Stuck Wheel hub...help

Make sure there isn't some type of e-clip( Spring steel clip) in there a lot of them have that, and with all the crud almost impossible to see .

I just bought an '06 chevy. not soon after i got it home the bearing went. Bought the pickup in Va. kinda freaky just to put a wrench on it and everything came apart. Not used to that.

MEDIC1 said:

Air hammer with flat chisel worked like a charm...all that pounding...damn. No clip just stuck on there. Boy is it fighting to the end...the heat shield got a bit mangled so I had to rearrange it a bit. I'm ready to install the new bearing after I finish this cold beer. I fear I might be taking it all apart again soon though because I noticed a small tear in the CV boot with a small amount of grease coming out. Might need to replace it.

Steve

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cover boot with silicone

I'm assuming your replacing the hub assemblies, not just the bearings? They can be rusted in there good. My service manual for my Canyon says to just pull 'em out of the knuckle. Yeah, ok.

Silicone may not stick for long. They make replacement boots that are in halves, so you don't have to pull everything apart.

This is what I did for my Ford (not my pic) But it worked like a charm.

mikefrommaine said:

This is what I did for my Ford (not my pic) But it worked like a charm.

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That's the way. Betcha that damn puller costs more than the parts to do the job. You Ford guys are no strangers to hub bearing replacements either.

I only had to replace the needle bearing for the stub axle - only 8 bucks. Sure beat having to replace the whole hub $$$$

A cheap $25 two jaw puller worked for me.

had to replace them on the Dodge...fun job

MEDIC1 said:

Air hammer with flat chisel worked like a charm...all that pounding...damn. No clip just stuck on there. Boy is it fighting to the end...the heat shield got a bit mangled so I had to rearrange it a bit. I'm ready to install the new bearing after I finish this cold beer. I fear I might be taking it all apart again soon though because I noticed a small tear in the CV boot with a small amount of grease coming out. Might need to replace it.

Steve

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Check into replacing the axle if you need a new CV boot. Sometimes the whole axle assembly is cheaper and less time consuming than rebooting an axle. For example my car I spent $120 a side for new axles and avoided the whole rebooting thing since all the boots were almost 20 years old and starting to split.

Be prepared for sticker shock on the resistor. The one for my Cherokee was $45.00!

heat seeker said:

Be prepared for sticker shock on the resistor. The one for my Cherokee was $45.00!

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Thats cheap. Not too many car parts can be had for $45 or less.

just sayin.

True, but I'm still stuck in the 60's, where a part like that would be around $5! And it really is only a couple of pieces of resistor wire and some terminals.

Tomorrow I find out how much an alternator is - after 196,000 miles this one gave out. Bearings are okay, probably the brushes are shot. Guess I can't complain, the car has been great all these years, and still runs strong.

Back on topic, I sort of doubt if cars made today will last that long. Too much fancy electronics, for one thing. Wanna bet cars will become obsolete after a few years, since the electronic replacement parts won't be available?

heat seeker said:

Wanna bet cars will become obsolete after a few years, since the electronic replacement parts won't be available?

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Fancy electronics have been around for quite some time. They're usually available for a premium. Depends on demand.

I've already run across a seat belt retractor not being available for a car thats less then 10 years old.

Imo seat belts and safety equipment should be available for at least 15 years.

Look for digital instrument clusters for 80's Caddies and particularly early 90's S-10 Trucks and Blazers. That market is alive and well. FWIW I was able to buy a brand-new cluster for my 1991 GMC Sonoma right from a GM dealer but that was over 10 years ago.

Got the alternator. Rebuilt, $118, not too bad. The core charge is $66, though! They must really want the core back. Guy at the store said certain Chevy calipers cost about $10, but the core charge is $50 because of the demand and supply. Looks like I have to remove the battery to get the alternator out, and assuming all the bolts come free, it doesn't look like a bad job at all. I'm waiting until it cools down this evening to do the job. Right now it's 83 degrees and climbing.

MEDIC1 said:

Hey anyone put a DIY lift kit on their truck? Been a dream of mine for a while

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I put a 3" body lift and a 2" suspesion lift with oversized tires on this old Burb. I do turn a wrench for a living.

The body lift was installed at home on a Sat. afternoon with a floor jack and air tools.