Chainsaw advice needed before I lose a limb (no pun intended)!!

Everbody knows How I feel about home depot But think what you are asking 20 pluss years out of your existing saw is not enough to convince you its not bad? or sears does not make a decent enough homeowner saw to last 21 more years? Btw The Echo brand at home cheapo is not a bad homeowner saw, A cut above most. Lowes I think sells Husky. If you are not comfortable with the saw then do not use it. Stihl is a great saw, Makita just as good. I have 5 Poulan Sears Newest one 1988 all working all cutting even today. All given to me because their owners wanted brand new brand name reconition most required very minor repairs. Bolts can be replaced or re threaded.. You can PM me and send it to Me I will fix it for nothing for you

paulgp602 said:

Hi, I have a 20+ year old Homelite Chainsaw with a 16" bar that was left behind in my house when I moved in. I use it for yard work from time to time because I have trees on my property that need trimming from time to time and sometimes I have to drop one or two (not often though). Problem is this Homelite doesn't have the modern safety features that new saws do and I'm afraid that I am going to hurt myself if I keep using it! The bar was only designed with 1 nut and 1 stud that holds it tight and the chain is always coming loose when I use it. The stud is stripped that the bar goes on and someone doubled up on the washers to allow the bolt to tighten without coming loose. Obviously not safe!

I am looking into a new homeowner quality chainsaw and would like to know about the Husky 137. I am trying to stay away from Sears and Home Depot's models because I want something that is quality and will last for years. Does anyone have good experiences with the lower end Husky line? The Husky 137 can be purchased online from a website for $199 includes free shipping, free spare chain, and 2 free bottles of Husky oil along with a free T-shirt ( I don't really care about the shirt though). I don't have a Husky dealer in my area and online is the only way I can get one. The bar and chain will need to be put on when I receive it. Is this hard to do? Thanks for any advice!

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I have a Husky 137. It saws ok, but I have to set it on a rag because it leaks bar oil. Overall it's an ok saw for small jobs or occasional use.

Local Stihl dealers advertise the MS170 for $169. I bought a Stihl about 5 years ago to replace a blown up Poulan, and the thing has cleared many acres, and bucked many cords without a failure.

For the money, its hard to beat that small Stihl saw, and the support of the Stihl dealer.

Retire the Homelite. Going to the doc to get stiches costs more than $170.

Paul:
Elk's advise regarding - if you are not comfortable with the saw - do not use it was absolutely right on the mark. That is where most accidents occur. If you want to keep and use the saw, then probably the best thing to do is to make sure the chain is sharp and properly tensioned, and it will probably be pretty safe to use. A dull, loose, or overly tightened chain is going to tire you out while cutting, and that's when accidents usually occur.

To answer your other question about the assembly of the bar and chain.... it's real simple - usually 2 bolts on the side cover, put the bar on the bolts and tensioner, put the cover back on, adjust tension, and tighten the bolts.

I have a Stihl 036, which is pushing 20 years old, and not even sure if that model is made anymore. I think that was one of their "mid-grade" saws at the time, and still running and cutting like a champ. Also have a Husky 61 - maybe 12 or so years old, and a little bit higher end - compared to the older Stihl, but actually prefer the Stihl most times.

Again... if the Homelite makes you nervous.... don't use it. The saw you need really depends on the ultimate use, and your comfort level. If it's going to be for occaisional use, I think the 137 would work just fine. If you are looking to start cutting a lot of wood for heat or clearing you may want a little bit bigger.

Regarding the online buying... I know it's usually cheaper, but I, personally would lean away from that somewhat. I don't know whether or not the warranty would still apply - maybe yes, maybe no. You would probably be better off getting it from a dealer - even if it is one of the big box stores.

I got the Stihl MS250 this year and can't say anthing bad about it. You can lay it on its side idling and it won't leak or stop. It is very light and easy on the vibrations. It is easy to adjust the chain without tools.

I have 20+ years experience with Stihl and IMO there is no better saw in the world for the money. For $200 you can get a very nice saw and for $300 a great one. Based on the use you've described it will last you the rest of your life. And ten years down the road it will still start on the first or second pull.

