Harbor Freight Trailer build

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BigV

BigV

Member
Oct 1, 2006
139
Akron, OH
I was in the market to find a smaller trailer for use around the yard, specifically to throw wood into while splitting to minimize handling. After looking around at used trailers I decided to build my own. I started with a Harbor Freight trailer kit that was $350.00 and used a 20% off coupon. Final cost $279.99. The trailer has 12” tires, measures 48” X 96” and has a weight capacity of 1720 pounds.
image_11845.jpg

I spent another $112.00 on treated 4X8 ¾” plywood and ¾” deck rails along with misc. carriage bolts and a trailer jack.
Assembly was pretty straight forward and would have gone a little smother if I had looked at the directions….
The end result is a nice trailer that works perfect for it’s intended use and cost less than $380.00.
trailer.jpg
 
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Reactions: Jack Straw, mecreature, smokinj and 1 other person
Looks a lot like mine. I put 16" tall sides made out of 1/2" treated and then a 1x4 a few inches above that for a total of 24" tall sides.

What are you pulling it with?
 
lukem said:
Looks a lot like mine. I put 16" tall sides made out of 1/2" treated and then a 1x4 a few inches above that for a total of 24" tall sides.

What are you pulling it with?
Click to expand...

I have a Kawasaki Brute Force 750 I pull it with.
 
Great job. and an new trailer. cant beat that.



BigV said:
I was in the market to find a smaller trailer for use around the yard, specifically to throw wood into while splitting to minimize handling. After looking around at used trailers I decided to build my own. I started with a Harbor Freight trailer kit that was $350.00 and used a 20% off coupon. Final cost $279.99. The trailer has 12” tires, measures 48” X 96” and has a weight capacity of 1720 pounds.
image_11845.jpg

I spent another $112.00 on treated 4X8 ¾” plywood and ¾” deck rails along with misc. carriage bolts and a trailer jack.
Assembly was pretty straight forward and would have gone a little smother if I had looked at the directions….
The end result is a nice trailer that works perfect for it’s intended use and cost less than $380.00.
trailer.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Snotrocket said:
I was at Tractor Supply yesterday and saw this.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/ground...uty-utility-trailer-1-500-lb-capacity-3599561

It looks very heavy duty in person. All of the sides are removable and the front and back gates fold down.

Would be very nice to tow behind a garden tractor or an ATV.
Click to expand...
I have one very similar. The problem is backing the trailer up. With the 2 front wheels turning in tandem with the toung, it is impossible to back up. I have to disconnect mine and pull it by hand.
 
Flatbedford said:
Nice little wagon, but check out the reviews. Looks like the wheel bearings suck.
Click to expand...

Yeah I saw that before I went to check them out in person. You can buy much higher quality bearings from Mcmaster Carr and be set.

I was going to build one, but after looking at that one I would have $200 into steel and welding wire just to build it not counting an axle.
 
BigV said:
I have one very similar. The problem is backing the trailer up. With the 2 front wheels turning in tandem with the toung, it is impossible to back up. I have to disconnect mine and pull it by hand.
Click to expand...
Backing a wagon is an art I never could master. I can back a trailer anywhere, but am less than worthless when it comes to a wagon.
 
BigV said:
I have one very similar. The problem is backing the trailer up. With the 2 front wheels turning in tandem with the toung, it is impossible to back up. I have to disconnect mine and pull it by hand.
Click to expand...

It's not impossible. You just need re-training! I grew up on a farm and pushed wagons backwards daily! Sometimes, especially if we felt like showing off :rolleyes: , we would line up a loaded tandem pair of wagons for a straight shot, connect 'em and back 'em into the barns for overnight storage!

Many a tractor clutch fell victim to new farmhands learning to push those wagons backwards, <> .
 
How did you attach the verticals?
 
The A-Frame would spoil it for me. The hitch on my Big Bear must be further forward/under the ATV than on yours. With an A-frame like my 5X8 I have virtually no turn room without the frame getting into my rear tires. Had I thought ahead and bought the cheaper, lighter capacity 5X8 with a straight tongue I could use it behind the ATV. I bought the heavier rated A-frame and it's useless with the 4 wheeler.
 
Como said:
How did you attach the verticals?
Click to expand...

The frame has sections to allow for the uprights. The 4X8 sheet of plywood needs to be cut in those areas for the uprights to slide in. Then a carriage bolt attaches them to the frame.
 
Stephen in SoKY said:
The A-Frame would spoil it for me. The hitch on my Big Bear must be further forward/under the ATV than on yours. With an A-frame like my 5X8 I have virtually no turn room without the frame getting into my rear tires. Had I thought ahead and bought the cheaper, lighter capacity 5X8 with a straight tongue I could use it behind the ATV. I bought the heavier rated A-frame and it's useless with the 4 wheeler.
Click to expand...

I put an aftermarket hitch on my Brute Force 750.
It works great for pulling any trailer.
hitch.jpg
 
I had to extend my hitch out a little too in order to deal with the A-frame.
 
Built a Reese style receiver for mine to avoid the tires getting in the way. It accepts the hitch and the skidder I fabbed. I have since mod'd it a bit so that it attaches to 3 points on the frame. I think you would pull the bike in 1/2 before it detached.
 

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