New guy looking for stove advice.

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

kilahcup

New Member
Jun 20, 2012
13
Hi - I am new to the forum and pretty new to wood burning stoves in general. I recently bought an old house - built in 1922 - and my wife and I are in the process of essentially gutting it. The house is approximately 1400 sq ft., 3 bdr ranch and was EXTREMELY energy inefficient. During the demo process we have found numerous reasons why, the fireplace being one of many.

We are talking about replacing the existing gas fireplace with a woodburning stove. We hated the configuration of the existing fireplace. It was WAY too big, took up too much room in a small house, my wife hated the brick, and as it turns out, a lot of the infrastructure behind the brick had been damaged by fire anyway, so it's all going to go. Our current thought process is to have the existing old chimney lined, and then replace the old fireplace with a woodburning stove, cover over the mess properly, make it look nice, and be done with it. I have attached a photo of the living room as it looked just before demo started. If I can later I will post pics of the fireplace now that all the brick has been pulled out so you can see the damage done.

We anticipate using the stove to supplement our gas heat and reduce our needs during peak winter months. I don't know if the stove would be burning all day every day, but I anticipate using it a lot. (I have had traditional fireplaces all my life and am no stranger to splitting wood.)

We looked briefly at stoves, but the truth is, I don't know anything about them - who makes a good stove, how they should be installed, what do they cost, etc. My wife and I have our eye on a used stove that is for sale locally, but I would like to do some research on it before I do anything. It is a
Sierra Hearthstove Classic Turbo-Burn Model 2000T. Since it is an old stove (I am guessing this from the company history) I assume it to be non-catalytic.

If anyone feels like offering input/opinions - on Sierra stoves, on the configuration, on my plans for the house, anything - I would appreciate the help. I would like to do this right.

Thanks very much.
 

Attachments

  • P3310013.jpg
    P3310013.jpg
    43.3 KB · Views: 288
Welcome.

First thing, before even discussing the stove options, is the existing hearth. From the picture, it appears that you would need to do some construction in front of the current existing fireplace to extend the hearth. there is a requirement for floor protection ~ 16 or so inches in front of the stove door no matter if it is a wood insert, or free standing stove...

From the picture, it looks as though the area currently in front of the fireplace is limited, so, you are going to have a lot to consider, construction and floor plan, room flow etc. ie putting the stove someplace other than the current fireplace location.

I would suggest drawing and posting a layout of your ranch, type of chimney if the gas insert was retro fitted into an existing masonry fireplace etc.

Lots of pictures will help get some helpful advice.
 
There was a member here that had that Sierra Turbo Burn model. He upgraded to an NC-30. That Sierra is a non EPA stove. Pass on it. Go for an EPA rated stove. IIRC, Board member Hogwildz helped him install a chimney liner for his new stove though. PM Hogwildz and he'll point you in the right direction.

Madison gave some good advice and asked some good questions. Also, what is your budget? Are you planning on doing this work yourself?
 
Pass on the Sierra - pre EPA. Nothing wrong with the used market, but I wouldn't even consider a stove that is not EPA approved just from the reduction in wood consumption.

Posting a layout of the home is a good idea. If you are doing a full renovation you will want to look at ALL options, including the BEST placement for the stove. It is not always where it was previously at.

A few more expectations from you will be helpful as well. Do you want overnight burns? Do you want the stove to handle 80% of your heat or 100% (just throwing numbers here). Budget? Remember, it is not uncommon for the stove pipe to be a significant portion of the overall install costs. Pipe can add anywhere from 30-50% of the install costs, depending on the stove you select.

Consider clearance to combustible. Stoves vary. Floor protection/hearth? Stoves vary.

Keep talking and we will keep answering. And welcome to the forum.
 
Pipe can add anywhere from 30-50% of the install costs...

Oh, how badly I want to be in that club today.

Very little in that room looks 1920's to me. Likely redone some time later. Will be interesting to see what you find as you peel back thru the layers.
 
You might also mention whether you'll need to buy all of your firewood or whether you can cut and/or gather locally.
 
