Bucking up a maple taken down by strong winds, Advise Please

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kwikrp

Feeling the Heat
Oct 21, 2008
299
SE Mass
I have a Maple in my yard that was knocked over by the wind. The trunk at the widest is probably 5 foot across. the tree is bent. There are 2 truncks which are arch shaped and putting pressure on eachother. I bucked up the smaller logs. But the 2 larger remaining trunks are under tremndous pressure. I was able to cut a section maybe 5 foot long at the end of the trunk (towards the top). The end popped like a "Barbers Chair" I think thats what the call it. Well the rest is under maybe more pressure and when I try I am pinching my saw blade. Any tactics or advise ?? I tried to put any under cut so when I bring the blade top down it may relieve pressure but it is really so tight that the blade keeps getting pinched! Thanks for looking and any experience and advise would be appreciated.
 
Just to echo Scotty, pictures would probably be necessary to give good advice. I was cutting today at a farm where trees were dropped randomly by loggers, and there were a lot of "tension" spots where I knew if I cut it I would probably get my head taken off when it popped up.

Try and get some pictures from different angles if you can. I think those type of situations are some of the most dangerous to cut in, because it can all happen so fast once it breaks loose and goes who knows where.
 
Do you have a way to move the tree? I'm thinking maybe pulling it a bit to a different angle might alleviate some of the pressure. Hard to say without seeing pics, as others have said, but that is what popped into my head. Also, if there's any concern, I always like to have some help. An extra set of eyes and an extra saw can go a long way to helping out. Good luck!
 
The last load I brought home was an oak in similar condition, be very careful when cutting those tension areas. I hadvsomeblimbs that were bent under pressure that snapped back 4-5 feet when cut. Help from a friend would be wise. Also making multiple cuts to relieve the pressure can help.
 
As Scott stated, we can not advise on this without knowing more about it and pictures might help. Pressure is there but from what or where? We don't know so can not advise.
 
I like to work from the top down on the big trees. Whittle it down slow & in small pieces, less chance of bad stuff happening.
But like said, pictures help us see better the issues you are facing. ;)
 
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some photos of fallen tree
maple1.JPG
maple1.JPGmaple2.JPGmaple3.JPGmaple4.JPG
 
may have to be rotated sorry
 
The pictures make me dizzy, I can't really tell whats going on in the pictures. ;lol

Like Dave I like to work from the top down in most cases. Some times wedges help along with plunge cutting into the tree and leave connective wood at the top or bottom to prevent the binding. Once you get the majority of the cut done you can quickly cut the connecting wood and you're good to go.
 
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sorry for ignorance but what is a plunge cut ?? I have tried under cutting first then top cut but still pinching blade
 
sorry for ignorance but what is a plunge cut ?? I have tried under cutting first then top cut but still pinching blade
If bar is pinching on top cut,,,,, make top cut first then under cut .
 
Like bogy and rdust... work top down. It's a mess and a PITA to be working in the branches like that, but it's the only safe way I know to do that. Get as much wood and weight as you can get safely removed, and then stand back to plan your next move. Careful where you cut, and have someone watching you, in case things go badly. If you get all the "safe" stuff cleared away, and there's still no obvious way to safely tackle the rest, then it's time to call a pro. No amount of saved money is worth getting seriously hurt or killed.
 
I will back up Lee - Top cut first, then finish with an undercut. I just went through this with a 55" silver maple.

Please be aware that you are dealing with a bunch of weight. Basically, stored energy. Stay cautious, my friend.
 
If it were me I wood take that Muffy Maple off the stump with a tounge and grove cut and eliminate alot of unknown pressure right outta the gate. But thats me.
Working from the top as mentioned is the best approach for the unexperienced along with pounding a wedge in behind a cut may eliminate some pinched bars.
 
Not picking on you but if you do use a wedge use a plastic one. Dont laugh, I have seen it done with a steel splitting wedge and boy its hard on a chain.
 
I use a plastic wedge on all big stuff. Fits in the back pocket and you will never need another saw to bail you out. Helps keep the logs free as well. They have just a hint of air between them when they hit the ground. Easy to roll them out of the way. Second on top down. No other choice for me. Once most of the small branches are out of the way, envisioning where the torque is stored becomes easier. Take your time.
 
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