Seeking wisdom from seasoned Jacks on splitting cycles

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Rage_Perry

New Member
Dec 20, 2011
22
Central Iowa
First of all, I just want to say that I very much appreciate all of the combined years of experience and wisdom/knowledge that all the rest of you lumberjacks bring to the forum.

Here is my situation-

I am 34 and still have good arms and a decent back.

I have access to a lot of wood in my area from a few different sources.

I big log splitter have I none, but I do have a 6 & 12lb mauls, along with one of those little 8ton foot pump splitters that I picked up at a hardware store.

This weekend I plan on borrowing my neighbor's splitter to help me finally finish getting next winter's wood processed and stacked so that I can somewhat relax this summer.

My plan after this is to resume cutting in the fall [about 5-6 cords] when the leaves start falling. I originally planned on then just bringing home the rounds and letting them sit neatly stacked on pallets to sit that way through the fall and winter and then split/stack them next spring. My original thought was to either rent or borrow a log splitter at that time to just do it all at once over the course of 1 weekend.

The dilemma that I am facing is that #1, if I borrow my brother-in-law's splitter it is electric [25ton run on 220V] but I don't necessarily want to have to run the extension cord out of my stove outlet out into the back yard. #2, I really would rather not rent a splitter for the day at $80 and #3, I am still uneasy about borrowing my neighbor's just in light of the fact that if I break it, I don't have the $$$ to replace it. [I have also considered looking for a used on on Craig'sList but we'll see about that later].

ULTIMATELY, since I am still a young buck and sit behind a desk or driving all day for my job I need some exercise so I would rather just hand split all of it....but I want to be smart about it.

I have read on here that some woods are better manually split right after they are cut and others should season a bit first...... so my question is this- what about splitting it by hand in the winter when it is butt cold? Will it split easier with the moisture frozen?

Those of you who split by hand as your primary means- what cycle do you have for processing your wood?

ALSO- if you are doing it manually, what tools are you using? Sledge/wedge, mauls, splitting axes, etc? Do you use skinny or fat tools?
 
I don't know how much wisdom I will be able to put forth but I'll give it a shot.
Hopefully you already have a bit of wood split and stacked for this winter and you are just finishing up this weekend, if not, I,m not sure what you split this weekend will be very good for this coming winter. The good news is there are plenty of tricks to burning less than ideal wood, just use the search function here.

As for getting ahead for the future, It will benefit you to get 2013/2014 split and stacked ASAP. I think it is a matter of personal preference as to how you go about it. Some like to rent or borrow a splitter and get it all done in one week, others like to do a little day by day, different strokes.

Good luck
Whatever works best for you but get that stuff split and stacked ASAP.
 
When I split by hand, I used an 8 pound splitting maul . (Birch & spruce )
Birch & most wood split easy when first cut, so when hand splitting do it ASAP after cut into rounds.
Wet spruce, splits best when -10°f or colder. Dry it splits hard but a little better when cold.
I split allot in the winter , green wood splits easier when frozen.

Your method of letting the rounds sit thru the winter is done allot, I do it sometimes but have a hydraulic now.

Everybody has preferences in brand , handle & head type.

Great exercise, but hard on the back :)

Even if you borrow your BIL's splitter, wouldn't you have to repair or replace it if you broke it?
 
BV, most of what I am going to be splitting this weekend has been laying around in my yard for a few months already. I got a little over a full cord of giant pine this last weekend that had already been sitting around for a year in someone's open shed. It seemed like much of it was already ready to burn when I brought it home.

Even though I live in town, the wood stacks are located in an area that gets every breeze that blows from every direction.

I wouldn't mind working at things little by little through the year, but my job is busy and when I am home I have 4 kids under the age of 10 and they aren't really big enough yet to help me where it really counts.

BogyDave, when you say that most wood splits easy right after it is first cut, are you talking about living standing wood? Most of what I will be working with has already been cut and may have been down for anywhere from 1-12 months already.

This guy makes the work look so easy, but I have a feeling he's much larger in stature than I am-

 
Sounds like you might just want to split by hand and plug away a little at a time, an hour or two here and there. If you can cherry-pick the wood that you get, straight-grained rounds with no branches or crotches are going to be the easiest and fastest to split. Five or six cords is going to take you a while to get done, or take you a while to collect if you are going to rent a splitter. Like BV said, you should start getting 2013 stacked now unless it is all super fast-drying wood like Pine (Pine can be tough to split by hand.) Sounds like you have a good spot with wind for drying your stacks. You might have to stack some single-row to get it dry in time, until you can get a couple years ahead. If you can't be too picky about the wood you get you could save the tougher-splitting stuff off to the side and rent/borrow a splitter for that pile later...
 
i'll throw in another option here that i have used: i hated renting a splitter and having to split a whole year's worth as fast as possible while the meter was running. so instead, i would rent the splitter and get everything quartered. then it was much easier to hand split it from there. i get mostly big-a$$ rounds so the brutally hard work was getting them started. noodling and wedging them was my preferred method. but its all in the past now since i got my own splitter. it wasn't easy to swing it financially but now that i have it i'm REALLY glad. me or my son can go out there and split for 45 minutes and not even work up a sweat. i can do 30 minutes after dinner. if you have access to plentiful free wood, it pays for itself in no time.