Welcome the the Hearth kilahcup.
Foremost, if you plan to burn wood, go get it right now. Don't even finish reading this, just go get about 4-5 cord.....now.
We'll wait.
If you have the means, even if you have to postpone some of the reno work to pay for it, get an EPA stove. You'll be happier (presuming you can get some dry firewood), and you'll use much less wood every year. That translates to much less work and more time for other stuff. Like the reno.:cool:
I've got an older stove (pre-EPA) and can't wait until I'm able to get a new stove. Knowing what I know now, I should have done that when we first moved here.
Ditto all of the above comments.
 
Quite a few here intended on supplementing with the stove, and have ended up using it as the only source of heat. Something to.think about when selecting a stove. That'll save you from having to upgrade after you're hooked...
 
OK... I actually read these and took notes, so let me try to address some questions now, and then I'll post pictures and a layout later (layout might come tonight...)

First off... I live in Wyckoff, NJ. Northeastern corner of the state, very close to NY state line. Winters CAN be cold, but then again, I can also have winters like this past one, in which I was spray painting outside in January with no problems (it was 60+ degrees for a long stretch.)

Second... budget. Budget is expandable but low. We're trying to keep expenses to a minimum wherever possible, hence poking around the used market (owner only wants $300 for the stove, which seemed like a really good price...). The budget is not, however, so small that I am going to do stupid things or cut corners. I'm either going to do this right, or I'm not gonna do it. I am going to try to do as much work by myself as possible, but when I get into things that I feel would be unsafe if done wrong, I am 100% willing to consult and/or pay a professional. I am lucky in that my dad is a retired P.E., so he is a useful resource of information about structural matters.

Side note of potential interest: I may not be in this house terribly long. My wife's job was initially going to move her to Bridgewater NJ and we were looking at houses in the Allentown PA area. May still happen, but it's on the backburner right now. 2-3 years though, and I might be moving on. It's also entirely possible I may live here for the next 20 years.

Next: Firewood. I am among the lucky few who has virtually unlimited access to free firewood. I have a big piece of property in rural PA that is mostly woods, and every year I get ample ice storm blowdowns, lightning strikes, sometimes the things just flat out fall down on their own if the ground is wet enough. I *still* haven't finished cutting up the stuff that Hurricane Irene left me. On top of that, there are several trees in my yard here in NJ that are coming down. Unfortunately, a lot of them are spruce, and I hear varying opinions on whether or not this can/should be burned inside. Since I have an outside fireplace though, I'll be keeping the spruce as well. My parents also just had a couple of decent maples taken down, so I'll take that too. Translation: I'll be up to my eyeballs in firewood.

Firewood is something I don't consider myself to be especially knowledgable about though. Dry vs. wet, how long it takes to get there, how best to store it, etc. So, feel free to inform me.

Now, about my living room. Basically rectangular. Front door of the house is on the short wall (you can see it in the photos I posted - it's the crappy white one with the mailbox slot). On the far short wall (also visible in some pictures) you can see where there used to be a window, and we will be putting a window back in there again. The approximate dimensions are 25 feet wide by 13 deep. The fireplace is on the long side. The picture you see above was taken before I started working. It doesn't look ANYTHING like that anymore. That brick hearth and wall are looong gone. We've taken the whole thing down to the studs, and the ceiling out as well, as we are likely going to be vaulting the ceiling in that part of the room. Skylights, and a ceiling fan, are in the plans as well. The flooring is coming out as well (hardwood) and we'll likely pull up the original subflooring from 1922 and replace it with plywood so we can level the floor out correctly. The hardwood may go back in if we can salvage it, but some kind of hardwood floor will be in there.

The gas insert was placed into an existing brick/masonry fireplace. There seems to have been a fire in the house that started in the fireplace. Removing the brick wall revealed scorched woodwork behind it - all the studs are scorched if not flat out burned, and the whole mess was replaced in an extremely shoddy fashion. This is where pictures are really going to have to tell the tale. A big part of the reason we started seriously talking about a WBS was this fire damage - it seems far less likely to repeat itself if the fire is properly contained in a stove. The strange thing about this fire damage is that you would think the brick work and the gas insert was done as a result of the fire... but, the backs of many of the bricks that were near the old fireplace are scorched, so I can't really tell when the brickwork reno was done. I do know the room has been redone several times, because I took down at least 4 layers of sheetrock from the walls and ceiling. There was a construction permit filed for the house in 1990 that said "repair of fire damage", so there is no question that some part of the house burned.

