Chain Questions???

I make sure the chain on saw is sharp,then bring a new or freshly sharpened one along as backup.Rakers- if the saw eats on its own without pressure like it should they get left alone.Every 3-4 sharpenings I give them a light 2-3 strokes with small flat file,following original contours if possible.2 weeks ago I mustve went a tiny bit deep with the file on that 28" full skip chain when roughing out some cherry blocks - started to be a bit grabby & even stalled that 288XPW for a second.After 2-3 more cuts it was working fine again.Just lay that on the log & it just goes through it like buttah,even 18"+ Honey Locust or White Oak.

I own only one chain at a time, so naturally I take one chain to the woods. When that one wears out, then I'll buy another but not until then.

I have around a dozen chains, but I usually only take one to the jobsite per saw. That forces me to be extra careful when cutting, and if I REALLY wipe the chain out due to hitting something hidden in a tree (like the time when I hit railroad spikes in the middle of a trunk while bucking a huge ash tree) it gives me an excuse to go home and cool down a bit (cause it makes me REALLY MAD when I hit chit in a tree!)

bogydave said:

How many sharp chains do you take to the field when cutting?
When that happens, do you file down "all the teeth" to the length of the ones that require serious filing?
With out a tool, what are the signs that the rakers need filed down? (Chip size?)

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I only take one chain to the cut. It's an incentive to make the effort not to rock the chain.
Much of the wood that I cut is roadside waste with lots of sand and dirt on the logs. If the log has lots of dirt or sand on it, I will roll the log using the winch on the splitter to get a clean face to buck down, taking all of the cuts 80% through and will again roll the log so the sand is on the top. I then will complete each cut cutting up using the top of the bar cutting from the far side of the cut first. This throws the sand away from the cut. Downward cutting through sand or dirt pulls the dirt into the cut .
I like to file to equal heights.
On the rakers I like to leave them as high as possible so there is less chance of a kick back. I watch the chips that a sharp chain is making - big chips means the rakers are fine. When chips are becoming smaller, it is time to take the rakers down just a bit!

bogydave said:

How many sharp chains do you take to the field when cutting?

I make sure the one on the saw is sharp & take 2 ready to go spares.
If I've hit something, dulled the chain bad, that would take a while to sharpen so when that happens it's easier & faster to put on a new chain.
I hit something last time out on the right side & notice the cut going crooked.
First find what you hit if you can, (a small rock under some leaves in my case). Then a new chain, good to go.

Also
When that happens, do you file down "all the teeth" to the length of the ones that require serious filing?
Is that a good time to take it in & have it tuned up by a sharpening shop?

With out a tool, what are the signs that the rakers need filed down? (Chip size?)

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2 - one on the saw and one in the tool box

bogydave said:

With out a tool, what are the signs that the rakers need filed down?

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Dave, if you have to 'help' the saw through the wood by really pushing on the bar, then the rakers probably need taken down a little. If you take too much off of the rakers, it'll grab and stall the chain (like Thistle was saying) so just take enough off where the raker is just below the knife of the cutter......

I usually keep a spare in the truck just in case. On the relatively rare occasions when I really wipe a chain out, though, I usually just quit in disgust and go home. Some days you just shouldn't be cutting wood, is kind of my view.

Eric, we've probably all had days like those.

I'll put a chain on the saw and sharpen it with a file guide until it's either used up or stretched out of adjustment. Take a sharp file or 2 with and sharpen as necessary. If I hit something I'll spend the extra few minutes sharpening the chain while I cool down. Seems like you only hit things shortly after putting on a new chain (or at least I do). Went out a few weeks ago to start cleaning up a big sugar maple that had blown down. The trunk at the base was in the 30+ inch range, the tree broke off about 5 ft up. I needed to cut the stump off to get the rest of the tree down. Found a field wire fence that had grown into the tree years ago. This was unexpected as the tree was in the middle of the woods. Had about 2 hours of use on a brand new chain, fortunately I stopped as soon as I heard it hit, so it only damaged a few of the teeth. After a 20 minutes with the hand file, I was ready to go again. Since it only damaged a few of the teeth, I let the damaged teeth go with only a bit of sharpening taking off the gross damage and left getting them back to final shape for the next sharpening. The damage this time was not near as bad as the spikes I found ~20' up an elm from an old deer stand. That one almost made me throw out the chain.

