Leaky Tank Fitting Welds

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maple1

Minister of Fire
Sep 15, 2011
11,082
Nova Scotia
Just thought I'd pass on my experience real quick.

My welder just left my place after coming out to fix 3 welds (out of 11) that had leaks. He had one of his guys (who is certified) do them the first time, as he was really busy (they are an ASME shop). One of the welds was a tiny pinhole on a small hole that he drilled in the wrong place by mistake then had to weld over. That one was on him. But the other two (an elbow & a plug) were due to me somehow getting hold of cast iron fittings. I picked them out of the black iron bins at the supplier (they sell a lot of stuff to the trades), and they even seemed to have the proper UL BI markings on them (I think). They looked everything like BI, but they were cast. He could show me the difference touching with his grinder on a couple of good ones. He also took responsibility for that, in that they're supposed to double check the fittings before they weld them on to make sure they are what they're supposed to be - just that his guy didn't take that extra step due to squeezing me in when they could & the busy-ness. Everything worked out in the end, I now have solid tanks and we're all good - but I'd advise to limit the welding to the absolute minimum required, and triple check that the fittings you buy are what they seem to be. I can't describe how to tell the difference, but you can with a grinder & the way they spark. That doesn't help in a store, but if they turn out to be cast, you could likely take them back if checked before welded. All fittings I got are made in China, and they seem to have the same markings - but there are small differences in them if you look real close, like in the size & fonts of the markings, & their orientations.
 
Thanks Maple, I've found the Chinese BI (and galv. for that matter) to be thinner in all areas. Always thought they were good, until I went to the plumbing supplier wharehouse and bought the WARD USA fittings. The WARD fittings are much heavier and the FPT area is almost twice as thick. No worries about that extra turn in the end to get things lined up, no split fittings.

TS
 
Thanks Maple, I've found the Chinese BI (and galv. for that matter) to be thinner in all areas. Always thought they were good, until I went to the plumbing supplier wharehouse and bought the WARD USA fittings. The WARD fittings are much heavier and the FPT area is almost twice as thick. No worries about that extra turn in the end to get things lined up, no split fittings.

TS


Thanks for the heads up.

I'm planning on adding 6 connections to a 250 tank I bought. My plan is to weld 6" long nipples into the tank instead if FIP connections.. This will put all the threaded connections outside the insulation, and allow me to use steel nipples.

With a FIP connection you need to start out with a nipple anyways, eliminate one threaded connection with a nipple welded in.
 
Thanks for the heads up.

I'm planning on adding 6 connections to a 250 tank I bought. My plan is to weld 6" long nipples into the tank instead if FIP connections.. This will put all the threaded connections outside the insulation, and allow me to use steel nipples.

With a FIP connection you need to start out with a nipple anyways, eliminate one threaded connection with a nipple welded in.

Maybe that's the way I should have gone. My thinking at the time was a fitting is usually thicker, and most of them also have an extra kind of shoulder on them at the mating surface - so there would be more to weld to and better chances of getting a good weld.
 
Maybe that's the way I should have gone. My thinking at the time was a fitting is usually thicker, and most of them also have an extra kind of shoulder on them at the mating surface - so there would be more to weld to and better chances of getting a good weld.

I would also think this true.

TS
 
Glad it worked out. The welder I used furnished the fittings for my 1000 gal pressurized storage. Also did some of the best welds I've ever seen. Even said no need to check the welds for leaks. There were none. His pro job is welding on 3000 psi lines at power plants.
 
I welded nipples on mine. Works great. I was a little worried when I plumbed them up that I might twist them off but they held fine with no leaks. A agree that the weldolots have a lot more meat to weld to. tank 3.jpg
 
I haven't done this sort of work in the US where most of you are, but I suspect things are the same...
I either use black pipe nipples, which are mild steel, or sometimes stainless nipples. Theoretically, welding stainless to mild steel will cause corrosion, but in practice i find less problems, as corrosive failure is usually inside the threaded fittings, not the weld or the tank. take apart a 320 stainless threaded pipe 5 years later, and it looks the same as the day it went together. Take apart a black steel one, and it breaks off.
Otherwise I use mild steel or stainless female threaded couplings [if I want internal threads]. I buy these at welding supply or specialty plumbing outlets. And really, any welder should see the difference between iron and steel immediately, three different ways.
I'm no certified pressure vessel welding dude, I just did a lot of work on old barges [a LOT of work] and made and modified a lot of tanks over the years.
As I said somewhere else, tiny water leaks in thick steel tanks will self-seal in a few days. No promises if someone welded in an iron fitting though.
 
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