We would like to get the WBS placed as far back into the existing masonry chimney as possible to save space in the living room. Since the existing brick hearth is now gone, the fireplace is suspended about 2 feet off the floor, and I'm hoping to pull out the masonry underneath the gas insert, get it down level to the floor, and place the WBS there, inside the existing cavity as much as possible. The exhaust pipe as envisioned would simply go straight up the existing brick flue. I guess it will probably have to be lined, but I know zero about that. There is combustible wood (obviously) near the fireplace and I don't know what the requirements are for clearance, but if I can maintain the existing masonry chimney as much as possible, maybe that will reduce my needed clearance? Since the floor is getting ripped up, putting in proper floor protection certainly isn't going to be a problem, and any ideas on that would be welcome. I kinda envisioned some nice tile, but I'm not sure if that qualifies. Again, pictures will tell this tale way better than I can.

I don't necessarily envision overnight burns, but I guess the ability to do so wouldn't kill me. My only concern about this is as follows: My house in PA has a WBS, and it is quite effective. However, if you load the stove up to get it burning long into the night, it produces so much heat that even in the winter the house can actually get so warm that it becomes impossible to sleep. I don't want to duplicate that here in this house. The PA house is a much smaller house though, I'd say under 1000 sq ft.

I'll find some photos of the living room post destruction and post them with this.

In the picture where you can see where I started removing the brick wall next to the window, you can see the beginnings of the blackened fire damage in the ceiling and wall above the fireplace insert. The close up of the brick hearth being taken out shows you the width of the old hearth (and the height); it was basically about two standard bricks wide, and seven standard bricks high.


IMGP9789.jpg

IMGP9790.jpgIMGP9791.jpgIMGP9793.jpgIMGP9794.jpgP5200015.jpg
 
Firewood should season for at least a year. Get all the Cherry, Ash, and Silver Maple that you can right now (read: Yesterday).

Your wood supply should be a few yrs out. Most try to stay 2-3 yrs ahead. Depending on space, availability, and budget (if u buy). Oak needs 2-3 yrs to season. So stay away. Or if you get it... Let it sit.. For Years!

As for the stove. An EPA model is best. Either a Cat (need VERY DRY WOOD!!) or Secondary burn unit.

Englander makes some solid stoves. The 13-NC is a very nice stove, but there Englander 30-NC is a very nice stove and quite popular here. I have one and went through my 1st season this past Winter. Holy Chit its a heater.

There are times it can go for $600 from Home Depot. Thats a Hell of a deal.....

Search 30-NC or Englander 30-NC, 13-NC, or 17-VL. All good units. Cheap and reliable. IMHO
 
Joful - that setup you have in your avatar, with the doors in front of the stove... me likey.
 
Is it crazy to ask if anyone can ID the stove in this photo on the extreme right?

View attachment 69068


Could be a Lopi Liberty on a pedestal, can't really tell from that pic. In any case, the door hinges are on the correct side of the appliance. ;lol I'll tell ya what, though, for someone who doesn't know whether he'll be in the house for 2 years or 20 years, you sure are ripping into it. Good luck. At this point I'd say that picking a wood burning appliance would be pretty far down on my list of things to worry about. :rolleyes:

ETA: Looks like either double-wall 6" flue pipe or 8" flue pipe. Exactly which one it is makes a great big difference in identifying the stove.
 
Age eventually cures that.
 
Lopi Liberty is a step top model? The stove in the photo does not appear to be... Another Lopi product... Possibly. The handle is on the wrong side ;) For Lopi's!...!....!

Regency?? Maybe............ Have you done any searches?
 
Yup, yer right, it ain't a Liberty. ;em
 
Our Lopi Endeavor is hinged on the right,handle on the left. The Liberty and Endeavor are both step top stoves I think. Check the Lopi web site. Some are built without the step and IIRC all are hinged on the right.
Tom
 
Might be a PE....?
 