I used a $100 Homelite for years, but this past winter upgraded to a Stihl 210C. At the small end, but a world of difference.

I also bought an old used Echo limb saw with a tiny blade - 12" or less. But that little saw rocks. Stihl is obviously the gold standard, but I'd give Echo a look as well if you're not necessarily looking for it as a professonal item.

Steve

Stihl makes an awesome saw. I have two (a smaller one and a monster for those big trees) and both work great. I also have a small Sears saw that was given to me and does a pretty good job - I was surprised - granted, it hasn't gotten a whole lot of use yet, so I couldn't testify to longevity.

If you are looking for quality I would stick to Stihl.

if you got the extra money the ms250 looks like the saw for you that way if you ever wish you had the extra power it's there id likie to buy that saw.

I replaced an old Sears Craftsman (Poulan) with a Stihl 250 and never looked back. I was going to keep the old saw as a back up but the Stihl is so much better (and safer) I ended up selling it cheap. The 250 has a tool-less chain tensioner that makes tensioning a little easier to maintain. A chain needs to be tensioned twice - once before start up (you did loosen it after last use didn't you?) and again after it's warmed up. People often skip the second and end up with a jumped chain.

Paul, I don't know where in CT you are, but Bozrah Hardware in Bozrah ( very close to Norwich) is an authorized Stihl Dealer. they have the best selection of Stihl products in S.E. Ct and have a fully equiped service center. Plus they are very nice people. If I had been a member of this forum before I bought my Husky I would have bought from them instead.

I have the MS 180 C_BE and I wish I had gone 1 step up...
Having said that it is still a very good saw.
The recoil start system is very cool.

A little story about my saw.

I was in Charleston SC in '89 during hurricane Hugo. Had many trees on my house after the storm and no saw. Drove 150 miles and found an ACE hardware open and bought one of the last saws he had hangin' from the ceiling. I had never seen or heard of the brand but was in desperate need for anything that would cut. It was a Jonsered 455. WWW.JONSERED.COM

WOW!!, what a saw. I've used many different ones over the years and I can tell you it was the best saw I ever used. It could set up for a year and I gaurantee the thing would start within 3 pulls. Every time. It was sweet, balanced and the vibration was very minimal. Someone broke into my shed a few years back and stole it and I haven't replaced it yet but now that I'm installing my first wood heater I WILL buy a Jonsered. Man, I sure miss that saw. After it was stolen, I searched the local pawn shops for it because the brand is so uncommon in this area and it would be easy to spot.

If I ever catch the thief, he'll loose a limb, uh-huh.

Popular mechanics did a test of 6 popular saws about 2 years ago. You can still find the test on their web site.stihl and husky were at the top. johnesred, echo, homelite, a poulan after that. My green 14 inch poulan has done me quite well. I'm upgrading for more power and faster cutting. I just don't have as much time as I used to and if I can get the cutting done in 1 day instead of 2 or half a day instead of all day then I'm going for that.

David

Consumer reports also rated home crapo paint the best. I guess they must have polled homeowners.
as they never asked any pros. Little dishartning to roll out a room and have the fresh paint you just rooled cake and pull off on the brush cutting in the edges. Last time I will use that crap. Point being that rating was 2 years ago Stihl and huskys are top saws but there are others that may be better or in consideration Makita/ Dolmar or Shindawa. I have a lot of Makita tools here I use and push them to abuse every day. Yould I buy and spend more to purchase another Makita tool you bet.

To me, the Makita coumpound LS12/12 slide miter saw is superior to the Dewalt. I have them both here to compare. Not that the Dewalt is bad,a great saw as well. The edge goes to Makita. Makita circular saws I have 5 all still running. There are better circular saws Bosch but for the $$$ the Makita gets the job done everyday. Makita hammer drills, angle drill, belt sandess thickess sander, router, drywall shooter, saws all Makita working hard

I have an opportuinty to buy a Stihl 290 from my local tool rental shop for $200.00.

