the ridge or highest part of the roof, by the way. Unless the ridge is quite far away.... In windy areas, this may not be enough. It also makes a difference whether the pipe is on the lee or windward side. Perhaps that's what you meant anyhow....
 
I believe the inspector was saying the pipe should extend 3' above the ridge or highest part of the roof, by the way. Unless the ridge is quite far away.... In windy areas, this may not be enough. It also makes a difference whether the pipe is on the lee or windward side. Perhaps that's what you meant anyhow....

The inspector was right. The top of the chimney needs to be 3 feet above the point at which it exits the roof and 2 feet above any part of the roof which is within a 10-foot horizontal radius.
 
Has this stove been run with this set up before or are you doing a new install?

two-90s= -10Ft, one-45 = -3Ft.

3Ft + 15 Ft = 18Ft -10 -3 = 5Ft of draft.

What does the book say that minimum draft for your stove needs to be? If you can convert the 90s to 45s or get rid of the 45 all together it will help.

This is a new install.

On the formula, do you take the flue and chimney length combined and then subtract the turns? I ask because right now it's more like a 7Ft flue, unless I can move the stove closer to the wall which might be a possibility.

I have yet to locate the information on the draft requirements.
 
More things to consider after reading the last two post, the side of my house that I'm putting the chimney on is the windy side, there's just enough open land there that the breeze always seems to come through there and sometimes it's pretty strong ... Boy this is involved
 
My cabin sits on a ridge and gets lots of wind. The chimney height is per specs in relation to the roof and the draw is truly great! I've never had a problem starting a fire, regardless of outside temp, wind, etc., and never any smoke puffing into the cabin.
 
On the formula, do you take the flue and chimney length combined and then subtract the turns? I ask because right now it's more like a 7Ft flue, unless I can move the stove closer to the wall which might be a possibility.

Yes, you need to check on how much draft is required or you will be sadly disappointed with your stoves performance, lots of smoke and the stove won't stay lit and the like.

Windy days are better for draft. The more wind you have, the better. I am sure there is a point where this is no longer true though.

From what I understand, stoves are supposed to be place on the north side of buildings. Not sure why, maybe prevailing wind, colder, I don't know.

And as an aside, I have the recommended minimum draft and I still don't think my stove is operating the way it truly is supposed to.
 
Am I doing something wrong or does the crimped end of my 36" stove pipe suppose to fit into the top of the wood stove or is there an adapter, it's awful, awful tight ....
 
I'm using double-wall and I just read in some cases you need an adapter ... The mud is getting awful thick :)
 
You are doing this yourself? You may want to seek out professional help. Maybe where you bought it can help you.

Also, if you bought this at home depot, the stove pipe diameters differ from standards. Check for an "HD" somewhere on the pipe I believe it will accompany the serial numbers and usually be at the end.

As an aside, the last stove I bought from home depot was a disaster for me. Englander pellet stove. The thing ate pellets and could barely heat the basement of my house. Hopefully they have changed since then.
 
Bought this from Lowes so not much difference ... I don't know, I'm plugging away and maybe I will have to bring in a pro but I've been involved with construction myself for over 30 years ... We'll see, either way I appreciate the input
 
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