Note that when someone said that firewood needs to dry for a year or more, it must first be split and stacked with good air flow. Standing dead or lying on the ground, unsplit, or just piled up in a heap, is not counted in drying time.

If your last wood burning stove wasn't a newer EPA model, this won't make sense. The newer models need dry wood for efficient operation and to prevent creosote buildup.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DexterDay
It looks like a Lopi, but it's not. After seeing kilahcup's photo last night, I went thru the Lopi site, and there's no match. I do know I've seen that stove recently though. I think one of the steel box cat stove brands recommended to me in another thread. No time to check myself at the moment, but if you're interested, check these manufacturers:

Buck
Country Flame
Kuma Sequoia
Appalachian
High Valley
Sierra


Will try to find some pic's of the setup with the doors. Seeing as you're local, I'm sure you've seen a similar setup many times. I have two such fireplaces in my current house, and most of my family's past houses had at least one similar fireplace.
 
Random thoughts . . .

Like others I would not recommend a pre-EPA stove . . . simply because unlike some folks my life does not center around cutting, splitting and stacking firewood (although some of my friends may think it does) and burning less wood in an EPA stove due to its efficiency is the main reason I didn't even consider a pre-EPA stove. Of course there are also other benefits like being better for the environment (it's just plain cool to see no smoke coming from the chimney when the fire is running full bore) and the spectacular view of the fire.

Cost for most folks is always a factor. Just remember, as mentioned, the woodstove is just part of the expense. Getting a Class A (metal) chimney or lining the existing masonry chimney will be a sigificant expense. If you have even just a few carpentry skills you can save some money when it comes to building your hearth . . . and I suspect you are pretty handy based on your pics and posts.

Cheap stove vs. inexpensive stove: A cheap stove is one that you buy because it seems like a very good deal . . . until you realize it is broken, chows through wood, has been used hard and is an eye sore or is just plain unsafe. An inexpensive stove is one that may or may not be used, but in either case will serve you well for a long time if you treat it right, will be safe and will provide you with the heat you need. Buying a stove based solely on the price does not make sense . . . since you may end up going stove shopping twice before you're all said and done. It's like buying a car . . . you can buy used or new. In either case you have to get what you can afford and what suits your needs and desires . . . and if you go used you should probably know or bring along someone that can tell if the car/stove has had a hard life and is about to give up the ghost or not. And like cars . . . don't always think more money = better. There are some stoves that may not look as pretty, but are pretty darn reliable and well liked here. Englanders, Napoleons and Regencys may not have the same look of the soapstone stoves and fancy cast iron, but they heat many a member's home just as well. That said . . . I did mention buying a stove for both your needs and desires . . . be sure to get the one that will heat your home -- not too large and not too small . . . and be sure to get one that you and your spouse like . . . it will be out there for everyone to see. Sometimes it is better to spend a few extra dollars and be happier from the get go since this is going to take up some space in your living space and not be hidden away in the basement or utility room like a gas furnace or oil boiler.

Brands . . . As I said there are a lot of choices ranging from steel to cast iron to soapstone. There are not too many brands I would caution a person to avoid . . . honestly . . . the biggest thing is to choose the stove that is sized to your home. Figure out the size of your home, look at the stoves you like that fit that size . . . and then go one size larger. Far more people make the mistake of getting a stove sized too small for their home than a stove sized too large.

Used stoves: Unless you really know what to look for in terms of abuse vs. normal use, I would be hesitant to go used . . . then again I'm generally a cautious person. I know more now than I did when I started and would feel comfortable now looking at used stoves, but when I started out I wouldn't have been able to tell if the stove was owned by someone's grandmother who only used it on Sundays after church to warm up her tea kettle or if the owner of the stove figured that when the stove was glowing red that it was time to cool it down a bit.