It has been rented out this summer so it has a lot of sawing in but the item woulde be treated as a new saw as my date of purchase for warentee coverage.

I would perfer a 270 or a 310 but this is whats available.

Good deal?

You specifically asked about the Husky 137. I have a 136 which I presume is the predecessor to the 137. I've had NO problems with my saw. I did replace the chain with a Stihl chain and it cuts a lot better.

This saw has probably cut 20 - 22 cords of wood in it's life, and still runs like it's new.

For what it's worth, had I known I was going to be heating my house with wood I would have gone for a bigger saw...maybe not bigger bar so much as more power.

The chain will stop from time to time and I need to pick the saw up and get he chain going again. I believe a more powerful saw would just cut through.

On the otherhand, my saw is probably a bit safer than a pro or semi-pro saw.

I'd recommend getting the 137, but get it from a dealer.

The Stihl 180 is at best is a limbing chainsaw as are the MS170 and Ms210. The ms250 would be a good basic (45. cc ) chainsaw to have. For size range the Husqvarna 345 ( 45.cc) 350 ( 52. cc) & 353 ( 53. cc ) are also in that range. The MS 250 , Husqvarna 345 , 350 all have plastic bodys. The Husqvarna 353 has a metal body. Dont forget your P.P.E.

I have been using the Stihl 025 - which is the pre MS-250, for about 5 years.

Its a consumer saw, but I have really used the hell out of this thing. Woodlot clearing, firewood cutting, etc.

I am really itching to upgrade, but to be honest, I really don't need too. It has never failed to start, and has enough power for the way I use it.

With an 18" bar, it does every I ask and more. The most important thing I believe, is to learn how to file the chain, and do it after EVERY tank of fuel.

Well, I have to say that my Husky 136 is almost vibration free. I use to use my fathers homelite, and you really couldn't use that saw for more than 1/2 hour with out your hands buzzing. My Husky has a really good feel to it. I do wish it had more power, but for what I paid for it, I can't complain.

I'm sure a 345 would do a better job.

My saw is a Poulan Woodsman w/ a 16" bar. I purchased it cheap as a recon from Harbor Freight, and have probably cut 10 or 15 cords with it.

Generally it has given good service, and I find it cuts well on light stuff, but it also tends to bog down if working on anything more than 6-8" around. I have to keep picking it up from the cut, let it wind up to speed, then put it back down again.

I just encountered a problem though which may be relevant to anyone looking at that line of saws. I had worn out the first bar (I may not have been using enough oil, and I wasn't greasing the roller nose, the tip of the bar litterally fell apart!) and was putting a new bar and chain on it. The saw seemed like it was bogging a bit, and I also have read in several manuals that one should replace the sprocket when replacing the bar and chain. I took the saw to my local small engine guy, who has always done well by me, to have him replace the clutch and sprocket. He said the clutch was pretty bad, but that the sprocket was marginally OK.

I figured for $12.50 we might as well change the sprocket anyways, so he ordered in the parts. We had TWO brand new Poulan official part sprockets that would throw the chain within a minute, before even touching a log. My original sprocket ran fine. He tried getting a third party sprocket, but found that it wouldn't release properly - apparently the sprocket body was to thick and it was binding between the inner clutch body and the engine.

The shop was getting some building repairs done, and it happenned that the carpenter working on the place commented that he had the same saw, and he found it cut well but had a tendency to throw the chain.

Thus the small Poulans (and maybe the other badges of the same saw) may have problems with their sprocket setups that make them prone to chain shedding...

As a general note, my small engine guy says that the small consumer grade saws like this Poulan are almost not worth repairing. He argues that a new bar and two chains is around $50-60, and to change the clutch and sprocket is about the same for parts and labor. With the new consumer grade saws costing under $150 at Home Despot, it's only a few bucks more to just buy a new saw and throw the old one away... His logic makes some sense, and he certainly isn't trying to make money that way - if anything it would cost him since he looses the repair $ and is sending you to the big box for the saw.

Gooserider