I carry a oregon file guide for the rakers, it was cheap and seems to work well. Just file em down every 4th sharpening or so.

An elderly lady used to tell me she kept 3 sets of work clothes for her husband. One on him, one in the wash, and one clean set ready to go. I usually have at least 3 sharp chains in the saw case. I'm sure there's a couple more if I dig under the seat of my truck..... lol.

I've been told by more than one tree guy that some customers get a bit antsy if you're sharpening chain on site so they usually have a few chains for whatever saws they bring. Swap chains quick and sharpen back at the shop.

I take a spare in case I ding my chain on a rock or something. As long as I don't do anything stupid, I can cut enough to fill my truck without needing to sharpen or replace the chain.

I usually have an old one left in the case as a backup....but would rather take the time to sharpen up the one on the saw.....gives me a couple of minutes break to have a cold beverage while sharpening

Thistle said:

I make sure the chain on saw is sharp,then bring a new or freshly sharpened one along as backup.Rakers- if the saw eats on its own without pressure like it should they get left alone.Every 3-4 sharpenings I give them a light 2-3 strokes with small flat file,following original contours if possible.2 weeks ago I mustve went a tiny bit deep with the file on that 28" full skip chain when roughing out some cherry blocks - started to be a bit grabby & even stalled that 288XPW for a second.After 2-3 more cuts it was working fine again.Just lay that on the log & it just goes through it like buttah,even 18"+ Honey Locust or White Oak.

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Im not very experienced with chain saws yet, but i have learned why real men do not use those stupid dremel chain saw bits to sharpen chains (doing it by hand with a good set of files is 100x better) until im lucky enough to have spare chains i simply keep my set of files in the glovebox at all times I had a chance to grab bunches of black locust from when the old Duxbury bridge was re-built and this stuff was like cutting steel (my file set was a lifesaver!)

Just depends on what I am doing. If its a clean tree one chain is all I need. Rotten tree I might bring a 1/2 dozen or more.

smokinj said:

Just depends on what I am doing. If its a clean tree one chain is all I need. Rotten tree I might bring a 1/2 dozen or more.

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Any tree requiring half a dozen chains or more to get done is a "rotten" tree to me. In fact I usually have even better choice words for it.

MasterMech said:

Any tree requiring half a dozen chains or more to get done is a "rotten" tree to me. In fact I usually have even better choice words for it.

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Me too. Broke down a big _ss cotton wood for the neighbor, Had my trusty JD to make the runs and it was a 1/2 dozen or more. He used a skid loader piled it and its going to be a 4th of July hoe down!

Jags said:

I have been in the woods and got pinched. Drop the power head off of the bar and bolt on the spare. Cut loose.

(Good to see you back, Eric)

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Thanks, Jags. I know the routine on a pinched bar. Think about using a wedge but then decide I don't what to take the time to dig it out of my pocket and insert it into the cut. Pinch the bar and spend the next half hour trying to get it free. I usually go for the axe when that happens. It doesn't save me any time, but it does give me an opportunity to "think about what I did" while chopping my saw free. I think it has some therapeutic value.

I used to carry 2 wedges,file/handle & scrench in back pockets but this goes in the field with me every time now.Quick release nylon belt,room for extra chain and/or tape measure if needed.

2 chains for 2 saws. And a tool box of other junk.

Jags said:

No-no Thistle, your doing it all wrong. If you don't have to fumble and hunt for that stuff....it just ain't right.

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See,I'm finally getting smarter in my advanced age. I 'got by' for yrs wasting time looking for stuff,not having proper gear & it made both working in the woods & my regular construction gig a 'job' & more effort instead of FUN like its turning into.

Now am slowly going for the 'work smarter,not harder' mantra. If only I could win LOTTO then I'd write out a check for that Cat 65HP skidsteer w/rubber tracks,grapple bucket & extra winch.Then I'd REALLY be happy....