Firewood: Having access to firewood is good. However, as others have mentioned (and I am sure Backwoods Savage would mention if it he was here) . . . these stoves really need well seasoned wood. Generally, your wood should be cut, split and stacked for 8-12 months (longer is often better) before tossing it in the stove. You can use wood that is semi-seasoned . . . but starting the fire will be more difficult, keeping the fire going longer may be more of a challenge, you will not get the full potential from the wood and you may gunk up your stove's glass and chimney a lot easier. Think of it this way . . . your car probably wouldn't run quite so well if there was a bunch of water in the gasoline . . . same thing applies to wood stoves. This said, you may run across folks that will say "Bah" "P'shaw . . . I've cut wood in September and burned it in October" -- there is a big, big difference between running a pre-EPA stove and an EPA stove . . . and honestly . . .the folks cutting one week and burning the next . . . these are the folks with the smoke belching out the chimney and quite often the ones who will be calling 911 at some point during the winter.

Spruce and softwood: Us Easterners have been lied to for a long time . . . well maybe "lied" is too strong a word. Truth is, pine, spruce, hemlock, fir, etc. can all be used in a woodstove with no ill effects . . . if the wood is properly seasoned. If you attempt to burn this wood before it is seasoned it can gunk up a chimney . . . just like burning unseasoned maple, elm, birch, ash, etc. can gunk up a chimney. Also, this wood may run a bit hot . . . but the woodstoves can take it. The only real drawback that I see is that the softwoods tend to not coal up or last as long as the hardwoods . . . but if you're around during the day or evening . . . or you just want to build a quick, hot fire to take out the chill in the Fall or Spring . . .well these are fantastic woods. Incidentally, the Western folks burn a whole lot of softwoods . . . and they're still alive and kicking.
 
More on Firewood: Get more wood than you think you need. Many first time users under-estimate their need and think the woodpile is larger and will last longer than it will . . . partly due to inexperience in running the stove as there is a learning curve, partly due to those first year stacks being semi-seasoned and partly due to the fact that so many people just don't realize that while EPA stoves burn less wood, they're not magical . . . they do need fuel to produce heat. More is always better than less. We tend to get a few folks here who come February are lamenting how low their wood pile is . . . no one complains that they have "left over" wood come June since this is just even better wood come next Fall.

Storing the wood: There are a lot of ideas on this . . . covered vs. uncovered, sun vs. wind, wood shed vs. stacks. Truthfully, if I was starting out (well actually I did start out and did just this) and I was in a rush to get my wood as well seasoned as I could in as short a span of time I would stack the wood on pallets (off the ground) or in a similar manner, stack in a single row and place the wood in a sunny and windy spot. While I do not personally cover the top of my piles now, I think I would top cover them (no covering the sides) if I wanted to keep this wood as dry as possible for this Fall. Generally, most folks like to see their wood cut, split and stacked for a year prior to burning . . . some of us like it even dryer.

Wet vs. green (unseasoned): It's a minor point I suppose, but wet wood does not always mean green or unseasoned wood in my vocabulary. I can have wood that is seasoned (cut, split and stacked for a year or so -- to get really technical we could define seasoned wood by the moisture content and use a moisture meter, but I'm not that high tech), but wet from a passing shower . . . this wood,once the surface moisture dries off is fine for use. Green or unseasoned wood is wood that has not dried out enough from the inside . . . you can test this with a moisture meter . . . or like many newbies you'll discover this fact when the wood will not easily light or stay lit and the temps in the stove are not very hot.

Insulation: I may have missed it . . . but are you insulating the home or is there adequate insulation. One of the first bits of advice I received here was to insulate the home before installing the stove . . . keep the heat you generate . . . otherwise that "cheap" heat from the woodstove is just being wasted to the outdoors.

Hearths: These are wicked easy to build and you can save money when you build them yourselves. As to what to build them out of . . . it depends on the stove make and model. Some stoves only require ember protection which means you could throw down a bunch of sheet metal, tile, slab of stone, etc. . . . other makes and models require specific insulation value which may mean using an air space or special insulation or layers of cement board to meet the installation requirements before you put down the tile, stone, etc.

Fear of overheating . . . It can happen. Truthfully, it happens maybe once or twice a year now with me . . . generally because I am an idiot and either load my stove too full, load it with the good stuff when I should be using my "junk" wood or I reload too often. If you can learn to avoid these issues AND have a stove properly sized to your home you will not have to spend all winter with the windows open.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DexterDay
Status
Not open for further replies.