New Husky 22 ton splitter won't run:(

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ruserious2008

Member
Jan 24, 2011
160
NH
Well Tractor Supply had this sucker on sale for $999 with a $100 gift card back and 12 months no financing so I sprung for it.
Got it home, read the manual (yes I did!) check the fluids and pulled the cord. Nothing. Pulled and pulled, nothing but an occasional puff of smoke.
Took off the air filter and gas came running out- figured it flooded.
Poking around it does not appear the throttle mechanism is working correct as when I move the throttle from stop to slow to fast the piece with the spring on it doesn't move what its attached to.
A friend took a look at it while I was inside online and he got it running. He said he moved that part around that should move with the throttle and it started.
Split a few pieces of wood and then the engine started to skip. It was about dark so I gave it up for the night.
Got back to it this afternoon and it won't start at all. I was about to try some starter fluid when I thought "screw this its brand new I'm taking it back in the AM." Shouldn't have to fight with something brand new right?
Its a Briggs and Stratton 190CC engine. Try as I might I can't find a manual for it. Entered the model number on the Briggs site and it comes up nada.
So anyone have any "oh you dumb ass" ideas before I drag this thing back in the AM?:) Looked and do not see any fuel shut off valve and since it did run don't think that would b e the problem anyway. I did pull the spark plug and it was a bit dirty so I'm almost wondering if this unit was returned my someone else before?
Anyway thanks if you have any tips but hopefully I'll just get another one and it will work fine and dandy:)
 
Agree, don't mess with it...just return it. Mine has worked fine from day#1 so hopefully your replacement will too!
 
Best to return it & start out with one with a good working engine.
That's what the warrantee is for.
I got a "re-furb" & saved $200 , been working great. Speeco with a Honda on it.
 
My first one ran good, for the most part. Once in a while it would about puke out and I would pump the primer until it smoothed out again. I had it for about a month. I asked the manager at TSC about it, and he had me bring it back and I got another brand new one.

Through a couple of calls to speeco, I found out that engine is made for them, with a shorter shaft (2.75", I think) and a weighted flywheel. It doesn't show up on the BS search.
 
Many engines are OEM application specific, especially generators, pressure washers, some blowers/vacs etc. Very important to have that Model, Type, and Code # before ordering parts or especially replacement engines and short blocks.

Stub crank is popular on pressure washers too.
 
I was thinking of getting this one myself since its on sale so I read the reviews, 95 out 101 loved it, the other 6 seemed to have the same problem as you, bring it back and get a good one.
 
I won't say I love it. I just got done replacing the blower housing, dipstick tube, muffler bolts, and lovejoy spider. About $80 worth of parts, and I've split maybe 30-35 cords with it.
Still a good splitter for the money, I suppose. Just ticks me off to have to fix something like that when it's hardly used.
 
Dipstick tube????
That is a new one to me. Never heard of one going "bad".

It's attached to the blower housing. When that cracked up and vibrated all over the place it wore almost thru the tube. Just another $7.
 
Well good news - it had the wrong spark plug. They changed that and started first pull.
Split about 1/2 cord. Went thru oak, apple and maple fine- even some real long pieces- bogs down doing gnarly stuff like the apple with a huge knot in it or splitting a T section. Got thru them with a couple of stalls.
 
Well good news - it had the wrong spark plug. They changed that and started first pull.
Split about 1/2 cord. Went thru oak, apple and maple fine- even some real long pieces- bogs down doing gnarly stuff like the apple with a huge knot in it or splitting a T section. Got thru them with a couple of stalls.

The engine should never stall. Relief valve in the hyd. system should divert flow back to tank before that happens. Something is still not right and if it's building enough pressure to stall the engine, either the engine is weak, or the relief valve is malfunctioning and you're seeing dangerously high pressures in the system. Insist on a new unit.
 
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