OT
 
OK, I opted to borrow my neighbor's 20ton splitter. He's renting it to me for only $20/day!!! So I should be able to get everything that I have left in my yard split between today and tomorrow. I'll also offer to also mow his lawn or some other way of saying thank you. $40 for is much better than $80 for 1 day at the hardware store 15 miles away.

I will probably just start saving pop can money and eventually buy my own splitter one day. It is a lot easier....

In the mean time I kind of like Onetracker's idea of just busting up the big rounds and saving them for later when they dry a little and can be a little easier to work with. I kind of did that with what I could using my foot-pump splitter. I would crack them with that and then drive the final splits with the maul.
 
you might want to try the Fiskars maul- 4lb, 36 in handle. I'm not young and the back is not good, but I prefer it to my hydraulic splitter. Much faster, the lighter head makes you last longer and the handle length provides great momentum.Stays sharp longer, and they say the coating on it helps it carry through the wood. If I have a piece that doesn't pop in in 4-5 whacks, I toss it aside for the power splitter later. I do about 7-8 cords a year, 80% by hand.
 
Thanks Jim, but the question is still whether you split all your stuff green or do you let it sit and season a bit first?
 
I split green, asap. I get alot of oak. If I get something that doesn't pop, whether its knotty crotch or a type of tree that doesn't split easy I save it for the hydraulic. It doesn't matter if its aged or not with the hydraulic splitter. I picked up one of those Troy-Built splitters at Lowes for about $900. Its not a monster like those 32 ton jobs but it hasn't balked at anything in the 3 years I've had it.
 
Rage_Perry, we've handled a bit of wood over the years and we've split with single bit axe, double bit axe, splitting maul, sledge and wedge and hydraulic. The hydraulic has only been for about the last 20 years or so but the earlier years were all done by hand. I've split wood after it has been stacked and split wood when green. Split wood in mid-winter and also in early spring. Rarely in summer. Sometimes in fall. Overall, if I were still splitting by hand it would all get split as soon as it got cut. That is when is usually splits the easiest.

Good for you that you borrowed the splitter. Ours is also a 20 ton and it does everything we need to do. Shoot, I don't even run it at full speed and it splits plenty fast enough.
 
Thanks everybody!

Over the course of this weekend I now have everything split and I should be ready for this winter.

I will have to look into something like the Fiskars 4.5lb'er. I ideally want to be able to go out and cut and split at the same time so that my yard doesn't end up looking like this at the end of the season. If I can keep all my mess in the grove then I think that we all would be happier and have less work. IMG_7018.JPG

Everything else that is still in the yard is either rotten, bad and thick bark, way too knotty [even for the splitter] or too long & it wasn't worth it to me to hack 2" off the end; but now it all needs to be hauled away and the yard raked and then we'll be back to "normal."

The shed on the left is for our fire pit that is hiding behind the roof there. That just has long and big pieces that we'll use for when we have company or, like Sunday evening, we cooked hotdogs & brats out there while sitting on some rounds around the outside.

The middle stacks are all my "regular" spits and the pallet box to the right is for my shorts & uglies.

The fence is going to come down in a few weeks and I am going to hack that stump completely out and use that "mirrored" area next to my short & ugly box for my 2013/14 supply.
 
Jim, I think you might be referring to the X27 model? http://www2.fiskars.com/Products/Yard-and-Garden/Axes-and-Striking/X27-Splitting-Axe-36

I think that one day when I was at Walmart I saw a smaller model. I was surprised to see it there but I didn't think about it being for splitting. I will have to look again though.

I see that there is an X25 and an X27, the X25 being only 28" in length as opposed to your 36" model. The description seems to say that it is ideal for either the taller person OR for medium to extra-sized logs. Well, I guess I would probably need it for the extra-sized stuff since I don't fall into that "taller" category at my whopping 5'5".

Part of me kind of thinks that the power for extra-sized stuff might be overkill for what I would be doing, but I guess I would rather have too much power than not enough.
 
Perry you can do whatever you please but I tried one of the X27 Fiskars and was sadly disappointed with it. I could split better with my single bit ax than with that thing. Yet, some folks on this forum swear by them rather than swear at them. For what I see, it is just another gimmick that takes your dollars. You can save many dollars by using a splitting maul.
 
I prefer to get split and stacked asap, though that may mean six months. I don't see any benefit in letting the rounds sit, it just takes a while to get it done sometimes.

Try a Fiskars. I'm sure you'll be pleased. I 'tried' mine when I got it and wasn't impressed, but the more I use it, the more I like it. It does a good job of splitting, and the light weight helps at the end of the day. I'll use it on easy stuff rather than the hydraulic, if I'm in that kind of mood. I have the older super-splitting maul with the short handle. I'm 6'1" and get along okay with it, just took some getting used to. I'm sure you would be fine with the X25.
 
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